Adjusting chain slack - question.

[Guest miguelsanchez666]

I have noticed  slack on my chain and want to adjust it. Went through owner's manual and didn't quite get one thing.

Instruction says "Except NC750X" Does it mean instructions do not apply to NC750X? or they meant NC750X don't have wheel speed sensor and pulser ring? Please see photo below.

 

 

It's my first bike so everything is pretty new for me.  I have found helpful tutorial on adjusting chain slack for NC700 and I'm sure I can manage it.  I'm going to do it without using chain alignment tool, just the marks on the swingarm + measuring lenght of treads. Unless you tell me it's not the best idea

Just want to make sure before I crack on with it.

Also can anybody give me any tip how much pressure should I put on the chain when measuring slack.

Thanks for any advise.

 

Tom

[Paul2129 73]

Hi Tom. Firstly, I'm fairly sure I'm right to say that chains 'wear' rather than 'stretch', so I guess that it's worth saying that if you don't like adjusting chains, or paying for their replacements, then really good lubrication, cleaning and care is important, maybe an automatic oiler if you do a lot of miles.

If always used just the marks on the swing arm to align the wheel, I always started out with it square, and made equal adjustments, doing each side alternately by the same amount. You're supposed to do this with weight on the wheel, to allow the suspension and arch that the swing arm travels to take up the slack to the correct degree. I do it on the centre stand, then check it with the bike on its wheels.

Also, chains naturally seem to wear unevenly, so there are tighter and slacker spots. Always make sure that you set your chain so that it's correct at the tightest spot, so wheel the bike around and make multiple checks before you think you've finished. I'd apply gentle pressure on the chain to check the tension. If you're learning, take it to the place you bought it, or your MOT station and ask them for a quick opinion. In my opinion, "slightly slacker" is better than "slightly too tight" I ruined a good set of wheel bearings with a chain that was too tight..... And in my opinion, you can usually "see" if a chain is too slack, at least before it's likely to cause you a problem, but hey, check it anyway

Lube it when it's hot after a ride....... And don't forget to tighten the axle nuts after adjustment

Next bike...... Buy a shaft drive

Just kidding

[Guest miguelsanchez666]

Hi Tom. Firstly, I'm fairly sure I'm right to say that chains 'wear' rather than 'stretch', so I guess that it's worth saying that if you don't like adjusting chains, or paying for their replacements, then really good lubrication, cleaning and care is important, maybe an automatic oiler if you do a lot of miles.

If always used just the marks on the swing arm to align the wheel, I always started out with it square, and made equal adjustments, doing each side alternately by the same amount. You're supposed to do this with weight on the wheel, to allow the suspension and arch that the swing arm travels to take up the slack to the correct degree. I do it on the centre stand, then check it with the bike on its wheels.

Also, chains naturally seem to wear unevenly, so there are tighter and slacker spots. Always make sure that you set your chain so that it's correct at the tightest spot, so wheel the bike around and make multiple checks before you think you've finished. I'd apply gentle pressure on the chain to check the tension. If you're learning, take it to the place you bought it, or your MOT station and ask them for a quick opinion. In my opinion, "slightly slacker" is better than "slightly too tight" I ruined a good set of wheel bearings with a chain that was too tight..... And in my opinion, you can usually "see" if a chain is too slack, at least before it's likely to cause you a problem, but hey, check it anyway

Lube it when it's hot after a ride....... And don't forget to tighten the axle nuts after adjustment

Next bike...... Buy a shaft drive

Just kidding

Thanks for your advice Paul. I'm hand on tools kind of person so I would rather do it myself and learn "how to" rather than taking it to the garage. I will definitely read everything about it before I have a go. And don't worry I won't forget to tighten axle nuts with my new shiny torque wrench

Edited March 25, 2015 by miguelsanchez666

[Guest efhell]

I do not know if anyone else as done this with the adjustment. In my younger days I was in engineering and did a bit of Torque work. I found out once I had torqued, I would mark the nut and bolt with the old reliable centre pop mark. With the NC it was very easy. the large nuts and bolts are soft enough to mark quite well. I tend to put a few miles in and it is not much of a job to adjust the chain with this method out in the wilds. The standard tool kit is more than adequate.  I have also ground two small marks on the standard screw driver showing Max and Min tension. My oiler is a small plastic container filled with gear oil  (as recommended by Honda) I tend to use this oil every 500miles. Of course you need a centre stand for this.

[sandalfarm 2,764]

It can be awkward sometimes the chain seems to tighten up even just tightening the nuts up does this. If you can find a mug, sorry I mean a willing volunteer to sit on the bike off the stand it helps

[Guest bonekicker]

Tom have you got the workshop manual for the 700 from this forum? don't take to much notice of the except NC750X--- the chain is adjusted the very same way--and yes we have too learn how to do our own maintenance--torque wrench and thread lock liquid always.

 

I have found that by only going by the indicator marks when adjusting is not always spot on--we were taught to measure the tyre from each side of swing arm and equal it and to put a straight edge from from wheel to back and double check if it in line.

 

Have a proper look in workshop manual not just owners manual 

[embee 7,288]

When I got my NC I checked carefully the wheel alignment and found that the markings were near enough spot on, and several other NC owners commented the same at the time.

 

I'm now happy to just use the marks, though as a second check I always spin the wheel (on centre stand) and check that the chain doesn't run preferentially to one side all the time. It will go to one side, but if you then slide it across the clearance to the other side of the sprocket and spin the wheel again it will often as not stay that side, so no preference. If it always goes one side then it suggests the wheel is out of line.

 

I'd suggest caution if checking the gaps to the swingarm since they are not necessarily symmetrical and the gaps may well be intended to be different.

 

Straight edges the length of a bike are seldom straight! Taut string is reliable but tricky to get just right, you have to allow for the different tyre sections and work to the sides of the tyres being parallel but not "in line". It's easy to be 5mm out with a taut string. There's no really easy way to be 100% sure using everyday tools and equipment, so if in doubt I'd suggest just use the markings and then check by eye, this is one of the things where a centre stand makes life so much easier.

[Rocker66 34,375]

If you Google " chain alignment tool" you will find them listed from just over a tenner upwards

[Guest miguelsanchez666]

Thanks a lot for all advices chaps! It's been really helpful. I did measure chain slack again at work with proper ruler and it seems to be between recommended 30 to 40mm so all good. To be sure I had quick look at other NC750 parked there and both of them had definitely bigger slack.

 

Cheers Micheal for suggesting to download service manual. What a great source of information!!!

[Mike5100 2,061]

Somewhere on this forum I posted about some experiments I did with a piece of wood and a vernier micrometer so that I could measure the chain slack very precisely.  In the end I found a very easy way of getting exactly the right amount of slack.  If it's on the sidestand (no-one sitting on the bike though) and you apply several sharp upwards movements with your finger to the midpoint of the chain it should just fail to hit the underside of the swing arm.  If you put it on the centre stand and do the same, it just touches and you get a distinct clacking sound.

Mike

[Tigertail 64]

Somewhere on this forum I posted about some experiments I did with a piece of wood and a vernier micrometer so that I could measure the chain slack very precisely.  In the end I found a very easy way of getting exactly the right amount of slack.  If it's on the sidestand (no-one sitting on the bike though) and you apply several sharp upwards movements with your finger to the midpoint of the chain it should just fail to hit the underside of the swing arm.  If you put it on the centre stand and do the same, it just touches and you get a distinct clacking sound.

Mike

Exactly what I do each week while lubing the chain.  Its not precise but its close enough for a quick weekly check, of course every few months or so I check it with a ruler just to be sure....  On the centre stand if two links can touch the underside of the swing-arm I know its time to adjust.  Funnily enough I've used this technique with my last two Honda's too, perhaps its a Honda thing!

 

For alignment I'm agreeing with embee.  Spin the wheel and watch the chain riding the sprockets from behind, if its out of alignment its fairly obvious.

Edited March 26, 2015 by Tigertail

[Rev Ken 6,327]

So long as you turn the adjusting nuts the same number of 'flats', and making sure the wheel is pulled against the adjusters, then wheel alignment is maintained.

[Guest John D]

To get the slack right when I shut the throttle i can feel a bit of slack, some one said he wrecked his  wheel bearing

this I don't  worry me, it the gearbox one's DO  worry me  wreck them with a over tight chain can wreck the gear box 

now that will cost  you big time,I use the lines on the arm's to get them in line first , then use the nuts to get the chain

right 

That's how I do it, then  I go to a back street garage to look at my work

John D