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Buy and fit new chain


ncmf

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  • embee

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  • nabrU

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  • Joeyjoejnr

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As I understand it, in essence an X ring can offer better sealing (of the grease inside the chain pivots) due to 2 sealing points each side as opposed to one sealing point with a O ring, and with lowe

A few tips; 1. On the old chain, grind off the head of the rivet your going to remove, it is possible not to, but it will most likely break the tool if you don't. 2. Undo the gearbox sprocket nut b

After spending 30 odd years with shaft drive bikes I have to say that as far as I can recall chains seem to be more trouble now than they were in the 70's.   Then again, perhaps it's because back th

JONO49

So what's wrong with split links on "O" or X ring chains then?

It comes with no seals and is not designed so! pardon the pun but it would create a weak link due to dirt and water ingress it would let in, thats why "O" and "X" ring chains were designed for longer a life when suitably lubricated i.e. "OIL"!!!!!! there's nothing better! wax sit's there and does nothing good apart from coating the chain to stop corrosion on the side plate's, penetrating oil is too thin to do any good at all apart from on a rag to clean a chain after washing.

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steve916s

I've used split links for many years on DID VX2 chains with no problems. The link comes with the correct X rings and grease.

The spring was always a bit loose for my liking, but I never lost one. A spot of silicone stopped it moving and potentially wearing.

Got 43k out of my last one, and it still had some life in it.

 

ATB

Steve   :-)

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JONO49

Silicone to hold the clip on!!!!!!! top notch maintenance that one :thumbsup:

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giley

John re tight spots not happening with oiler.

My oem chain has a bad tight spot, i have had a tutoro oiler on it since new. 7000 miles only!

Getting a DID on next week at service.

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steve916s

Silicone to hold the clip on!!!!!!! top notch maintenance that one :thumbsup:

The silicone doesn't hold it on, it stops the clip "rattling". LOL

 

Old style clips had an open end and were under spring tension. More modern clips have two complete circular holes for the 'rivet' pins. When the circle at the open end closes, the clip can rattle a bit on the link.

Just don't like that movement. Could turn into wear.

 

ATB

Steve   :-)

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Joeyjoejnr

I ordered a new chain and sprocket kit for my Nc750x DCT.  I Fitted a new D.I.D chain and front + Rear sprockets today. After 12500 km the OEM chain was pretty much done.

I never removed a rear wheel before so removing that and the chain was a big achievement for me. I had bought a chain fitting tool from louis.de last year and finally put it to good use.

Along with a youtube video of a D.I.D technician fitting a chain off I went. It was all pretty straight forward. It was more or less a 2 man job to fit the rear wheel back on whilst the boss fed the axel bolt through.

I only had a small spanner to tighten the chain tool so ill invest in a larger one for this task in future, something with more leverage.

The chain comes with a grease coating on it so I didnt add anything. I then used the laser tool to align the chain. As with some bikes the alignment markers that Honda use are not perfect. And lastly I gave the bike a good clean and a coating of acf 50. I spent about 6 hrs doing that today but now that its done once im sure its more of a 1.5 hr job maybe.

I just hope I got the torque values correct.  I put rear alex 72 lbs, rear sprocket nuts 80 lbs and front sprocket nut 54 lbs.

 

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scoot_to_boot

May I ask which fitting tool it was ? I think they have 3 on their website. 

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Joeyjoejnr

May I ask which fitting tool it was ? I think they have 3 on their website. 

Its basically this one but the maker is Rothewald. Its designed for D.I.D chains https://www.louis.de/en/artikel/craft-meyer-chain-breaker-and-riveter-for-d-i-d/10002556?list=174649240&filter_article_number=10002556

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embee

...

I just hope I got the torque values correct.  I put rear alex 72 lbs, rear sprocket nuts 80 lbs and front sprocket nut 54 lbs.

 

 

From the workshop manual

 

Rear axle = 98Nm or 72 lb.ft

Rear sprocket nuts = 108Nm or 80 lb.ft

Front sprocket (gearbox) bolt = 54Nm or 40 lb.ft

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Joeyjoejnr

Thanks embee. I possible over tightened the front sprocket. Think i set it to 54 ft-lbs. I have the manual for the nc700x but this work shop manual you have sounds different. Is it possible to buy these? Or is it the same thing?

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Guest sykospain

Señor Ted doesn't like references to shop manuals on this forum.  Rights of the Author and all that.

Just keep shtumm and look at "Donate" to become a Supporter and all will be revealed.  A mere tenner shd do it.

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scoot_to_boot

Joey, thanks for the info. Some reviews were a bit meh, but to hear it from a real person makes the difference.

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Joeyjoejnr

@scoot to boot. Only negative I find is its a little tricky with rear sprockets that have a lip on it. It's just a matter of getting the laser tool to balance correctly whilst aligning the chain.

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  • 1 month later...
scoot_to_boot

Did the DID thing today, with a hollow rivet and the afam riv 5 tool. I was lucky, the sprockets came off easy enough. The Afam tool is not built to last, but works well and will survive two more chains at least. The difference between the new and old chain is unreal. Its inaudible now. On the old chain 2 out of 3 links were sticking seriously after 32k kms (all weather, tender care). 
 
Flip and reuse? Not this one.
 
j2ny5zia.jpg
 

 

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Guest sykospain

There doesn't seem yet to be a response to Joey Joe Junior's request in post #46 of this thread, as to what is the exact spec for renewing a DCT chain/sprockets set on a 750 - presumably the "X" and the "S" are the same for both DCTs.

Obviously manual versions will be different.

Anybody know for sure the details : -

chain length, front sprocket tooth count, similarly rear-sprocket, and best DID to buy ?

Also, not yet having an oiler for mine, I was impressed by the Tutoro guy's various U-Toob vids.

Edited by sykospain
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Derek_Mac

 Joey answered his own question afaik, well he told us what he fitted.

  Aren't the specs of the chain and sprockets in the 750 parts catalogue in the 'oops, you know where to look' section?

(Obviously this won't tell you which DID chain is the best) :)

 Yes, the Tuturo oiler is good. :D

 

Edit: If you dig into the 750 parts catalogue you'll find the specs of the sprockets etc.

Edited by Derek_Mac
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  • 2 months later...
Guest chickenflaps

Well, today my 700X had it's first new chain and sprockets after, wait for it, 34,445 miles on the original set.  A Tutoro oiler from new doubtless helped get to that mileage, although judging by how smooth and quiet the transmission now is, the job couldn't have waited much longer!

 

Interestingly, the 750S loan bike seemed to be a much nicer bike than my 700X, and I loved the fuel read out stuff on the instrument panel. With mixed riding 80mpg seemed easy to achieve.

 

I also enjoyed a test ride on the Honda "Grom" (as the yanks like to call them), but that's a different story.

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