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fred_jb

Sub-harness extension and other electrical mods

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fred_jb

I said I would post some pictures of the wiring I've been doing when I commented on fitting an indicator warning gadget in Russ's recent thread, so there are a selection below.

 

The changes I've made are as follows:

 

I've fitted an electronic fusebox/power distribution box into left hand fairing compartment and connected it to the battery with a fused 20A cable.   I added a earth distribution busbar to this to provide additional points for wiring up the connections of accessories as the box only comes with one as standard.  I'm using this to power my satnav, heated grips, and auxiliary lights in Acerbis handguards (when I get them fitted).  I have also used this to power the USB and 12V sockets I fitted in the frunk which has has allowed me to tidy up the wiring by removing the fuse tap I had originally used to power these.

 

The other thing I have done is extend the socket used for the sub-harness onto a cable which goes into the right fairing compartment, so that the sub-harness can now be located in that space which is more convenient for connecting up additional accessories, than it was under the LH side panel.  I've added a brake light feed into this cable which is missing from this socket on the NC750 though was present on the NC700.

 

I've also modified the Honda sub-harness cable to include the other three connections, namely L and R indicator feeds and brake light feed.  I've removed the existing connections from the single four way connector  (you can remove pins if you use a very small flat bladed screwdriver to depress the locking latches) and used it instead for L and R indicator, brake, and earth.   I've then put a matching four way connector on my indicator warning gadget to connect it to the modified sub-harness and sited it in the right hand fairing compartment.

 

I re-used the switched 12V and earth from the 4 way connector to add another three way accessories connector, and left the unswitched 12 supply which was originally on the 4 way connector on a flying lead in case I ever have need of it.

 

The final mod was to fit a 12V socket in the standard Honda location on the left side of the frunk but connect this up directly to the battery with a 15A fused lead.  The purpose of this is to provide a charging point for my Optimate to plug in to, and also provide a high power source for running my mini tyre pump.

 

Fred

 

 

 

Power distribution box with 20A fused supply cable and connector for my USB and 12V power sockets fitted in the battery cover panel - the flying lead on this goes to the sub-harness to provide a switched 12v supply which activates the relay in the box:

 

 

A6K-3047129-2172-XL.jpg

 

15A fused cable for high power frunk 12V socket/charging point:

 

A6K-3047129-2173-XL.jpg

 

 

Modified sub-harness:

 

A6K-3047129-2175-XL.jpg

 

 

Re-purposed 4 way connector with earth plus the three connections added to the sub-harness, namely brake light and L and R indicators.  Used to connect indicator warning gadget:

 

A6K-3047129-2178-XL.jpg

 

 

 

Extension cable attached to sub-harness socket.  Additional brake light feed is the yellow cable:

 

A6K-3047129-2166-XL.jpg

 

 

Connectors covered with heat shrink sleeving and tucked behind frame:

 

A6K-3047129-2181-XL.jpg

 

 

 

Routing of extension cable:

 

A6K-3047129-2182-XL.jpg

 

A6K-3047129-2315-XL.jpg

 

 

Location of power distribution box in LH fairing compartment, velcroed to side panel.   Easily accessible by removing top fairing panel which is only held on with three easily accessible fastenings:

 

A6K-3047129-2319-X2.jpg

 

 

Modified sub-harness on end of extension cable, located in RH fairing compartment.  The indicator warning gadget is connected to this and located in this space.

 

A6K-3047129-2317-XL.jpg

 

 

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RussB644

As ever some neat jobs there then Fred, I've used that hidden little area up inside the nearside fairing like you as it seems well protected from the elements there, although my arrangement is no where near as tidy as yours!   :no: .

Edited by RussB644
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MikeBike

Wow, thanks fred! Well thought out, and thanks for sharing and making the write up. I'm also interested in making a sub-harness extension lead - you said before about 70cm long - can you share the wire colours/sizes and the source for the white plug & socket.

 

Did you need the specialised Japanese tools (JIT?) for screws?

How was getting the side panels off?

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Radarman

Proper job done Fred, as usual :thumbsup:

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fred_jb

Wow, thanks fred! Well thought out, and thanks for sharing and making the write up. I'm also interested in making a sub-harness extension lead - you said before about 70cm long - can you share the wire colours/sizes and the source for the white plug & socket.

 

Did you need the specialised Japanese tools (JIT?) for screws?

How was getting the side panels off?

Hi Mike,

 

Actually I used the full 1m length of cable following a late decision to route it across to the RH compartment instead of having everything in the LH one. It is just multicore DC cable, but I'll look for the emails regarding the sources of the parts and put up some links up if I can find them.

 

I didn't need any specialised tools.  Most of the fasteners used an allen key, there were a few of the plastic rivet things, and I think three screws which I was able to use a philips type screwdriver on.

 

I'd been putting off taking off the side panels, but it wasn't as bad as expected.  I did have a couple of problems dropping the plastic rivets holding the lower side panel onto the textured side panel as these are a little difficult to reach.  managed to find them eventually, though I have bought some spares just in case.  I also took the top panel off so that I could remove the airfilter housing and this has two little plastic pieces underneath acting as guides/shields for the frunck and rear seat release cables which I found a bit tricky to replace - should have taken some pictures when removing!

 

The worst problem was right at the end when doing up the screw at the rear of the top panel covering the LH compartment where I put the wiring.   These screws go into rubber well nuts in the frunck housing, and the left hand one must have pushed through and wouldn't tighten.  After fiddling with it for some time got the screw out but the well nut dropped down and I heard it bouncing about but it didn't fall out onto the floor.   Took all the panels off again to try and find it but no luck.  Fortunately these are the same as the screen mounting well nuts and I had some spare as I've mounted my screen using nut plates to replace the well nuts.

 

You also have to be careful with the tabs on the top panels and make sure they are all dropped into the mating holes before sliding forward.  I found one of mine was already cracked - presumably due to the dealer taking it off the do the warranty service on the frunck lock.

 

Fred

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Lenp

Fred,I have been in building trade all my life, and I can build a house,from top to bottom fit for a family to live in,and looking at your pictures and write up I WOULD NOT HAVE A CLUE were to begin and were to finish ,its great to have a skill to do with biking..Ride Safe

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fred_jb

Fred,I have been in building trade all my life, and I can build a house,from top to bottom fit for a family to live in,and looking at your pictures and write up I WOULD NOT HAVE A CLUE were to begin and were to finish ,its great to have a skill to do with biking..Ride Safe

Well Len I have worked in electronics and computing all my life, so I guess it's not too surprising that I have some skills in those areas!  However, I would say it is even more useful to have building skills like you.  I struggle with that sort of thing and have to employ people - though I did do the plumbing and electrics on an extension once, at great cost to my sanity, and even more to my knee joints!

 

Fred

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miguelsanchez666

Very nicely done Fred. Chapeau bas! :)

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bonekicker

Fred excellent work and information as always--having the pic's makes all the difference --rather than just trying to explain--as Fred rightfully say's he as got a lot of talent's --but as to get other skilled people in to do some of his jobs--so we all have different skills--and learning new one's can be very useful and save money--it can be a bit daunting working on a £6000 motobike--thinking I could set this thing on fire--or it could just explode--so it's best to practice on your mates bike first--if it set's on fire or explodes-- and the bike just happens to be a HD--just think to yourself --that's what you get for your  owner taking the piss out of our Honda's--and just smile nicely-- :bye:  Vengeance can be sweet  :baby:

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RussB644

Good idea Fred to spread out the parts to those panels each side of the bike. I think that's where I went wrong, taking everything to the nearside, when by taking it to the offside everything is going to be less cluttered.

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fred_jb

Wow, thanks fred! Well thought out, and thanks for sharing and making the write up. I'm also interested in making a sub-harness extension lead - you said before about 70cm long - can you share the wire colours/sizes and the source for the white plug & socket.

 

Hi Mike,

 

I got the white Sumitomo plug and sockets from fleabay - try searching for the following:

 

item number:161059269184

item number:160704247809

 

3 way and 4 way Hitachi connectors for sub-harness:

 

item number:111140935530

item number:111221177057

 

I can't find the exact cable I bought, but would have preferred the following which is black rather than grey:

 

item number:121385764046    This is 11 amp per wire - sub-harness switched 12v supply is fused at 7.5 Amps so should be more than adequate.

 

(I pulled the central white wire out of the cable as it wasn't needed and doing so made the cable a little more flexible.)

 

Fred

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MikeBike

Another "Thanks Fred!"

Having found out that the fuse in the harness is only 1A (12W) according to the installation instructions, I realise I'd need the same solution as you with an additional supply and relay, just using the harness input as signals rather than power source.

I've found I need a separate 12V socket for the air pump so that's my starting point.

Edited by MikeBike

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fred_jb

Another "Thanks Fred!"

Having found out that the fuse in the harness is only 1A (12W) according to the installation instructions, I realise I'd need the same solution as you with an additional supply and relay, just using the harness input as signals rather than power source.

I've found I need a separate 12V socket for the air pump so that's my starting point.

Just to clarify:

 

The standard Honda 12V socket is powered off the sub-harness via a relay and a fuse which is limited to 7.5A in total for all accessories connected to it, but the Honda 12V socket has its own individual fuse in the wiring (which I think is only 1A) so you need to take the panels off the replace this fuse if you blow it.   This makes it unsuitable for powering anything that needs a lot of power like a tyre pump. The other point about the Honda socket is that it is only live with the ignition on, so as the supply is switched on by a relay cannot be used as a 12V input point for battery charging, as there is no connection to the battery through the relay unless the ignition is switched on.

 

What I've done is put a switched 12V socket and a USB adapter in the battery cover panel to avoid the need for the Honda socket.  I have then used the location where the Honda socket normally goes to fit my own 12V socket.  However unlike the Honda socket, this is connected directly to the battery via a 15A fuse, so can be used for high power items, and because it does not go through a relay can also be used with my Optimate and its 12V socket adapter lead, to charge the battery.

 

Fred

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pjm

I have picked up the switched live off of the honda socket to feed the relays on the Fuzeblock and tracker. I have gone straight off the battery and also put the optimate charge connector straight to the battery. I wouldn't know where to find the sub harness sockets on the Integra but managed to get the centre and side trim panels off without too much aggro. One of the Allen bolts holding the rear seat in place had already been rounded off which was a bit frustrating. Put it back with some anti seize on to help in the future. I have noticed the Allen bolts are very shallow when compared to the more conventional heads on the bolts on my CBF. I will be having fun running power up to the bars for the sat nav next.

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kayz1

Almost 2 months old but never mind.

The sub harness socket for the integra 750 in behind the left front side panel as you sit on the bike sits above the ABS unit.

Lyn.

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LeeC

Hi Fred, really impressed with with your wiring mods, especially the power distribution box, have looked for the one that you have used, but can't find one anywhere, can you share your source?

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fred_jb

Will have a look for the info

 

Fred

Edited by fred_jb

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fred_jb

Hi Fred, really impressed with with your wiring mods, especially the power distribution box, have looked for the one that you have used, but can't find one anywhere, can you share your source?

Hi Lee,

 

Below are links to the items I bought for the power distribution box.   The small 8 way busbar was screwed and superglued to the fuseblock box and then wired to the earth supply on the box so as to provide additional earth connection points.  I used the screw which originally bolted on the plastic bracket and drilled a hole in the side of the box so that I could bolt it on to the outside of the box, secured by the superglue. Having this makes wiring stuff up easier. 

 

You will need to copy the following links and remove the spaces in the word e b a y before pasting into your browser.  This is necessary because the forum automatically changes the word e b a y to "that auction site".

 

http://www.e b a y.co.uk/itm/8-Way-Connector-Neutral-Terminal-230v-400v-Busbar-RCD-MCB-Boat-Caravan-Car-Amp-/331751221491?hash=item4d3de9e8f3

 

http://www.e b a y.co.uk/itm/12V-fuseblock-self-healing-fuses-switched-fused-power-outlet-5-way-/262208327192?hash=item3d0cd58e18

 

You will need to provide a fused supply from the battery to the fuseblock, plus an ignition switched 12V feed to activate the relay in the fuseblock and make the fused outputs live when the ignition is turned on.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Fred

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LeeC

Fred, many thanks, need to get my NC750S powered up to maintain accessories I want to add for a sponsored 24 Hr John O'Groats to Lands End Ride in June.

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fred_jb

Fred, many thanks, need to get my NC750S powered up to maintain accessories I want to add for a sponsored 24 Hr John O'Groats to Lands End Ride in June.

No problem, hopefully you should be able to get it all sorted before June, and good luck with the sponsored ride - sounds like tough one!

 

Fred

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bornagain

Hi @fred_jb,

 

Just wanted to add my thanks. :cheer:

 

I did a 15 amp 12volt socket and the power distribution box. (No sub harness required)

 

Today I have working heated grips (in the nick of time!) and pumped the tyres up with my airman tour powered from the frunk.

 

All due to this post.

Regards,

Neil.

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fred_jb
2 hours ago, bornagain said:

Hi @fred_jb,

 

Just wanted to add my thanks. :cheer:

 

I did a 15 amp 12volt socket and the power distribution box. (No sub harness required)

 

Today I have working heated grips (in the nick of time!) and pumped the tyres up with my airman tour powered from the frunk.

 

All due to this post.

Regards,

Neil.

Hi Neil,

 

Glad it was useful to you.

 

Take care.

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Hacknslash

Excellent article well worth the read. I'll use this as reference for when I install my heated grips

 

Ian

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tiago vieira

Fantastic post Fred! Thank you for this.

 

Tiago

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Walklikegump

Very informative.  ta Fred . Just need to work out how favourite this post.

My new bike will be arriving with the honda 12v socket and it looks like it isn't going to do everything required. 

 

   

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