Replacing brake fluid?

[TJW 44]

Hi guys, 

now this might sound like a really stupid question but given that it's the first time I am approaching this topic and given that I am a very busy man depending on my bike I can't afford to have tiny mistake create a lengthy procedure ...

 

Can I take the two bolts out of the brake fluid lid on the handle bar to replace them with different bolts ---> without having to go through the whole bleeding the brakes stuff ...??? In essence, it would be an In/Out-job as I would take the bolts out and put new ones in.

 

For some background information: I am trying to mount a dash-camera which itself is firmly mounted on a 4mm thick metal plate (the size of the lid of the brake fluid-thingy) and the plan is to use 4mm x 16mm flanged hexagonal bolts (instead of the 4mm x 12mm original bolts) to sandwich the camera-mount-plate and the brake-fluid-lid securely into place.

 

Thanks for your time, help and support.

[Guest sykospain]

I wouldn't start from there if I were you.  The reservoir-lid screws are countersunk for a reason.

 

No - you'd be much better off using the bespoke RAM-ball fixing that's designed for the job on a Honda NC;  it goes onto the handlebar clamp bolts and puts the satnav or Smartphone directly in your line of sight without obscuring the dashboard info display.  And with the uni ball fitment it raises the little screen high enough so you can see it over the top of a tankbag and still without obscuring the dash.

 

I'd go so far as to plug in the earphones then you don't even have to look at the screen - just listen to her instructions.....

Edited August 6, 2016 by sykospain

[TJW 44]

Thanks.

The camera, however, is going to be a permanent installation and can be installed by it sitting on a bolt (hence your proposal won't work).

In addition, the flanged hexagonal bolt I am planning to use is only 2mm, so I can't see it making much of a difference to a countersunk bolt.

[Guest sykospain]

OK TJ, but as far as the 'permanent' aspect is concerned, the advantage of the RAM ball system is that you can pocket the attachment whenever you don't want it to be a donation to a passing, thieving, no-good, rat-faced, scroat...

[TJW 44]

I can't, you see, as the camera is wired to a DVR-unit and the cable can't be detached from the camera. It's the waterproof motorbike version of a 2-camera-system (front and back).

 

The other option is to put it behind the windscreen but I doubt the quality of the recording would be any good.

 

As said, the plan is to mount the camera on a 4mm plate with two bolts (feeding through the plate from underneath to hold the camera in place) and then remove the 2 countersunk M4x12mm bolts which hold the lid of the brake fluid reservoir in place and replace them with two M4x16mm bolts which come with a flanged allen head bolt (2mm head).

 

The trouble is that I don't know if I have to bleed the brake system if I take the lid of (particular because I heard that ABS models are quite different when it comes to stuff like this) when changing the bolts. 

[kayz1 2,928]

You will not have to bleed the brakes if you only remove the lid, but if the weather is damp/rainy...be qwik so as not to allow moisture to enter the system....like lid off for hours while you fiddle.

Some on here has already fitted the front/rear system ( camera ) on the bike, i think the front camera went in the slot in the beak...out of site.

[DaveM59 1,605]

Hi guys, 

now this might sound like a really stupid question but given that it's the first time I am approaching this topic and given that I am a very busy man depending on my bike I can't afford to have tiny mistake create a lengthy procedure ...

 

Can I take the two bolts out of the brake fluid lid on the handle bar to replace them with different bolts ---> without having to go through the whole bleeding the brakes stuff ...??? In essence, it would be an In/Out-job as I would take the bolts out and put new ones in.

 

For some background information: I am trying to mount a dash-camera which itself is firmly mounted on a 4mm thick metal plate (the size of the lid of the brake fluid-thingy) and the plan is to use 4mm x 16mm flanged hexagonal bolts (instead of the 4mm x 12mm original bolts) to sandwich the camera-mount-plate and the brake-fluid-lid securely into place.

 

Thanks for your time, help and support.

First part has been answered - see above post.

Do I understand correctly that you want to simply add a plate on top of the reservoir lid using longer screws through both the plate and lid? If so then I doubt there is a problem as long as the lid is securely fastened.

My only caveat on this is that as you will see when you remove the lid, there is a rubber diaphragm that sits above the fluid which has a flange that is nipped between the edge of the reservoir and the lid to form an airtight gasket. The screws to fasten the lid are not nipped overly tight, just enough to secure the lid and form a seal. The reason for the countersink screws in the reservoir lid is to act as a self locking device by giving a larger surface contact area under the screw head, and also to keep a smooth aesthetically pleasing non-snag surface. If you use hex screws and tighten them too much you could easily either strip the threads in the reservoir or crush and sever the lip that forms the gasket on the diaphragm. I'm guessing the plate has to be very solidly mounted to avoid camera vibration so this may be a problem.

Why not use the mirror mount to support the end of a plate shaped like a luggage label made of a thicker alloy or steel that wouldn't flex. It wouldn't then make topping up brake fluid more difficult.

[TJW 44]

Thanks a lot for that ...

 

It is indeed the same camera (Innovv K1) ... but the problem is my windscreen is 4 years old and has a few scratches, etc. on it and this, for obvious reasons, might impair on the quality of the recording if placed behind the it. I personally have no problem with it being visible (I had a Contour Roam 2) first on my helmet and then on the lid of the brake fluid reservoir) for as long as I can secure it else it will get stolen.

[TJW 44]

If you use hex screws and tighten them too much you could easily either strip the threads in the reservoir or crush and sever the lip that forms the gasket on the diaphragm.

 

Why not use the mirror mount to support the end of a plate shaped like a luggage label made of a thicker alloy or steel that wouldn't flex. It wouldn't then make topping up brake fluid more difficult.

 

Good points, thanks a lot.

[Guest Hati]

By removing two of the four bolts from the reservoir lid you will not break the seal formed by the rubber diaphragm between the container and the lid. I've done my brake bleeding procedure recently and it takes a bit of doing to break that seal with all the bolts out so you should be fine.