bazza 3,629 Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 Due to mechanical incompetance I managed to slightly dent the rear ABS ring on my 750 and the ABS light is staying on all the time. A new ring is £75 and its only thin metal so thinking maybe get it straightened. Although mechanically incompetant , I am electrically double incontinent - so although our electric guru Fred has given me some suggestions its a bit like asking a women if she wants to help move one of my Rayburns - ie a complete waste of time! so before i throw money at the Honda dealer for a new ring and pulsar unit anyone have any suggestions- put in big writing and small words please! bazza the botcher Link to post
embee 7,288 Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 (edited) As you say, it's not overly strong, so straighten it. If it's just a slight waviness in it you can probably do it in situ, gently lever it against a spacer at the centre (e.g. spindle/bearing spacer) or similar. if it's more a "ding" then take it off so you can place it on a flat surface. Use a soft drift, a piece of wood etc rather than hitting it directly. Trim it down to fit against the slotted section if necessary, depending where the ding is. It doesn't need to be ultra high precision flat, as long as the sensor "sees" it magnetically consistently within tolerances it'll be fine (maybe 0.5mm total run out as a guess, the workshop manual may give a tolerance). If all else fails second hand ones on the auction site are reasonable. Edited April 7, 2016 by embee 1 Link to post
Derek_Mac 1,404 Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 Hammer it (gently) on a flat surface, maybe the top of an Aga? 1 Link to post
Andy m 23,603 Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 (edited) The ECU checks the integrity of the signal from the polewheel by looking at frequency and crossing points. It can pick out run out/float by taking the raw signal against the square wave it forms internally. Any burrs will create spikes and additional crossing points which will upset it. You have roughly 1mm to play with on flatness/run out combined and about 0.2mm on ferrous burrs. An out of flat polewheel will be exaggerated by any other fault like a wheel bearing going. While I would deny everything if asked at work, press (to avoid burrs) or careful hammering with a flat face! If the warning light goes out, its happy. Only BMW owners believe its worth 40-quid to clear the error memory and sweep all the diagnostic data under the electronic carpet! Andy Edited April 7, 2016 by Andy m 1 Link to post
Mike5100 2,061 Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 I did as recommended above when I bent the ring on my Triumph Rocket. Just pulled it back into position until it looked right and to my surprise after starting up everything went back to normal. Mike 1 Link to post
Guest Lenp Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 Barry,regarding,mechanical incompetence,I am like that ,every time i do something on the bike ,just fitted givi hand guards and givi running lights, and all the time I am saying to my self ,wish I was building a wall or plastering a wall, because if anything goes wrong I know how to fix it...Ride Safe.. Link to post
bazza 3,629 Posted April 7, 2016 Author Share Posted April 7, 2016 The ECU checks the integrity of the signal from the polewheel by looking at frequency and crossing points. It can pick out run out/float by taking the raw signal against the square wave it forms internally. Any burrs will create spikes and additional crossing points which will upset it. You have roughly 1mm to play with on flatness/run out combined and about 0.2mm on ferrous burrs. An out of flat polewheel will be exaggerated by any other fault like a wheel bearing going. While I would deny everything if asked at work, press (to avoid burrs) or careful hammering with a flat face! If the warning light goes out, its happy. Only BMW owners believe its worth 40-quid to clear the error memory and sweep all the diagnostic data under the electronic carpet! Andy thanks i dont understand most of what you said but then we dont have much electrocity in an Aga! Link to post
bazza 3,629 Posted April 7, 2016 Author Share Posted April 7, 2016 Hammer it (gently) on a flat surface, maybe the top of an Aga? i think the vitreous enamel ( glass ) surface might not like that! Link to post
Derek_Mac 1,404 Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 i think the vitreous enamel ( glass ) surface might not like that! I was talking about using the hot plate as an anvil, not the enamel surface. 1 Link to post
bazza 3,629 Posted April 13, 2016 Author Share Posted April 13, 2016 I was talking about using the hot plate as an anvil, not the enamel surface. point taken but have mate who makes parts to a tenth of a thou - you don't have a dog and bark yourself! Link to post
kayz1 2,928 Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 Thought you were talking about me then Bazza, then i remembered, i am still working my way down to that. I can manage 2tenths of a thou Lyn. the learner ... Link to post
Derek_Mac 1,404 Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 point taken but have mate who makes parts to a tenth of a thou - you don't have a dog and bark yourself! Eh, since when does using a hammer get classified as precision engineering? 1 Link to post
bazza 3,629 Posted April 16, 2016 Author Share Posted April 16, 2016 Eh, since when does using a hammer get classified as precision engineering? designer hammer! Link to post
fred_jb 10,267 Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 designer hammer! Did you get this fixed Barry? Fred Link to post
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