limp Mode -so which fuse do we look at? Where?

[bazza 3,629]

i have read the various geek replies re limp mode - but on a practical level

 

Riding through Wildernessville and it happens - bike looses power and starts stuttering etc

I know where the fuses are - well the ones inside the frunk

 

So is that where I check?

 

a non electrical reply please -so we who are electrically challenged know what to do!

 

bazza

[kharli 100]

I've only got into limp mode with a flattish battery. Its either an electrical connection problem or you should have it diagnosed with a plug in

try charging your battery up disconnected,reconnect and see if its better.

[fred_jb 10,265]

i have read the various geek replies re limp mode - but on a practical level

 

Riding through Wildernessville and it happens - bike looses power and starts stuttering etc

I know where the fuses are - well the ones inside the frunk

 

So is that where I check?

 

a non electrical reply please -so we who are electrically challenged know what to do!

 

bazza

Hi Bazza,

 

I will try to make this as non-geeky as possible!

 

Yes - just take the lid off the fuse box which lives behind the battery cover panel in the frunk.   This lid has a nice little diagram on the top of which fuse is where, and clipped on the underside are a set of spare fuses.  Of course if you have a persistent fault and put a new fuse in it will probably just blow again, so check for any obvious damage to electrical bits that are not working before replacing the corresponding fuse, but in the case of a one-off mystery fuse popping event, this should get you going again.  Worth taking a few extra spare fuses with you on any long trip.

 

Fred

[MikeBike 5,006]

I tried once to look at the fuses when I was connecting something to the battery, but couldn't even work out how to get the fuse box cover off...

Any tips please were to pull, push etc welcome.

[Guest bonekicker]

If the only fuses spare and are rated low--a piece of 4" nail will do---none geeky fix-----No Dont--being silly

[bazza 3,629]

Thanks all

I haven't got a problem - my bike daren't after the guru wired it! But I am just thinking ahead IF it happened -usually somewhere at night, in the rain, in  a country with no mobile reception -where they don't speak English or pidgeon French!

so rather than bleat to Honda - in the morning after - it seems a good idea to suss out what will go and where it is!

I tried once to look at the fuses when I was connecting something to the battery, but couldn't even work out how to get the fuse box cover off...

Any tips please were to pull, push etc welcome.

If in limp mode maybe you couldn't pull it off -or the skin of a rice pudding?

[fred_jb 10,265]

I tried once to look at the fuses when I was connecting something to the battery, but couldn't even work out how to get the fuse box cover off...

Any tips please were to pull, push etc welcome.

Hi Mike,

 

It is a bit awkward to remove, but basically it seems to have clips at top and bottom, so if you sqeeze in the centre at the top and bottom simultaneously and wiggle it about a bit it should be possible to lift it off.

 

Fred

[steelhorseuk 1,693]

Here is a tip whilst we are on the subject.  

 

From time to time just go and tighten your battery terminal connections. Especially if your heading off on a long trip.

 

They do work themselves loose over time and if they work loose the ECU will go into 'limp mode' without any other symptoms.

 

It happened to me on a tour of the South coast of England. Bike just went into low power mode. Nothing else and no apparent reason for it.

 

I first suspected the fuel but I made it to Brighton, opened the cover to check the fuses.

 

I just checked the battery connection as you do and noticed straight away the terminal connections were too loose for my liking.

Light bulb moment, surely not but, yes, that was all it was! 

 

-Mark-

[baben 11,782]

Darwin awards has the tale of a chap who replaced a blown fuse on his pickup truck with a .22 round (he was on his way back from frog plinking). The round went off as he was crossing a bridge. Luckily I don't think he went into the river - unluckily the bullet hit his testicles. Kermit's revenge"!

[Guest bonekicker]

How many old cars ---can you remember that had the silver foil from a fag packet--rapped around a fuse--as a so called temp repair--that lasted for years?? 

[bazza 3,629]

Thanks for that Smugger -  seems odd after years of batteries having the bolt/nut type connector that they should have a loosening problem.Ok cars have the push on type -they have more room - but how about a simple solution (gurus's?) i am thinking to simplistically about spring washers?

[embee 7,288]

Decent quality batteries come with plated brass bolts (i.e. the bolt is brass and it's plated to protect it, not a brass plated steel bolt). It used to be lead plating, not sure if that's still allowed, maybe it's more akin to solder tinned these days?

It's easy to overtighten these and cause them to yield, then they may have a tendency to come loose. Providing the surfaces are smooth and flat, not heavily deformed due to previous ovetightening, a moderate nip should be enough. If the surfaces are dished due to overtightening then they tend to loosen more easily.

Generally speaking spring washers don't stop relaxation, they just stop the nut falling off once it's loose, if it's properly tight the spring washer is completely flat anyway.

 

Also if the battery is able to jiggle about it will shake the cables and may tend to loosen them. Make sure the battery is secured with straps etc as intended.

 

Clean, flat faces, moderate nip.

[fred_jb 10,265]

If the only fuses spare and are rated low--a piece of 4" nail will do---none geeky fix-----No Dont--being silly

There was a time when that would have been possible with the old tubular cartridge type fuses, though I seem to remember the temporary replacement of choice being a bit of screwed up silver foil, as at least that would stand a chance of vaporising and preventing a fire in the event of a serious fault!   Don't know what you would do with these mini and micro blade fuse things - maybe bend up a paperclip and insert one end in each slot?

 

Disclaimer:  Joking aside you really shouldn't replace a fuse with anything which is not fusible (meltable) as if there is a fault the circuit could then draw unlimited current and damage the battery and/or wiring loom.  Far better to use a higher rated fuse as a temporary measure if that is all you have, as it will still provide some protection.

 

Fred

[Guest bonekicker]

The battery connection do not have too come loose---they can corrode--and lose contact--as above strip down clean faces--put some Vaseline on the faces and re tighten--not too tight 

[fred_jb 10,265]

How many old cars ---can you remember that had the silver foil from a fag packet--rapped around a fuse--as a so called temp repair--that lasted for years?? 

Missed this post of yours when I was rambling on later in the thread about silver foil. We must be of a similar vintage!

 

Fred

[trisaki 2,029]

If you are connecting other connectors to your battery get slightly longer battery bolts honda ones are a smidge short and only just do up and do come loose

[bazza 3,629]

Do they sell vaseline in bike shops -or do you blush at the chemists instead?

how about coppaslip.

 

bazza

[kayz1 2,928]

coppaslip is a no no on a battery....dissimilar metals and electrolysis and all that...Fred will be along shortly to correct us all...  Fred!

Lyn.

[fred_jb 10,265]

coppaslip is a no no on a battery....dissimilar metals and electrolysis and all that...Fred will be along shortly to correct us all...  Fred!

Lyn.

I really don't know, and have never had that many problems with battery terminals, though in the old days on cars they used to fur up a bit - presumably from the acid fumes released from unsealed batteries in those days.   I've read the advice to put some vaseline on - though always wondered if that was OK or if it could tend to act as an insulator and increase the resistance of the contact.   I used to give the old lead terminals a light rub with some emery paper and leave it at that!

 

Coppaslip has copper particles in it, but I think more for heat resistance than electrical conductivity, so not sure what effect it would have, but I guess there could be some electrochemical reaction depending on what metal the battery terminals and cable connectors are made of.

 

Fred

[embee 7,288]

The copper flakes in Coppaslip are a solid lubricant to avoid seizure. If/when the grease carrier dries out the flakes remain between the steel/iron surfaces, so when you come to undo it the copper, being soft, will shear and also prevent the steel surfaces coming into contact and micro-welding, leading to surface tearing and galling. There can potentially be dissimilar metal issues with certain items, steel fasteners in alum alloys shouldn't really use copper based anti-seize compounds, there are aluminium/graphite based products for this. Similarly there are nickel based products for stainless steels. Copper is intended primarily for steel/iron, but of course we all use it in other applications. I do have alum based stuff for brake calipers etc (Loctite 8060 paste stick, very user friendly and convenient).

 

Copper will be OK at battery terminals, it will behave largely like brass and is fine with lead, but the grease carrier isn't ideal with an acid environment. Vaseline works quite well, but there are specific battery terminal greases available. I use Dow Corning DC4 dielectric grease, I'm not sure if it's really intended for battery terminals to be honest but I've never had any issues with it. Vaseline if I run out of DC4.

 

I think it's one of those areas where there are ideal products specifically for the application, but in real life you can get away with non-ideal stuff.