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MikeBike

AEG Daytime Running Lights fitted

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MikeBike

I originally saw these AEG LK18 in a Conrad Electronics store in Europe when thinking about fitting them to a car, and decided to fit them to the bike because I liked:

  • AEG brand/quality from a store I know and have used before (abroad), but available in the UK from Conrad online
  • Very good value (£22, plus postage)
  • The look of the lights
  • The fact that they are a strip rather than a spot, which for me when mounted vertically gives more of a 'bike' implression.

I was planning on mounting to the crash bars, but I found that if I swapped around the supplied brackets as shown below I could mount them to the Evotech performance radiator guard and get a fitting which is near vertical, and they lie inside the outside line of the crash bars. The lights themselves are plastic and in a crash would likely break at the mounting points and not damage the radiator sides.

DSC00774_zps3vxxtvwm.jpg

 

They have three wires each white (switched +) black (earth) and an optional yellow which when powered dims the lights. I powered them from a spare connector on the sub harness as they are only 7W (<1A), and connected the yellow via a switch, so I can have them on full or dimmed. The idea maybe being at night to have them dimmed so not to dazzle and hide indicators etc (I need to experiment). If I dont use it I may strip out the switch which is mounted on a small plastic box velcroed to the inside of the side faring behind the honda logo. I can reach the switch (when stopped) but it's out of the way. In the package they supply a 12V 10A relay in case it is needed for one of the mounting connection options for a car, so you get a free relay for something else.. :-)

 

At the same time I re-attached the sub harness and it's connections by the same upper left hand fairing so if I need to acess any of the fuses (12v socket, heated grips, daytime lights) I can so so by removing the top side panel next to the frunk lock with two poppers and one screw rather than taking off all the side fairings. It was a bit tricky getting the fairings off with the crash bars in place - hence the neck scarf over the bars to avoid scratches. I also wrapped the sub harness/loom connector in tape as it was getting dirty and a little exposed.

DSC00799_zpsbara2fz2.jpg

 

 

I'm pleased with the look, the fitting to the bike and especially the size and style with curved in tops which look like they are suited to the bike and on the right side is just at the same height as the radiator cap.

IMG_20150920_153921_zpsammuldd8.jpg

 

DSC00809_zps1fsd4k0h.jpg

 

DSC00810_zpsjutzvtfx.jpg

 

The performance is also excellent, and at night they also illuminate the road for about 10m ahead between the headlights beam and the bike (see the reflection on the road on the night picture) The lights can be turned in / out so you can point them where you want for the best effect, for example straight ahead, or slightly toed out to catch vehicles in a side road/ adjacent lane with a more direct beam (if that's legal)

DSC00800_zpsu0br2iva.jpg

 

View from a distance (the brightness doesnt show so well on the photo but they are bright - compare to headlamp)

IMG_20150920_153945_zpsdk1d6bly.jpg

 

For anyone else doing this I would recommend investigating the spare 'Option A'  connector up by the forks (needing sub harness relay/fuse) as it's close by and doesn't need any panels removing, but I don't know the connector type.

Edited by MikeBike
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MikeBike

 In the package they supply:

  •     The two lights with short cable tails and bullet connectors
  •     Cables (long) with bullet connectors and splices 2:1 for the yellow, black and white
  •     2 inline fuses
  •     a 12V 10A relay in case it is needed for one of the mounting connection options for a car, so you get a free relay for something else.. :-)
  •     Mounting bits (cable ties etc)

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bazza

Mike I have just had some VERY similar fitted - but mine cost £6 from "that auction site"

A member -who is an electrical genius - fitted them for me - I won't name him as he isn't looking for work! But i bet you can guess who!

They look virtually the same as yours.

I am particularly concerned at no side illumination on roundabouts - if you are sideways on to a driver on your left you aren't very visible - hence mine are angled slightly to the side . The wiring has been adjusted at the back so extra rear indicators or rear lights -such as top box versions-can be easily added.

It was pointed out to me that the white lights tend to look like they are flashing  when indicators are used-  so my chap has fitted an off switch but i would prefer to argue it with a cop ! OK, at MOT time I will simply switch them off .

 

(still haven't got the hang of putting photos on!)

http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/bazza950/media/honda/IMG_20150920_194720_zpsrhalhdzk.jpg.html

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Tonyj

Think they run better on a dct , just my opinion :0)

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Lenp

Not knowing anything about the above,building a house,not a problem,the question I would like to ask,is can the battery take all the extra lights? I see the new Triumph tiger 800 have updated to take extra lights...Ride Safe..

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GeoffThai

Mike, they look good. I put a double bank of Skene photon blasters just inside the crash bars but they are pricey. The Skene controller is good and I can link it into the headlight flash and indicators, which is important here. When they need replacing I will try your setup as girt biguns beat small uns every time. Thanks for the photos.

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fred_jb

Mike I have just had some VERY similar fitted - but mine cost £6 from "that auction site"

A member -who is an electrical genius - fitted them for me - I won't name him as he isn't looking for work! But i bet you can guess who!

They look virtually the same as yours.

I am particularly concerned at no side illumination on roundabouts - if you are sideways on to a driver on your left you aren't very visible - hence mine are angled slightly to the side . The wiring has been adjusted at the back so extra rear indicators or rear lights -such as top box versions-can be easily added.

It was pointed out to me that the white lights tend to look like they are flashing  when indicators are used-  so my chap has fitted an off switch but i would prefer to argue it with a cop ! OK, at MOT time I will simply switch them off .

 

(still haven't got the hang of putting photos on!)

http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/bazza950/media/honda/IMG_20150920_194720_zpsrhalhdzk.jpg.html

Just to clarify this - Bazza's lights, unlike Mike's, are combined running lights and indicator repeaters, so have both white LEDs and orange ones.   The two are powered separately, and the white lights have been wired to go through a switch so they can be switched off leaving just the indicator repeaters operational.   The lights contain some circuitry which suppresses the white LEDs when the indicator is lit, and this is what gives the impression of an alternate white and orange light when the indicator is going, and if the running lights are switched on.

 

The banks of orange LEDs were connected directly into the left and right indicator feeds, which were obtained from the 6 way connector the sub-harness connects to.   It turned out that the LEDs were sufficiently low load/high impedance that they did not adversely affect the indicator flashing rate, so the indicator flasher relay did not need to be changed.

 

Fred 

Edited by fred_jb
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MikeBike

I was originally thinking about having my light dim on the side where the indicators were on, by connecting the yellow 'dim' wire to the indicator feed, but realised that the indicator feed itself was flashing/pulsing so the daytime light on the side with the indicator would have pulsed alternately to the indicator. I would still quite like to dim the drl's when the indicators are on but would somehow need to change the flashing into a constant 'on' while the indicators are in use. I wondered if a capacitor etc would help but it got too complicated (for my off the cuff electronics knowledge) so just fitted a dimmimg switch for possible night-time use. (Need to test at night if the drl's drown the indicators).

 

Also when comparing the brightness to the headlamp in the pictures, the headlamp bulb was also upgraded to the Osram H4 Nightbreaker +110%

Edited by MikeBike

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MikeBike

Just to clarify this - Bazza's lights, unlike Mike's, are combined running lights and indicator repeaters, so have both white LEDs and orange ones.   The two are powered separately, and the white lights have been wired to go through a switch so they can be switched off leaving just the indicator repeaters operational.   The lights contain some circuitry which suppresses the white LEDs when the indicator is lit, and this is what gives the impression of an alternate white and orange light when the indicator is going, and if the running lights are switched on.

 

The banks of orange LEDs were connected directly into the left and right indicator feeds, which were obtained from the 6 way connector the sub-harness connects to.   It turned out that the LEDs were sufficiently low load/high impedance that they did not adversely affect the indicator flashing rate, so the indicator flasher relay did not need to be changed.

 

Fred 

I was looking to see the legality of dimming drl's with indicators, and having looked at (but not studied) the regs here I doubt the indicator repeaters are legal as it says one only at front, plus approval issues, angles etc. I don't know the legality of my DRL's either, and might just unplug them from the sub harness come MOT time, just in case.

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MikeBike

Just to add that if fitting these AEG running lights again I wouldn't bother using the yellow wire / switch to dim the lights. I would just leave the yellow and use the white supply.

 

Since fitting I have had much less incidents of people pulling out in front, and others have remarked how bright and visible they are, even standing out when riding in a group of bikes some of which had the more conventional round extra spot lights mounted. Even had some bikers so impressed they immediately ordered some...

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MikeBike

Here is a photo of the DRL's illuminating a wall 6 metres away, with the headlight unplugged, showing the brightness and shape of the illumination of the lights as mounted.

AEGLK18DRLsOnly_581x480_zpsxf0qbwya.jpg

Comments re photo above in thread

 

Edited by MikeBike
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halfabusa

Mike, I've been meaning to thank you again for the recommendation. I had the AEGs fitted beginning of feb and they have been fabulous. My mechanic fitted a switch so that I can use them in dimmed mode or full mode. They are connected to switched live so when the switch is off they come on dimmed, and when i flick it on all hell breaks lose. A worthy addition for sure!

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Rev Ken
On 21/09/2015 at 08:25, Lenp said:

Not knowing anything about the above,building a house,not a problem,the question I would like to ask,is can the battery take all the extra lights? I see the new Triumph tiger 800 have updated to take extra lights...Ride Safe..

7watts is less than some 'ordinary' side light bulbs! It is a negligible extra  load and far les than many other accessory DRLs. 

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MikeBike
21 hours ago, halfabusa said:

Mike, I've been meaning to thank you again for the recommendation. I had the AEGs fitted beginning of feb and they have been fabulous. My mechanic fitted a switch so that I can use them in dimmed mode or full mode. They are connected to switched live so when the switch is off they come on dimmed, and when i flick it on all hell breaks lose. A worthy addition for sure!

Glad you are pleased with them. I think they are 'brilliant' too.

Another biker saw me arrive in the car park at Betws y Coed yesterday and came over asking what they were as he was determined to get some. He also said they looked like they were designed for the bike and liked the vertical strip effect.

I don't use my switch anmore. I leave them in 'all hell breaks loose' mode.

Edited by MikeBike
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