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Power verses Weight

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Big Shot

I have a de-cat pipe, K&N filter and aftermarket can and would say it is about half the weight of the original. I have a tail tidy so more weight reduced. I have also modified my foot rests and hangers - I have removed the castings behind the riders foot rests so as to lose the pillion foot rests, that has reduced the weight some more (and looks better). I do not keep anything in the frunk and do not carry my tool kit , so my NC is about as lean as you can get without removing the bodywork. the only "addition" is a pair of hand guards. I am very pleased with the performance and look of it :D

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aquaboy

I suspect the frame is quite heavy to accommodate all three models. As there are only side tubes   around the engine these must

be stiff to stop twist. I know the engine block completes the missing lower loop but the head stock looks well supported with additional

gussets etc.  The engine being long stroke needs a robust bottom end and strangely the fuel tanks steel. It never feels a problem because its low down, I was surprised how easy they are to push and man handle.

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pjm

I look back with rose tinted glasses at my 1974 Yamaha RD350. Looking up the specification   it produced 39bhp and weighed 160kgs. The NC manual weighs 220kgs and produces 54bhp. So the RD weighed 4.10kg per bhp and the NC weighs 4.07kg per bhp. I always remember the RD as a lightweight bike that was a dream to ride. Looking at the figures the power to weight ratio is as good as dammit identical to the NC. I would never have thought it. My current Yamaha Tricity weighs 15kgs per bhp so you can imagine what that feels like 😄😄

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Andy m

An old thread but an interesting one.

 

Comments:

 

I think you need the laden weight. A 220Kg NC with a 75 kg rider and nothing else is 5.46 Kg/Hp (horrible mixed values I know). An NC with a 100Kg rider and 20 Kg of **** in the helmet locker is at 6.29,  so 15% worse off. The RD with a 65kg teenager wearing jeans is 5.76, so pretty close. Pies are a factor.

 

I think you need to look at weight reduction as a percentage to see if it's worth it to anyone not racing. 8Kg off your battery of exhaust is 3% against the laden state. While it is true that small numbers add up to big ones, I won't be drilling holes in my touring tooth brush's handle.

 

Power isn't the full story. The NC can be hampered by a rider who won't change up, the RD by a rider who won't stand the noise at 6000 rpm. Be in the wrong gear for the torque curve and HP will help but note entirely cover things.

 

I know people who sell air filters. None of them would blow £50 on a K&N unless they'd also bought the FI chip and exhaust as a bare minimum. An over oiled K&N is actually more restrictive that a new paper filter. You can put a wing on the back of a 1-litre Fiesta and play the stereo as loud as you like, but it'll still do like a 1-litre Fiesta with a lot of weight. 

 

Weight is weight alone when stationary. No amount of power makes a dropped GS any easier to pick up. Adding tin boxes and filling them with **** only makes things worse and if you have space you it is human nature to fill it. Shape however is a factor. The worst bike I have ever tried to pick off the floor though is not said Bavarian Behemoth, it was the Old Boy's 400 Burgervan. Nothing to get hold of and the way they sit of the bodywork with the tyres off the deck turns them into really rubbish sledges.

 

Rubbish from Touratech and M&P was a past hobby of mine. Mostly the weight I don't recall being an issue, even en-masse (sorry I'll get my coat). The reason I've mostly given up is that it turns into a clutter of stuff that never really works properly after the first winter. I was never bad enough to buy stick on Carbon Fibre though.

 

Generally I think Honda get is right. Seats, mirrors and mudguards they could do with adding a bit of weight on though.

 

Andy

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