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Genuine honda 10w/30 semi syn off the bay £49.99 free p&p once again that you people for the replies

Hi guys, I own Honda NC 750XD /2019 model/. The last time when I was going to ride my NC something strange happened. Went to the garage, put it on central stand, started the engine end let it working couple of minutes. When I was ready with my riding gear I sit on the bike and try put it in D (drive), but noting happened. Then I saw a dash sign ( - ) blink in the gear indicator. I shut the engine off with the key and start it again. This time I managed to select Drive mode but MIL (check engine) lamp lights up . I drove couple of kilometers and didn't notice anything unusual with the bike.

Honda’s recommendation is mineral (GN4). Semi or full synthetic is your choice.

Make sure the oil you choose is marked for motorcycles and is to JASO spec.

thank you to all who answered question about oil do i get 10/30 or 10/30 semi syn or something else might seem daft question but going to be my first oil change on the bike so want to get it right thank you

Apologise all, I'd always thought manual was 10/40, hence the issues on occasion for DCT owners and "standard oil", didn't realise it was 10/30 across the board. Luckily mine's a DCT and has always had Westway 10W30.

Not from me; I ignore all the "my DCT won't do this, that or the other" posts anyway....😀

Yawns, grins and says “all my tractors, including my David Brown 990 tractor, my Land Rover Discovery tractor, and my NC 750 tractor, get fed on Qualube All Farm 3” Disclaimer: I admit none of them will get to a million miles now. I pay just under £87 inc VAT for a 5.5 gallon drum. (yes, gallons). Slightly sluggish starting when sub-zero, but hey ho, they all get frequent oil changes and the farm heater runs on used engine oil. Sighs, puts hood up, waits for incoming

Yes, it's been 10W30 for years. It's the oil used in every Honda I've had in recent years - Crossrunner, NC750X, CBR650R, CL500.

Owners Manual for the manual says 10W30 as well, same as almost all Hondas since 2008ish.

thanks for that mate i should have put its manual so is that 10/40 semi syn please

Only if it's a DCT, if manual it's 10/40

so 10/30 semi syn is the right oil for my 2019 nC750x thanks in advance

wheel travel = shock travel multiplied by 3

I just put the bike against something i can mark, put somthing like a handlebar or indicator and mark with bike inloaded then sit on the bike and let it settle. I'd park next to a wall so i have something to prop my elbow against if i'm on my own but better with two people. Tape some card to the wall, mark and measure the difference, since this is just for comparison you can use it to see what difference changes make. It doesnt have to be uber accurate as its not being set up for a track day. I will say if the measurement is under 40mm the ride must be quite erhm 'firm'. At the

There are loads of guides online but the cable tie method is as good as any. I would just put cable ties on front and rear and go for a ride. Assuming you don’t slam the anchors on you need some wriggle room left. If you are using all the travel of the shock and fork when you are riding normally you need to either increase the preload or if that doesn’t work, a stiffer springs.

I use a zip tie, zip it around the shaft of the shock and slide it all the way up to rest against the body of the shock with only the weight of the bike on the wheels, ie not on a stand. It helps to have a helper. Sit on the bike, letting it take your weight gently with no stands down, one foot gently on the floor for balance is all you’ll need. Get off the bike and while still resting on its wheels and not on a stand (although I’ve always found on the side stand after I’ve centred it first is ok) them measure the distance between the shock body and the zip tie, that’s your sag at th

Stupid question but here goes - how do you measure the sag? on your own - as unfortunately I am now, widowed and avoiding people in general. 29" inside leg, both feet flat on the ground with knees slightly bent, probably means that I do need a heavy duty shock, especially when I load up the panniers and top box - another 20=30kg. Good job I don't take a pillion really.

Umm……….. I “encouraged” a little flexibility out of my right hand side panel, in order to get access to the top shock nut when I changed mine. Mine is the earlier 2017 model though. 🤗

See the later posts from Viator. Once the side panels are removed as he shows, the rear shock job is easy. No need to faff around like I did. I'm possibly the only guy on the planet who's done it in situ without removing the panels! We live and learn!

Thanks again to Viator for demonstrating how the side panels are attached. I removed mine this morning in about 10 minutes! The rear shock job will now be a doddle. I mistakenly thought that more panels would have to come off. Knowing where the seven hefty rubber grommet fixings are located is a huge help, since they always need a brave tug. I've treated mine with rubber grease ready for re-installing. Forum help at its best old(wiser)dude

I know this comes up all the time but upping the preload will just raise the bike at the rear, and for someone of your weight that will definitely help, but I'd be thinking about a new shock with much stiffer spring. Measuring the sag will confirm this. If you end up with the preload on maximum you will get back some ride height but your static sag will disappear which might compromise the comfort a bit.

Access to the nearside less direct, I used a 3/8 drive swivel joint just to hold the bolt while undoing from the other side...

With the panel removed access to the offside of the upper shock bolt is straight in and simple...