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I understand that completely and believe it but application of the theory is far more difficult.

Amen to that.

Yes, the sprocket carrier bearing is an unusual size. I don’t think it takes as much wear and tear as the actual wheel bearings and it’s bigger too.

Oh! Just an afternoon thought, the carrier bearing doesn't always need replacing at the same time as the wheel bearings, check it before ordering and if that's the case the wheel bearings are standard 6204.

It's not too difficult to check any bikes mileage - it's on the MOT which is available online to anyone. Caveat being no MOT for the first three years or on older bikes that are MOT exempt. Really don't want to give the insurance company yet another way to avoid paying up. Eddie17 - can't find any locknuts for the ball and socket arrangement at the top of the mirror stem

Without watching the vid I'm guessing he's referring to the sprocket carrier bearing (3rd bearing) which is a different size to the wheel bearings and I don't think is a standard size bearing, I think All Balls have them in their bearings kit other than that Honda OE part. Or if in the UK try wemoto. https://www.wemoto.com/bike/honda/nc/750/2015/15253/rear-wheel-bearing-kit-by-slinky-glide

Forgive my ignorance please I've been through this ..thread In this video the guy mentioned that he was going to replace ALL THREE bearings Are there THREE? Are they all the same ie. 6204 2RS and will the ref number do it or do I have to specify that i want "deep groove single row ball bearings" Ibelieve he does mention a 3rd bearing insid the wheel and that one is a different size... any advice on the specs or code for that please? I'm pretty sure I can get these in Sheffield from City Seals & Bearings .but they are presumably not bikers and

I'm quite lucky really. I bought a bench years ago. It was then transferred to my sons garage/workshop which is, pretty much, fully equipped. No way I can work on the bike(s) without a bench these days.

Yes, I've got a load of good stuff garnered over a lifetime of amateur spannering and also plumbing, decorating, gardening, beer and wine making, IT stuff, photography etc . Trouble is my descendants are not interested and my wife sees it as junk mostly. It's not helped by her divesting herself of similar re her own interests. We were going to move 2-3 years ago but changed our mind - got rid of a load of stuff, a lot of which of course I then needed....🧐

It gets even sillier with more than one bike on the same policy. Whatever I put down - they ask - the odds are that I'll do more miles than stated on one and less on the other. It knocks the golden mileage band argument on the head if I ride the total specified mileage... Crazy - I just say the same every year.

No sewer-ant actually knows my bikes odometer readings, they don't ask. With the exception of the new one they couldn't tell if I did 5000 last year and 2 this year or vice-versa. Don't assume low miles helps though. There seems to be a sweet spot at 2-3000 a year where they think you get enough practice but don't ride in every rush hour. I would never "remember" to tell them if I was getting close, honesty does not pay. Andy

I found you got to get the right tension on the mirror lock nuts ..still you get there in the end . Very interesting what you did being honest with Bennets and mileage estimate.What if for some reason you hardly used the bike and after 5 months and it only had 300 miles on the clock.Would we be able to downgrade the mileage estimate !!!!!

That’s on my mind too. I’ve already started to get rid of things that I rarely use. It is a sad process, each item has a story to tell, but only to me, to others it is just junk. I still use hand tools that I bought when I was sixteen, usually from shops in Sheffield, that felt like Aladdins cave to me, like Marples chisels, Moore and Wright micrometers and even a rare Joseph Rogers penknife. My lathe is an old but cherished Myford ML7, still in perfect working order. It is small for heavy jobs, a modelmakers machine really. I can’t bear the thought of such things going to landfill or to peopl

I should have bought a bike lift years ago - I wish I had. For me, given the likely small number of years left to do any spannering it's not worth it now and potentially it's just more stuff my wife or family would have to dispose of when I'm dust. A good mate of mine had one. We used it to change the gearbox on my R1100RS a few years ago, a job that I would not have attempted without a lift, though I did the rear pivot bearings easily enough with the bike on its mainstand. I was a bit bendier then. He got rid of it in the end because of the space it took up.

I've since put the old battery on the Optimate and there have been no further issues. Old battery holding its charge too. Happy I've replaced it though even if it's just for peace of mind.

My Optimate 2 started red lighting on me. started doing all the checks and was confused, all OK. Then the connecting plug fell off. May not be your battery.

The ridiculous price for servicing is the main reason I don't change bike. I can do the valves, change the coolant, air filter and oil and filter in less than 3 hours. The oil and filters around £55, halfords silicate free coolant about £15. I don't enjoy spannering but hey-ho if I want to ride I don't have a choice.

I would agree strongly. My skeleton objects to any other position than lying down, standing or sitting. I constructed and installed a bike lift even before returning to biking. The table is completely flush with the garage floor until I want to raise it. The detachable front wheel clamp simply bolts to the table with 4 x M16 screws, so I just drive the bike into the clamp, and get off, no centre or sidestand required. The table rises hydraulically to a maximum of 1.5 m on a telescopic, heavy-wall square 120mm x 120mm tube that prevents rotation or any other movement. In any position the t

Best tool I ever bought Andy. Makes working on the bikes so much easier. Mines a 15 year old ARE hydraulic one. Its been worth its weight in aching joints.

After breaking a few clips that are actually part of the side panels on mine she will be dealer serviced - the cost of the side panels and rewrapping them will far outweigh the cost of the service. A metal knee and arthiritis in the other means that getting down to even adjust the chain is downright painful, so an hour or two messing about, taking panels off, adjusting bits and building her back up would probably have me throwing the bike in the local canal. Strangely enough swapping out brake discs or changing the oil on the Landy are theraputic - done either lying down or standi

The valve clearance checking and adjustment in itself is straightforward but it's easier to swing the radiator out of the way. I changed the coolant at the same time when I did mine. The only real PITA in terms of access is the air filter. The amount quoted is not out of order, provided they actually do everything they should. A dealer would do the job more quickly than me because they work on these bikes often. I didn't keep mine long enough to do the work automatically like I have done with the bikes I liked and kept. Even so the hourly rate and hours needed by the workshop will cost,

I guess that main dealers have a fixed price for a service or each job. I bought by NC new a couple of years ago and the first service was at a main dealer. I think the charge was around £200 for what I consider to be a minimalist job. Dealers are not a charity but there is a limit to what we are prepared to pay. I do all of my own servicing. Most of the servicing jobs on an NC are not too difficult although they may take you a little time especially if you have to remove panels, etc. Plenty of information 0n how to do these jobs on the Internet. Try a search on youtube.

Ouch. Mine is fast approaching, I am going to take it to my independent garage and will see what the quote is.

I have a few bikes on optimates, and the cheapo old Oxford equivalents, and have had one of two batteries go dud over the years. The last couple of years I've had the optimates on old fashioned plug in timer sockets (mainly as I had some lying about and the bikes are at my lockup where I'm paying 45p per kW) and have had no issues. Probably coincidental but I now use most of mine with timers. Another +1 for Tanya batteries, I've also used Motobat and found those ok but quite expensive. My older Enfield 500 ran a lithium battery just fine and I'll swap any 'keeper' tomorrow when

Got my new battery from Tayna. Have used that company before and they're brilliant. New battery cost £36.35 which included DHL next day delivery. Perfect.