Oil change video

[Guest sykospain]

Seeing MotoZombie's quarter-hour How-To video of an oil change on the 700 bike prompts me in my rôle as Shaky-Hands Video Productions Inc., to set to and make a similar routine showing the oil change job on the twin-filter DCT.

 

Meanwhile here's my much-shortened and subtitled version of MotoZombie's footage, all brightness-tweaked so you can actually see what's going on under the bike.  MotoZombie doesn't even have a centre-stand, which makes the job much easier and means you don't singe your mitts on the hot exhaust after you've warmed up the bike to make the old oil drop out easier !

 

https://youtu.be/Gays0Lk5dAQ

 

Hope it helps those riders who might want to save some loot against having the dealer do this straightforward job.

 

Getting ready for the DCT oil change at 6K Km., ( I like sparkling clean oil in my bikes ) it cost me almost eighty snoojits for the necessary stuff for the job - two recommended filters - the DCT extra-fine little filter way down at the bottom of the bike on the rh side is a bespoke item - inc a flask of the actual top-quality recommended oil.  Yes, 80 snoojits.  Am I going to tell the dealer I did it myself ?  Nope.

Edited March 1, 2016 by sykospain

[Derek_Mac 1,404]

 Did I miss the bit about putting the drain plug back in after annealing the washer?

 My humble apologies if I did.

[usabikes 440]

Thanks Alan,

 

FWIW:~

1. I no longer remove the cowl as I can access the filter with a strap wrench easily enough and don't like to do more than I have to! I use STD Honda filter, change every oil change @ 1 year or 10K, whichever comes first.
2. He used a K&N which is the same as Hi-Flo Filtro but costs a lot more 'cos of the apparently extremely expensive nut welded onto it.
3. He should have filled the oil filter 2 or 3 times before offerring it up as the extra oil in the filter doesn't spill out and helps oil get to the bottom end bearings faster. Subtract that amount from the total when filling the rest.
4. I hand tighten about 1/2 turn after the seal first makes contact with the housing. Never seen it weep oil yet.
5. It seems to be very easy for me to overfill - I err on the low side before running and then letting it stand to check the level. Better than over-filled which isn't good for the unit. I always leave it needing about 200ml - low of the top mark on the stick.
6. I fitted a RED (It's faster!) magnetic alloy drain plug and put a bit of grease on the threads when I replace it.
7. It's easier to fill the engine with bike on side stand - even when some of us have cleverly installed a cunning Centre stand!
8. Oh! and I also fitted a big grunty Neodymium magnet to the front of my oil filter because I'm weird

Thanks again for taking the time! You da man...

Edited March 2, 2016 by usabikes

[usabikes 440]

3. He should have filled the oil filter 2 or 3 times before offerring it up as the extra oil in the filter doesn't spill out and helps oil get to the bottom end bearings faster. Subtract that amount from the total when filling the rest.

 

Silly me - the filter's on the return side of the pump and has no affect on how quickly oil gets to the Mains. Twit.

 

It's this infernal heat we have to endure this time of year you see...

[djsb 493]

Where did you buy your oil filters (DCT) from? Did you replace any of the other parts shown here

 

http://www.bike-parts-honda.com/pieces-honda-detail-71540-71540-NC750XDE-2014-E_5_1-NC+750+X+ABS+DCT.html

 

and here

 

http://www.bike-parts-honda.com/pieces-honda-detail-71540-71540-NC750XDE-2014-E_13-NC+750+X+ABS+DCT.html

 

Thanks.

[matt28 401]

What oil we suppose to use?

0W/30 or 10W/30?

[Guest sykospain]

No less than SEVEN O-Rings are detailed in the first of those exploded parts pages.

 

I only ever replace the copper crushables.  My son Tim the Mechanic is known among his technicos at the cop patrol bike maintenance workshop as "The Copaslip King", 'cos he uses a light smear in all sorts of places:  back of a brake pad, heavy-torqued wheel and calliper bolts, frame and suspension fixings, all those sorts of places - stops water and dust;  slows down corrosion.

 

He swears by the AC-50 type of lanolin-based inhibitor spray, of which there are several competing brands, for fork tubes, moving linkages, cable quadrants, lever pivots, etc., etc.  Altho' it doesn't cllaim to be a lubricant, it does seem to keep the dreaded rust-worm at bay a bit longer.  And he asks, why is the old-style tin of SPRAY-grease becoming harder to find ?  OK, it attracts dust, but it DOES make external moving parts move easier.

 

The motor oil for use specifically in the DCT variant has to be what Honda specifies in your Rider's Book.  I paid 40 snoojits just for the 4-liter flask of Castrol "Power1", 4-T 10W-30.

Edited March 15, 2016 by sykospain

[Tonyj 6,907]

Don't you think it's a it queer now that the life of oil has gone up so has the price , long life oil is now + - £10 a litre so you only need to change say in my van every 18000 miles but the oil is over £100 to do :0) very interesting longer service intervals but twice the price , save a trip,to the dealer I suppose