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Buy and fit new chain


ncmf

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Hi

 

I have bought a chain riviter so am going to have a go at fitting one myself. Does anyone have any tips.

Also can anyone suggest a mid priced set and a place to buy.

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As I understand it, in essence an X ring can offer better sealing (of the grease inside the chain pivots) due to 2 sealing points each side as opposed to one sealing point with a O ring, and with lowe

A few tips; 1. On the old chain, grind off the head of the rivet your going to remove, it is possible not to, but it will most likely break the tool if you don't. 2. Undo the gearbox sprocket nut b

After spending 30 odd years with shaft drive bikes I have to say that as far as I can recall chains seem to be more trouble now than they were in the 70's.   Then again, perhaps it's because back th

Slowboy

A few tips;

1. On the old chain, grind off the head of the rivet your going to remove, it is possible not to, but it will most likely break the tool if you don't.

2. Undo the gearbox sprocket nut before you remove the chain. My wife stood on the rear brake pedal to lock it all and that was enough.

3. Have a good hand cleaner for afterwards, it's a filthy job.

4. Take your time, it's easy to overlook something

5. When riveting the new chain, do it when it's on the rear sprocket rather than on the upper or lower run, it makes it more stable.

A bit in random order, it's early!, but good luck and hope it goes well.

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Guest bonekicker

It sounds rather dodgy to me--I think you need to practice several times before you do you chain--are the split links not allowed these day's?? and get some orange swarfega to get your hands clean--dirty job--Good Luck--let us know how you get on?  :baby:

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It sounds rather dodgy to me--I think you need to practice several times before you do you chain--are the split links not allowed these day's?? and get some orange swarfega to get your hands clean--dirty job--Good Luck--let us know how you get on?  :baby:

Boney split links are from the days of 30 hp! would you want one under you on the wasp?

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glencoeman

I can't really see a problem with using split links as the NC, even in 750 form only produces about 54bhp - only about 48bhp in 700 form. You have remember that all British bikes such as the Norton Commando, Triumph Trident and all the 650cc twins etc, all the early Japanese multi cylinder bikes used to use split link chains (no O'ring chains in those days) with rarely reported problems. Most of the problems were with owners who had badly connected the chain (e.g putting the split link facing the wrong direction usually). Nowadays, you can even put a smear of silicon on the split link to keep it in place if you are worried about it coming off.

Edited by glencoeman
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I bought JT chain and sprockets. Seem to be holding up well as they've now done 8000 miles and been adjusted 3 times. OE were shot by the same mileage although the OE went through the winter. JT didn't do the 17 tooth front sprocket. They may do now, I used the 16. I believe that Biketorque racing were planning to get the 17 front but I haven't asked recently. It's an easy enough job. Good luck!

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I would cheerfully use a split link on my Integra. The 500cc (74bhp) Paton race bikes use them most successfully. We've had our share of problems, but never with the chains. :)

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maybe its just too tricky fitting a split link with o rings? Its a job compressing the rivet type -even with the right tool!

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I bought and fitted an endless DID 520 VX2 chain last weekend.

Tips in hindsight if you are changing the front sprocket, then loosen the nut before removing the rear wheel (if you were, im guessing you would not - so loosen the nut before breaking the old chain....).

 

Undoing the rear sprocket (it's like 80 odd pound foot) - stand it up so its facing into a wall, sit on the wheel to stop it moving and use a breaker bar...

 

If using a riveter, measure the compression on the plates of the exiting factory rivets with a vernier gauge so as to not over compress the new link with the tool.

 

After putting on an endless chain, i was surprise how simple it was to drop the swing arm and fit - so will be going endless on NC from now on

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Thanks for the advice. Any links to where to buy?

"Links" I see what you did there! :D

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I bought and fitted an endless DID 520 VX2 chain last weekend.

................

 

After putting on an endless chain, i was surprise how simple it was to drop the swing arm and fit - so will be going endless on NC from now on

That was my conclusion after taking the swingarm out, it really isn't a difficult nor time consuming job, no special tools required, and it gives the chance to grease all the bearings. Plus you get a factory riveted chain so no issues there.

 

FWIW I got my chain from Busters because I happened to have a voucher, but other suppliers are available (M&P, Wemoto, Intobikes etc). Check their auction site shop and their own online site, sometimes prices vary a bit either way. I fitted a DID VX2 chain, very good results so far (about 8k miles and sweet as a nut, much smoother than the original O-ring version. Expect around £65 or so for the VX2. Make sure you get the right length, the different NC models use different number of links.

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Guest Beterraba

That was my conclusion after taking the swingarm out, it really isn't a difficult nor time consuming job, no special tools required, and it gives the chance to grease all the bearings. Plus you get a factory riveted chain so no issues there.

 

FWIW I got my chain from Busters because I happened to have a voucher, but other suppliers are available (M&P, Wemoto, Intobikes etc). Check their auction site shop and their own online site, sometimes prices vary a bit either way. I fitted a DID VX2 chain, very good results so far (about 8k miles and sweet as a nut, much smoother than the original O-ring version. Expect around £65 or so for the VX2. Make sure you get the right length, the different NC models use different number of links.

Why not to go for the DID 520zvm-x chain?

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Sure, why not if it's better spec and available.

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Grumpy old man

What's the difference between x and O chain?

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What's the difference between x and O chain?

 

The design of the little seals that keep the lubricant in and the weather out. 'X' rings are alleged to be superior but, in my experience, 'O' rings work perfectly well too. 

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As I understand it, in essence an X ring can offer better sealing (of the grease inside the chain pivots) due to 2 sealing points each side as opposed to one sealing point with a O ring, and with lower friction so smoother action.

 

What you do tend to find though is that an X ring chain also offers a higher spec of construction, slightly thicker plates and possibly bigger diameter bearing pins etc. The manufacturers package a set of features and market it at a premium, or look at it the other way and say the basic O-ring chain is the cheapest version to make.

 

There's nothing to say one is necessarily good, the other bad. My experience is that certainly with the likes of DID, the "up-specced" versions do perform better in the long run, better feel, smoother, longer life etc. There is definitely a world of difference in feel between the OE DID O-ring chain which came with my bike and the VX2 version which I fitted after about 5k miles because I didn't like the feel of the OE item, you could feel it while riding (grainy vibrations).

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Guest Beterraba
Sure, why not if it's better spec and available.[/

I dont know anything of mechanics..

Thank you for the reply.

With 19000km i Need a new transmission kit.

Will see if the zvm is the same Price hás the xv2.

But the specs are preatty much the same. Just a small advantage to the zvm.

Thank you

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After spending 30 odd years with shaft drive bikes I have to say that as far as I can recall chains seem to be more trouble now than they were in the 70's.

 

Then again, perhaps it's because back then so long as it wasn't looking rusty and it stayed on the sprocket we didn't worry.......

 

IMHO, If my 750xDCT was shaft drive it'd be almost perfect. :D

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If you think modern chains are a problem, you obviously are too young to remember boiling chains up in Linklyfe, a big round tin of black solid grease which you put on the cooker ring and melted it to soak the chain. You then removed the hot chain and hung it up to drain into the tin. This caused much smelliness and drips of black grease over the floor of the kitchen, and much chagrin for the rest of the family usually. Those were the days. :ahappy:

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Didn't want to create a new topic on chain and sprockets so decided to post here.

 

My chain has few tight spots and slowly coming to the end of adjustment range. I still think it is quite good result though having clocked some 13k on the OEM chain.

 

Anyway decided to buy DID 520VX2GB-114 chain and JT sprockets (17 front and 43 rear as per 750X DCT specs). However JT has two versions of rear sprocket: JTR1303 made of C49 High Carbon Steel and JTA1303 made of 7075-T6 Aluminium Alloy. Are there any significant pros of alu over steel one apart from corrosion resistance?

Edited by Radarman
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