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Bit late now but google just found an article on best fuel to put in yr petrol tank before you lay up yr wheels for the winter: "It’s worth remembering that E10 is not the only option. E5 is likely to remain on UK forecourts for another five years, but even better for owners of historic cars could be investigating ethanol-free fuels. At the time of writing, there is no requirement for ethanol to be included in super unleaded (97/99) grade petrol, so if you’re driving a cherished older vehicle (or putting one into long term car storage), consider a switch to the UK’s only ethanol-free fuel

never had any issues with mine when I changed the battery. Apart from the getting the old one out from what I remember. Not hard just a bit fiddly. Not helped by my “extra connections “ 😁

Adjusting the mirrors at the handlebar ends is a piece of cake, lift up the rubber boot, slacken the locknut and adjust. Tighten locknut and refit the boot. So how do you go about adjusting the other end? I have to pull mine in to get down the side of the house, then adjust them on the first strait bit of road - while stationary officer. So riding home from work the darn things gradually moved back in , I ended up readjusting the RH mirror at least 4 times in 40 miles. The top rubber doesn't look like it just pulls down, is there a nut/locknut that can be acc

I checked the battery out today and it's ready 12.98v on the meter. With the Optimate showing red it suggests to me that the battery is charging and/or life expired. The bikes ok but I feel a load of issues once underway as the power drains. Anyway, I've got a replacement on order which should land tomorrow at some point. So, my question now is, are there any issues I should be aware of concerning the HISS and other electronic gizmos regarding the disconnection of the battery? Any horror stories?

Yes, i will do that. In Greece on 5th of May for this year it's Easter. So many departments will be on holidays i think that there will be a delay. But sure i will report whenever i have news.

All this talk of Optimate overlooks that they are not necessarily the same thing; there are several models and iterations. Mine is an Optimate 4 (but not the current (ahem) one) and is quite old (bought in 2013 when I bought a BMW F800 with Canbus electrics) but it can charge Canbus and non-Canbus systems but has to be changed between the two by some arcane process that I can't remember now. IIRC not all Optimates maintain the battery as well as charge them and attempt recovery. I have always charged mine over the winter layup about once per month. At least that way I can establish

Same as Rocker I've used a couple of Optimate's for years. It's worth noting that they are not plug in and forget. Depending on result of the charge indicated by the LED's the instructions state to disconnect for 12 hours and start the process over again. Case in point, my 2016 CB500F on original battery got a bit low over winter, after charging on the optimate LED 6 was flashing, normally would be static when fully charged, disconnected for at least 12 hours and started again, this time LED 6 was static and battery all good.

might have done, the optimate is a trickle charger. The tracker would certainly have impacted the chargers effectiveness. You need a certain voltage and current “pressure” from the charger to effectively maintain the charge. Ma not have been charging effectively, see above. I do the same, and it seems to work well for me, Just my experience and thoughts.

Sue and I have been using optimates for years especially when working where our leisure bikes would be left on it for months over the winter. .We have never had a problem when we went to put them back on the road.

When I first bought an Optimate, it was sold to me as a "plug in and forget" item which would magically charge, recover and maintain a battery. I'm not overly confident in the maintain part personally. I cant remember which year it was but one year I plugged in a bike for the winter and didnt touch it at all over hibernation. When it came back out several months later, the battery sounded laboured and sounded like it was struggling to start (it did in the end) even though the Optimate showed a green bar on the maintain setting. Being concerned about the state of the battery, I d

An M6 x 12mm flange headed bolt according to Google. Andy

Does anyone know? Is it this: 957010601200

I love to see him tackle a Tesla battery!

Had exactly the same scenario on my Enfield. My old optimate was charging and went green overnight and the bike started in the morning (it had struggled the day before) so I left it on charge and went out. The same afternoon the charger showed red. The bike started, I switched it off and pressed the button again, this time the starter solenoid just rattled and wouldn’t latch. The battery was trouted. One new battery later and it was fine. 5 years is a decent life for a battery, especially if it spends long periods not being used, charger or not.

You could always restore it. This fellow shows us how, and he does it without fancy tools. The video is worth a watch, even if it isn’t exactly what you had in mind Mr G. https://youtu.be/kNGg0P7B5fI

When my OEM battery gives out I was going to replace it like-for-like from a reputable supplier so i'll watch responses here with interest. Doubtless others will have better suggestions inc fitting the latest exotic batts (however whilst saving weight are probably more £ and need different charger, they may also present other probs such as cold weather starting). The step change in the Optimate indicator is weird. Trickle charging can mask underlying batt prob ie bike starts on the button when leaving yr garage but 2h and 100mi away bike fails to start at a petrol station. I'd

I've not used my NC750X DCT for a week or so. The battery has been hooked up to the Optimate since last Friday. I checked the bike yesterday and the battery was all good and showing green on the charger. Upon checking today I noticed the Optimate is now showing red suggesting that the battery is goosed. I turned the ignition on and fired up the bike and all seemed ok. I'm a bit reluctant to take her out for a spin knowing what problems a defective battery can do to the DCT. I thought, perhaps, that it might be the charger that's developed a defect so I attached it to my CB250G5 and all seemed

Let us know the result!

Nah go ahead and get the work done, if they find something then its fixed. On the flip side my old triumph 955 is way louder but its just mileage and wear.

Err, my experience on five year coolant is mixed. They say UP to five years. I left mine for four years on a wet liner Triumph and rust came out with the coolant ..

Gentlemen i think that i will follow the recommendation of the dealer although i am not convised of the outcome and that the most of you suggest and it seems logical to do. I bought this bike new for not to have any kind of trouble and you understand that this was kind of dissapointment for me. Except this the bike runs great and it suits my needs perfectly for a daily commuter and a Sunday ride at the beach with my wife, you know Greece in summer time has great places to go and get wet !! So today a big YES i would have bought it again if i had to make a choice for a new bike. As said above t

Plus one to that, and to @Andy m 's contribution. It looks to me to be a win/win for you if you take their advice on the fix. If you don't, it might not be so good later.

Some people have been happy with the NC's suspension, some unhappy. I'm in the later group. I got a 15% discount through Bennets (insurance), if they're running the Bike Social membership (which I believe you can get even if you don't insure with them) it may be worth getting it for the discount (obviously checking if you'll get the discount you want first). Think I was swayed by the reputation/made in Holland, etc. If I had my time again, I'd probably go YSS because people seem happy with them, they are very familiar with the NC, and also, again, a shock built for Thai

You can get a “Streetbox” kit, with a remote preload adjuster for an early NC for just over £800 iirc. Obviously it’s less without the remote adjuster. They’re built to order I believe, so you might have a few weeks wait for delivery. There’s a very good review / thread on here from Viator, who fitted the same to his 2021 NC? Well worth a read if you’re thinking about it. On this thread there’s a link to a YouTube review from Chris Moss who recommended the upgrade.