Jump to content
fred_jb

Fitting DC socket, USB charger, and voltmeter in frunk

Recommended Posts

fred_jb

Finally got around to installing these items this week, and thought it might be of some interest to others.

 

I bought a panel on that auction site housing a 2 port USB charger, a digital voltmeter, and a standard DC socket.  I chose this particular one because it has slightly smaller width dimensions for the mounting panel than some of the others, and I wanted to make sure it was not too wide for the recess in the battery lid in the frunk.  As it is it just fits, though the mounting bolts have to go through a slightly curved part of the recess which was a bit tricky.  

 

Once I had the mounting bolts holes I temporarily bolted the panel onto the back of the lid to use as a template to mark out the three large holes.  I didn't have the right size hole cutter so drilled out a set of holes inside the perimeter of each marked circle, then broke out the centre and used a large curved file to smooth out the aperture.  This worked surprisingly well.

 

I mounted the panel inside the recess using 20mm plastic spacers and M5 bolts.  The spacers needed chamfering on one side to sit nicely on the curved surface at the edge of the recess in the battery cover panel. The spacers are needed to bring the panel forward enough to ensure adequate clearance at the back - there is not much spare room there.

 

I soldered the connections rather than using connectors to get a lower profile at the back and to get a lower resistance connection to make the volt meter reading as accurate as possible.  The voltmeter doesn't protrude through the recess so I have used some sealant on that and around the other two sockets, and over the positive connections for insulation (not shown in the pictures). 

 

I've wired up the panel to a two way waterproof connector to make it removable, and connected it up to the battery negative and to a fused tap in the accessories fuse position in the relay and fuse panel (I had already fitted the accessories circuit relay and fuse).  I have used this to power this panel rather than the accessories harness because it is much more directly routed and will therefore drop minimal voltage in the wiring.

 

The tap is a useful device which I have used in the past on my last bike. It takes the place of a fuse, and then provides a socket for the original fuse and one for an additional circuit.  You can see it in the first picture.   Note that this needs to be the low profile mini fuse type.  It just about fits under the fuse panel cover but needs a slot cutting in the side of the fuse panel cover to allow the cable to come out of the side.

 

All three items are powered off a switched 12V supply but I will be fitting another 12V socket in the standard position in the side of the frunck, and this will be wired directly to the battery through a fuse.   I will use this unswitched socket with my Optimate, via the 12V socket adapter cable they sell, to trickle charge the battery.  I will also be able to fit a USB charger in it for occasions when I might want to leave a device charging in the frunk when the bike is switched off.

 

Below are a couple of pictures.

 

Fred

 

A6K-3047129-1823-XL.jpg

 

A6K-3047129-1829-L.jpg

Edited by fred_jb
  • Like 9

Share this post


Link to post
dukie

Fred that looks great and so neat, its amazing what we do to our bikes........ well done looks like i have something on my shopping list, do you have a link please..... :ahappy: :ahappy:

Share this post


Link to post
bonekicker

Fred a good neat job as always-- but watch out anyone trying this-- it is a tight fit behind this panel. :ermm:

Share this post


Link to post
bikerbampi

Wow Fred neat job.

Share this post


Link to post
Robmdavies

Very smart indeed.

Share this post


Link to post
fred_jb

Thanks to all for the positive comments.

 

BTW - it seems I actually used 15mm long spacers not 20mm as stated in the post, but 20mm would give a little more clearance at the back, because as Michael (bonekicker) points out, there is not much space between the back of the panel and the stuff behind like the air filter cover.  I put mine as far back as possible, but the recess is deep enough to move them forward a bit.

 

Dukie:  we are not allowed to post links to fleabay items here, but if you want a full parts list PM with your email and I will send you the list.

 

Fred

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Dunnster

That sir, is genius.

Share this post


Link to post
Trev

Fred, looks great and thanks for the detailed 'how to' guide. :thumbsup: 

I fitted a combined USB/12v socket last year but direct to the battery without thinking of the very slight constant drain, result flat battery if bike not used for a few weeks. Ripped that out and have gone for battery to charge iphone (all I wanted the power supply for) and separate connector for Optimate but would love to do something along the lines you've done, is it ok if I PM you for the link? 

Share this post


Link to post
fred_jb

Fred, looks great and thanks for the detailed 'how to' guide. :thumbsup:

I fitted a combined USB/12v socket last year but direct to the battery without thinking of the very slight constant drain, result flat battery if bike not used for a few weeks. Ripped that out and have gone for battery to charge iphone (all I wanted the power supply for) and separate connector for Optimate but would love to do something along the lines you've done, is it ok if I PM you for the link? 

Yes - no problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Radarman

Fred, very smart installation.

I was thinking to fit a DC socket and/or USB port in this place as well. The only drawback, as you have already pointed out, is limited depth between battery lid and battery itself.

However I will install just DC + USB sockets without voltmeter.

Edited by Radarman

Share this post


Link to post
DB1965

Cracking Fred well done mate, love a farkle. Fred is thier any chance Fred of sending me or posting the links for the voltmeter and panel you used this would be great also the connector you used fore the switch :D  

Edited by DB1965

Share this post


Link to post
fred_jb

Fred, very smart installation.

I was thinking to fit a DC socket and/or USB port in this place as well. The only drawback, as you have already pointed out, is limited depth between battery lid and battery itself.

However I will install just DC + USB sockets without voltmeter.

The toolkit recess in the battery compartment cover seems to be just above the battery, so I think it is the airbox lid which is the real problem.  However, if you get the USB ports and DC sockets that come with their own little mounting panel, you can use spacers between this and the bottom of the tool recess to stop the sockets sticking out too far behind when mounted.   One thing to be aware of if mounting just two is that there is more clearance at either end than in the middle so I found that having the shallow voltmeter in the middle and the others at either end made best use of the space available.   If you just have two you may need to get separate ones each with their own mounting panel in order to fit one at either end of the recess.

 

Fred

Edited by fred_jb
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
fred_jb

Cracking Fred well done mate, love a farkle. Fred is thier any chance Fred of sending me or posting the links for the voltmeter and panel you used this would be great also the connector you used fore the switch :D  

Yes - no problem.  just PM me with an email address I can send the links to.

 

If anyone else wants details of the bits used, please PM me with your email address and I will email you a pdf document with links you can click on to take you to the fleabay items needed.

 

As I explained to another member via email, the waterproof connectors are particularly tricky to assemble, so I have included some tips on assembling these in my document.  However, if you don't have much experience with this sort of thing it might just be easier to use a piece of terminal block with screw connectors to join the cables so that you can remove the lid if needed. I don't think this location is likely to get wet anyway, so the waterproof connectors are probably overkill.

 

The other difficult bit is fitting the fuse tap in the fuse box as you need to cut a slot in the side of the fuse box cover to allow the wire to exit to the left side of the bike.   The alternative is to wire into the accessories sub-harness if you have one.  I wanted mine separate for a more direct connection, and to not use up any of the current capacity of the accessories connector, as I want this for other things like heated grips and additional lights.

 

Fred

 

PS: you also need to have the accessories relay and fuse kit fitted as you will use this relay and fuse slot to provide a switched supply via the fuse tap.

Edited by fred_jb
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
RussB644

Nice job Fred....If I message you would you share parts list etc?......Russ

Share this post


Link to post
Radarman

  If you just have two you may need to get separate ones each with their own mounting panel in order to fit one at either end of the recess.

 

Fred,

 

That's what I probably will do. I'm not bothered with the panel and sockets to be together as sold on that auction site. I will fit DC socket on one side and USB port on the other.

Share this post


Link to post
fred_jb

Fred,

 

That's what I probably will do. I'm not bothered with the panel and sockets to be together as sold on that auction site. I will fit DC socket on one side and USB port on the other.

If you fit the sockets directly in the battery compartment panel recess, then I'm not sure, but I don't think you will have enough space behind to take the full length of the socket and USB port.

 

That is why I got them with a separate mounting panel.  By spacing this panel away from the floor of the toolkit recess you end up with only half or less of the socket protruding through into the battery compartment. I think you can get the sockets as separate items but still with their own individual square mounting panel - I think this may be your best bet if you want them in the same place as mine.

 

Otherwise why not fit both in the side of the frunk near where the Honda socket fits, or perhaps one each side?  Should be fairly easy to do apart from having to get the side panels off.

 

Fred

Share this post


Link to post
Trev

Thanks Fred, you're a gent

Share this post


Link to post
ThomasMc

Hi Fred,

 

Thanks for taking the time to document the parts list as well as the work. Much more informative that just posting pic's of 'just added this to my bike' 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
bazza

Fred as an electrical ignoramus can you tell me -simply - how I can tell which is live and neutral on one of those £8 compressors for blowing up tyres.I have a multi meter but no idea what to set it on. it's got a buzzer and a dial with lots of horseshoes and Vs on it!

i managed to loose the plug in end and know I will get it wrong and either blow a fuse or kill it if its the wrong way around!

Share this post


Link to post
fred_jb

Fred as an electrical ignoramus can you tell me -simply - how I can tell which is live and neutral on one of those £8 compressors for blowing up tyres.I have a multi meter but no idea what to set it on. it's got a buzzer and a dial with lots of horseshoes and Vs on it!

i managed to loose the plug in end and know I will get it wrong and either blow a fuse or kill it if its the wrong way around!

Am trying to PM you with a few suggestions.   Didn't seem to work first time but will try again.

 

Fred

 

PS: I was asuming this is a 12V powered compressor, but if mains powered please ignore my PM

Edited by fred_jb

Share this post


Link to post
robin

Red is live Black is earth!

 

If it's a Fag lighter plug Live is in the centre.

 

If you wire it the wrong way it will ether not work or go backwards....

Edited by robin

Share this post


Link to post
Normsthename

Nice Job Fred! :D

Andy

Share this post


Link to post
MikeBike

Well done Fred. Looks very neat. Does this mean that you are not going to be making your harness extension to the battery location? I was thinking of doing the same, but now unsure...

Share this post


Link to post
fred_jb

Nice Job Fred! :D

Andy

Thanks Andy.

 

Are you still racking up the miles?   I've done very little lately - getting a bit worried that I will still be on the Dunlops come summer!

 

Fred

Share this post


Link to post

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×