Buy and fit new chain

[shiggsy 529]

The Aluminium one will be lighter and should be better for mpg (by how much I don't know) but it will wear quicker.  I have the C49 rear sprocket on mine.  Corrosion shouldn't be an issue.

[nabrU 2,294]

Corrosion shouldn't be an issue.

 

Well my OEM rear sprocket has some small signs of corrosion pitting I believe.

Edited February 7, 2016 by Radarman

[Jimish 158]

I don't understand how anything like a rear sprocket which is so heavily lubricated, could corrode?

Have you been cleaning off the lubricant with some sort of solvent?

[nabrU 2,294]

I don't understand how anything like a rear sprocket which is so heavily lubricated, could corrode?

Have you been cleaning off the lubricant with some sort of solvent?

 

Well, I commute on the bike every day sun or rain, hot or cold. I have been using Loobman chain oiler with gear oil (and 10W30 engine oil in winter) for almost a year. Never used anything else for cleaning the chain than Wurth Chain Cleaner or WD40 and a rag.

 

So my only suspect here could be gritted roads during winter commutes.

[embee 7,288]

Stick to the steel for road use Hubert. No advantages in aluminium for your use.

[usabikes 440]

If you think modern chains are a problem, you obviously are too young to remember boiling chains up in Linklyfe, a big round tin of black solid grease which you put on the cooker ring and melted it to soak the chain. You then removed the hot chain and hung it up to drain into the tin. This caused much smelliness and drips of black grease over the floor of the kitchen, and much chagrin for the rest of the family usually. Those were the days.

 

I initially wanted a shaft or even belt drive but reluctantly took up the NC with a chain. In reality it has been a non issue. I fitted an oiler and need to adjust the chain maybe once between replacing rear tyres. Big fat hairy deal.

 

I got a new chain (DID VX2 thanks embee!) which has a split link. (The machine only produces 50 HP boys, it's not gonna rip the link apart.) I can replace it myself so saving any fiddly tech stuff rivetting blessed pins, yanking out the swinging fork or the expense of paying my lovely mecahnic to do it.

 

I have two or maybe three kinked links now on my OE chain and will replace with my DID - after 30,000 ks the rear sprocket looks fine - does the Collective think should one replace sprockets as a matter of course anyway?

[temp 359]

I always replace chain and sprockets at the same time. Worn sprockets will wear a chain quicker, and vice versa, so replacing both is an economy in the long run.

 

I am surprised that a 30k sprocket looks fine when run with a kinked chain, is it made of Kryptonite?

[usabikes 440]

I always replace chain and sprockets at the same time. Worn sprockets will wear a chain quicker, and vice versa, so replacing both is an economy in the long run.

 

I am surprised that a 30k sprocket looks fine when run with a kinked chain, is it made of Kryptonite?

 

Just noticed the kinks so they haven't been there for long, maybe a couple of hundred k's. Kinks are new to me, coming back onto new bikes - we didn't seem to get 'em back in the '70's

[embee 7,288]

Back in the 70s chains were carp and wore out before they got tight links, no O-rings etc so the pins and bushes just got loose.

 

As discussed at length in other threads, the OE chain isn't the best standard, you've done pretty well to get to 30k km on it. The new one will be a nicer item all round.

 

As for sprockets, well yes the received wisdom is always replace as a set, but in practice you'll often find the rear sprocket will still be in pretty good shape even when the chain dies, I've often said it's not a sin to fit a new chain on a used rear sprocket which "looks" like new, but I'm usually shot down on that. The tooth pitch stays the same on a sprocket even when worn, which it doesn't on the chain (pitch extends), so it won't necessarily give a new chain a hard time. The key factor is the tooth shape, does it show any sign of "hooking" at all? If yes, renew.

 

It's a decision you'll have to make yourself. At 30k km I'd definitely fit a new front one, being smaller it not only gets a lot more contacts per km but also the increased angularity as the chain enter/exits will tend to wear it more. If it is symmetrical in the fitting arrangement (like the NC is) I usually turn the gearbox sprocket round at roughly what I expect to be half the life so it's driving on the more or less unworn flanks (overrun doesn't really wear them, not high load and not usually for very long compared to drive). Again I'm usually shot down on this but I see no technical reason why you shouldn't (in practical terms rather than ideal terms). If it was OK to run on drive with half worn flanks why can't it run on overrun on the half worn flanks?

 

Text books say replace all parts as a new set.

[nabrU 2,294]

Back from my local Honda dealer after 16k service..

I earlier bought both sprockets (JTF1373 17-teeth front and JTR1303 43-teeth rear) and DID 520VX2GB-114 chain to be replaced as well.

 

Imagine how surprised I was when they came from workshop to tell me my rear sprocket is not the right one. They said it should be 39 teeth. What's more the chain is 114 links but should be 112.

I was totally confused as buying them online I provided year and bike model and when received I double checked all the details on JT Sprockets and DID websites and all seemed fine.

 

http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/530

 

Honda guys checked all data in their IT system and said it should be 39 which apparently was fitted to the bike from new.

 

NC750X: http://www.bike-parts-honda.com/pieces-honda-detail-71520-71520-NC750XAE-2014-F_26-NC+750+X+ABS.html

NC750X DCT: http://www.bike-parts-honda.com/pieces-honda-detail-71541-71541-NC750XDE-2014-F_26-NC+750+X+ABS+DCT.html

 

So ended up with new front 17T sprocket and new 114 link chain but rear one remained the old one 39T (they said it has around 10k life).

Rode home with no issues but the question is if the chain is now 114 instead 112, is that possible to properly adjust it (as I believe it is longer now)? Any issues here?

Why there are differences between JT Sprockets catalogue and Honda?

[trisaki 2,029]

Dct is a 39 rear manual is 43 rear / just done a forum members 700dct , which should have been 16 f, 39r and a 112 chain , had a shock when I got the bike in to find it had a 114 chain , turns out it had a 43 ( manual sprkt) which the customer didn't know about fitted from a dealer who didn't inform him

[trisaki 2,029]

When ordered , did you tell them it was a DCT or manual , coz the difference is the chain length and the rear spkt

[nabrU 2,294]

Mark,

Obviously ordering I provided year and model including information about DCT.

Looks like there is an error on the JT Sprockets website as they list both NC750X DCT and non-DCT with the same 17T/43T sprockets.
 

Is that possible Honda workshop shorten the chain from 114 to 112 links? It looks like chain slack is OK and marks are far from rear edge of the red zone of adjusting slot.

I would imagine having 114 links on the 39T rear sprocket it would be almost impossible to adjust chain slack within the adjuster limits...

Edited March 21, 2016 by Radarman

[trisaki 2,029]

I've got their catalogue , will check to see what's listed , the last time I looked they didn't list the dct apart from the integra , will check tomorrow for you , do you enjoy the run out Sunday , great to meet up with other NCers

Edited March 21, 2016 by trisaki

[djsb 491]

I recently bough a JT 17 tooth front sprocket (JTF1373.17) off B & C Express. I've just sent them an email asking about the rear 39 tooth sprocket (JTR1303.39). Maybe if you ask them as well they may be convinced to get some in stock. It's worth a try.

[djsb 491]

Just got a reply from B & C Express.

 

We have stock of the 1303-39 sprockets and the cost is £21.38 including VAT

Regards,

Chaz

 

HTH.

[trisaki 2,029]

My catalogue was actually a b&c express not jt as thought , well up to 2015 they didn't list a ncDCT variant either 700 or 750 apart from the integra when I got a dct kit from them they said the dct will be listed in the next update either catalogue if they do one or online

Edited March 22, 2016 by trisaki

[nabrU 2,294]

Many thanks for heads up. I contacted the shop where I bought my bits and my rear sprocket would be exchanged for the 39T FOC.

But the question is still open how the 114 link chain on my bike has been fitted with 17/39 sprockets?

[aquaboy 105]

As some  people have said the DCT seems to get into top gear a little too early for the engine revs. I would think a slightly larger

rear sprocket  would make the ride a little more comfortable.  This could also explain some of the difference in miles per gallons.

[aquaboy 105]

Just been out too the bike and had a count.  112 links and a 43 rear sprocket.  2013,  700x manual

 

(didn't want dirty hands so no gearbox sprocket.)       Is this right as I would think the shorter chain should be with the smaller rear (39)

or is that 750 only?

[Joeyjoejnr 96]

Its all very confusing.  I need to order a new chain and sprocket kit for my NC750X DCT 2014 asap. I dont have the manual so can someone confirm what size chain and sprockets to buy.  Im nearly sure I need a 17 T front sprocket but im not sure if it 39 or 42 T rear sprocket?  I want a good quality DID chain. Im assuming a 520 vx2 chain is fine?  Any recommendations on where to buy?

[Guest Simo]

Read this thread with interest after washing my NC750 today and found two tight links in my chain, c10K miles done on the chain.

I didn't look after a chain well enough in the past so with this chain I've waxed regularly coating all surfaces to help with corrosion, cleaned regularly with wd40 and still I get tight links! I ride everyday in all weathers so there's a limit to how well I can care for it. But we're talking weekly maintenance here.

Is 10K acceptable to wear out or does it come down to me not looking after it well enough? Although I can't see what more I can do. I accelerate the bike as quick as it will go, if that makes a difference, I know it will to the chain overall but not tight links surely.

Any ideas what I can do to free up tight links without getting chain off? I've tried to work wd40 in there. No obvious signs of corrosion.

Any advice appreciated.

[DaveM59 1,603]

WD 40 is possibly the problem. It is a water repellent not a lubricant and will thin and wash out any grease from inside the rollers. Once this is washed out no amount of external greasing will penetrate due to the o-rings which are designed to retain the grease and keep dirt out. WD 40 gets past them being thin and creeping.

You might recover the links by soaking the chain in a tray of grease heated to melt it into a thin oil it so it can get right inside the rollers then when it cools will harden and stay put. Damage to the rubber o-rings may be caused by the heat then too so possibly the best you can do is oil the chain with gear oil or engine oil rather than wax, and hope it penetrates. 

[JONO49 201]

This thread scares me to think that people on here are contemplating putting split links on "O" and "X" ring chains where the rest of the chain is compressed to make a seal against the elements! and WD40 on tight spots FFS if the chain is maintained with an oiler the tight spots don't happen in the first place! forget your budget, buy a quality X ring chain and sprockets that arent made of toffee, fit an oiler and you'll have a chain that will last 30,000 miles at least.

And the thought of not doing a front sprocket when replacing the rest that's the end that suffers the wear first...if you dont believe me get the cover off and have a look!!!!!

[shiggsy 529]

I have never taken any notice of tight links, I only replace the chain when it reaches the wear indicator.