Additional Oil Changes - Worth It?

[Guest Southerner]

I was wondering whether it’s really worth the effort (not much, I know) and cost of doing a mid-year engine oil change on my X. The 600 mile service was carried out in late April at, erm, 600 miles and currently the mileage is 2,300.

Of course there won’t be another oil change until April next year under the normal schedule, and obviously it won’t do any harm, but with modern engines and oils, is it really worth spending circa £50 (oil and filter) to do this?

Not normally considered this before with previous bikes, but I plan to keep this one a good few years or so.

Opinion will be divided, but interested all the same to here your thoughts.

[Guest Southerner]

'hear' your thoughts, I mean....

[dandemann8 776]

£50 wow where do you shop, just done mine at 2500 miles at acost of £34....

[Guest GBH]

8,000 miles or a year is fine using a good quality oil like Castrol power 1 10-30. After 6-8,000 miles change to Power 1 racing.

 

Doing it any more frequently is just wasting money IMHO

[Guest bonekicker]

John I am convinced that my oil and filter were not changed at the 6oo miles service,because we it came back the oil was still dirty,this stayed on my mine so at 4000 I changed both the oil and filter myself, have done 6000 miles to date and the oil still looks like new (convincing me even more that it was not changed) Is the next service at 8000 miles? I have forgot, but when I have to take bike in for the warranty service I am taking a sample of oil and marking the filter, and if they don't change it them this time I am not paying

Edited September 10, 2014 by bonekicker

[bazza 3,629]

Its not a high revving engine so not sure if its even worth putting in Fully or Semi synthetic! I  have a feeling that most of these "must have a service" items are just to keep the so called mechanics in work! My VW is 18,000 services -using synth oil.

i know oil is supposed to absorb water -hence an annual change even if the engine isn't used - but not sure how realistic that is either!

[Guest robson]

I don't think so it's worthy, I don't do it even with my cars and ncx engine is a car engine isn't it?

Today's good oil parameters are lasting long time. If anything to change more often then required

then I would say change oil filter.

[chris 357]

It's up to you. If you want to be extra cautious then change more frequently but it isn't likely to make a big difference.

 

The service schedule is defined based on some pretty extensive testing - and the engineers usually err on the side of caution.

[bikerbampi 542]

I agree with Chris and would not increase frequency of changes especially whilst warranty is still applicable, otherwise if the worst happens to the engine it could give them a way out.

[Rocker66 34,375]

I don't think so it's worthy, I don't do it even with my cars and ncx engine is a car engine isn't it?

Today's good oil parameters are lasting long time. If anything to change more often then required

then I would say change oil filter.

No the NC is not a car engine. It has now been well documented that the idea that it is half a Jazz engine came about by the comments of a Japanese engineer regarding the fact that it has some Jazz technology being mistranslated..

I never change the oil without changing the filter. To my mind putting new oil through a dirty filter is like washing up in dirty water. I also stick to the scheduled change periods. Oil and filters are cheaper than engines

[Tex 36,816]

There are some common parts in both the NC range and Jazz, con rods etc (there is an exhaustive list on an American forum). This makes perfect sense and doubtless contributes to the 'affordable' price of the model.

[Guest robson]

I never change the oil without changing the filter. To my mind putting new oil through a dirty filter is like washing up in dirty water. I also stick to the scheduled change periods. Oil and filters are cheaper than engines

 

you misunderstood, I meant if I had to change something out of schedule I'd change oil filter alone, not the oil which should be fine especially if it's full synthetic.

 

p.s.

so the ncx engine is not jazz engine cut in half? indeed I couldn't find any cutting signs  

[Guest cantyke]

I'm thinking of changing the oil and possibly the filter in my NC just before the Canadian winter sets in. The bike will be unused for four to five months and I don't want the engine sitting in used oil, which I'm told can corrode the engine. Dumb question: can you use a regular torque wrench somehow to tighten an oil filter to the right spec or do you need a special tool?

[Rocker66 34,375]

you misunderstood, I meant if I had to change something out of schedule I'd change oil filter alone, not the oil which should be fine especially if it's full synthetic.

 

p.s.

so the ncx engine is not jazz engine cut in half? indeed I couldn't find any cutting signs

Still see no point. I would always change both

[usabikes 440]

Hi Doughy,

It seems to depend on the oil in the engine at the mo. If you're using a mineral then if its a 10-40 it has already degraded to 10-30. If using 10-30 mineral its already degraded to 10-23(ish - 20-25% DROP IN 1,OOO MILES ANYWAY). Even semi and full synthetic oil is not what its cracked up to be, you really have to pay top dollar to know you're getting proper Ester/PAO synthetic. Heck, its your baby - I wouldn't think twice about changing the oil and possibly the filter too, although the filter is probably fine.

 

Good advice I got on here leads me to believe we can use a full synthetic from the go. Financially embarassed when doing my last oil change I used a mineral 15-50, but it won't be in there for long and I will never use it again (0-40 from now on). The viscosity degradation after 8,000 miles means it'll well and truly have turned into straight 15W by then, how could a person knowingly do that to their lovely NC? (OK, maybe if its an X I can concede a lack of emotional attachment).

 

Hope this helps

[Guest bonekicker]

cantyke you don't need a torque wrench for oil filter, warm engine,drain engine oil,remove old filter,it may be tight,let drip for a while, clean face on engine, smear some new oil on 'O' ring and hand tight oil filter, refill engine with new oil,check for leaks, check levels.  

[Guest Southerner]

 

£50 wow where do you shop, just done mine at 2500 miles at acost of £34....

Duncan - £11.50 for a Honda filter, plus either £39.99 for Castrol 10/30 Power 1 Racing or £45 for Putoline 10/30 Syntec 4 Plus, all from a couple of local main stealers.

Where would you shop?

[Guest Southerner]

 

John I am convinced that my oil and filter were not changed at the 6oo miles service,because we it came back the oil was still dirty,this stayed on my mine so at 4000 I changed both the oil and filter myself, have done 6000 miles to date and the oil still looks like new (convincing me even more that it was not changed) Is the next service at 8000 miles? I have forgot, but when I have to take bike in for the warranty service I am taking a sample of oil and marking the filter, and if they don't change it them this time I am not paying

Michael - a new filter would be obvious, I wouldn't see the point of marking it.

What you could do, however, is take a photo of the position of the oil drain bolt. Then compare it with it's position when you get the bike back. Works for me with that sort of thing.

[Guest Southerner]

 

8,000 miles or a year is fine using a good quality oil like Castrol power 1 10-30. After 6-8,000 miles change to Power 1 racing.

 

Doing it any more frequently is just wasting money IMHO

 

George - I didn't know that there was a 'Power 1' and a 'Power 1 Racing'.

Power 1 Racing was put in mine at the 600 mile service. I meets the spec.

[Guest Southerner]

 

It's up to you. If you want to be extra cautious then change more frequently but it isn't likely to make a big difference.

 

The service schedule is defined based on some pretty extensive testing - and the engineers usually err on the side of caution.

 

I know what you mean Chris and completely agree with you. I will most likely do this mid year change just on this occassion to get rid of any other crud floating around inside after the break in period.

[Guest Southerner]

 

I'm thinking of changing the oil and possibly the filter in my NC just before the Canadian winter sets in. The bike will be unused for four to five months and I don't want the engine sitting in used oil, which I'm told can corrode the engine. Dumb question: can you use a regular torque wrench somehow to tighten an oil filter to the right spec or do you need a special tool?

 

James - You can buy a special tool for this but I've always tightened oil filters 'firmly' by hand and had no subsequent problems/leaks. Don't forget to smear some fresh oil around the seal and maybe drop a small amount into the filter before you fit it - can prevent the first few seconds of a dry start.

[Guest Southerner]

 

(OK, maybe if its an X I can concede a lack of emotional attachment).

 

Croz! - Bloody cheek - LOL...!

[Guest Southerner]

Thanks for all your replies.

I'll be doing the mid year oil change in early/mid October and using either the Castrol or Putoline options. A couple of guys I work with who are seriously techy with bikes (engine stripdowns and rebuilds) swear by Putoline so I may well go for that option.

Yes, it's most likely not necessary but can do no harm and may even flush out some more crud subsequent to the 600 mile service. A fresh new bath for the motor over the winter.

Also an excuse to tinker a bit, which is difficult to do when your vehicles are fairly new...!

Cheers all.

[dandemann8 776]

Duncan - £11.50 for a Honda filter, plus either £39.99 for Castrol 10/30 Power 1 Racing or £45 for Putoline 10/30 Syntec 4 Plus, all from a couple of local main stealers.Where would you shop?

Honda filter £10 local dealer, Castrol Edge F/S £25 for 4 litres at my local auto shop ( granted it was on offer).

[Guest Carl_L]

James - You can buy a special tool for this but I've always tightened oil filters 'firmly' by hand and had no subsequent problems/leaks. Don't forget to smear some fresh oil around the seal and maybe drop a small amount into the filter before you fit it - can prevent the first few seconds of a dry start.

I'd agree that you're unlikely to get any problems from hand-tightening but, because cap-wrenches are so cheap & they make removing the old filter so easy, I wouldn't tackle an oil change without getting the correct wrench 1st - needs to be the correct size & flute number, whatever that is for the NC?

I've always gotten into this habit because I've had/have bikes where there was no other choice - my Guzzi, for example, has the filter recessed well into the engine + you only need to hear one tale of a filter coming off mid-ride & dumping the oil to make you super-cautious (though, TBH, I'm convinced the tale(s) I've heard were caused by muppets not checking properly & leaving the old seal behind, resulting in insufficient thread connection on the new filter).

This is just my 2p & I'm no mechanic, just a keen amateur. If I could have one word with my younger self, though, it would be to buy (or share-buy with friends/family) a full set from the outset - oil filter manufacturers have a habit of changing the spec so, on more than one occasion, I've had to buy a wrench with x flutes to remove the old filter + one with y flutes to torque up the new one. They're out to get us they are! I know they are!