Guest garcher Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Morning Guys and Girls, I changed pads front and rear at the weekend. The swap went without a hitch which is nice (for a change). Trouble is the back brake barely works now. The pedal goes a loooooong way down before it starts to do anything worthy. I took some remedial action on Monday when I got to work (yes, slap my wrist I DIDN'T test ride it at the weekend) by loosening the link bar then tightening it again. That raised the pedal up a bit but it still doesn't feel right! I've always thought the back brake was a bit strange feeling but put it down to all the trickery in the NC braking system. It's even completely seized a couple of times (WD40 to the rescue). I'm thinking I'm going to strip the whole thing down, clean it and re-assemble at the weekend just for peace of mind. With all that in mind can any of you guys tell me what your back brake pedal feels like? Mines currently really soft then. when it bits goes rock hard! Cheers Link to post
trisaki 2,029 Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Which model are we talking about 700 or 750 Link to post
Derek_Mac 1,404 Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 (edited) Maybe it's something as simple as bleeding the bleeding thing. Edited June 29, 2016 by Derek_Mac Link to post
Guest garcher Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Which model are we talking about 700 or 750 700x - Is there a difference between the brakes then? Link to post
Guest garcher Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Maybe it's something as simple as bleeding the bleeding thing. That's what I'm hoping, that or a buggered bush or something.. Link to post
DMB 1,341 Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 I have to say my own inclination would be to take it to the menders. Quite handy to have brakes that work. 1 Link to post
steelhorseuk 1,699 Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Assuming you gave the caliper and the pistons a really good clean then it sounds like it could do with bleeding mate. I changed my pads all round recently, a really good clean, purged the DOT4 brake fluid and bled the system. I had no problems after or since. I went over the top changing the fluid of course. But that's me! -Mark- Link to post
Wedgepilot 727 Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 The back brake on my 700x is nice and progressive, which is good as I use it a lot when filtering. A firm press is needed to get full braking. Definitely worth trying to bleed it. 1 Link to post
Tonyj 6,907 Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 My back brake is good , positive feel and action sorry , pads have been changed as well Link to post
Guest Hati Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 700x - Is there a difference between the brakes then? Yup, you have combined brakes, the 750 does not. Link to post
JONO49 201 Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 Which part of the rear brake was siezed?...The piston? the slides? Oh and throw your tin of WD40 in the bin! WD40 has no place near any disc brakes as it's a water dispersant not a lubricant. 1 Link to post
Guest garcher Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 Which part of the rear brake was siezed?...The piston? the slides? Oh and throw your tin of WD40 in the bin! WD40 has no place near any disc brakes as it's a water dispersant not a lubricant. The pedal was seized, well the pivot the pedal pivots on anyway! Link to post
Guest garcher Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 I just noticed this morning that even when I'm just resting my foot on the pedal the back brake is coming on just a bit (confirmed because the disc was blue from the heat when I got to work).. It's looking more like the pedal/pedal pivot and linkage rod more than the actual fluid/caliper. I'll strip it over the weekend and find out what's wrong... Bloody machines! Link to post
fat al 199 Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 if you have taken all the free play out of the linkage rod, the brake will not release fully causing it to stay on slightly and overheat. al Link to post
sullspots 52 Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 Which part of the rear brake was siezed?...The piston? the slides? Oh and throw your tin of WD40 in the bin! WD40 has no place near any disc brakes as it's a water dispersant not a lubricant. I thought wd40 was basically fish oil with a perfume additive? Still got no place near brake components mind. Link to post
JONO49 201 Posted July 1, 2016 Share Posted July 1, 2016 (edited) I thought wd40 was basically fish oil with a perfume additive? Still got no place near brake components mind. Just been reading last night about some spirited riding you were doing in the company of Versys riders,...they were impressed Edited July 1, 2016 by JONO49 Link to post
Guest mrgrumpy2 Posted July 1, 2016 Share Posted July 1, 2016 when i clean my brakes I apply 2 types of grease to the assembly. A thin covering of copper grease to the back of the brake pads and the slide mechanism A thin covering of a rubber friendly grease around the piston seals when i had my yamaha fazer, this was a routine procedure, yet on my nc I have not done this in 2 years of ownership. i have never allowed WD40 anywhere near the brakes Link to post
sullspots 52 Posted July 2, 2016 Share Posted July 2, 2016 (edited) Just been reading last night about some spirited riding you were doing in the company of Versys riders,...they were impressed Ha ha,busted.Had a Versys for years and joined the yearly meet up on my NC.Even though they have a 100cc disadvantage those pesky Versysss can still catch pigeons. Edited July 2, 2016 by sullspots Link to post
JONO49 201 Posted July 3, 2016 Share Posted July 3, 2016 I was looking at one before I bought the NC, what's your apraisal of the two? Link to post
glencoeman 129 Posted July 3, 2016 Share Posted July 3, 2016 If the brake is coming on by just resting your foot on the lever, it sounds like you need a bit more play in the rear master cylinder linkage. Or it could be that the caliper piston is sticking? I had to have a new rear brake caliper (under warranty) as one of the holes had been drilled at the wrong angle making the caliper "lean" to the right (viewed from the rear)i.e. it was not parallel to the disk if that makes sense and as a result, the brake pads were not making full contact on the disk. Link to post
Mike5100 2,061 Posted July 3, 2016 Share Posted July 3, 2016 (edited) Ha ha,busted.Had a Versys for years and joined the yearly meet up on my NC.Even though they have a 100cc disadvantage those pesky Versysss can still catch pigeons.I too had a versys but couldn't make this year's ride out. I did the north York moors versys ride last year though and several of the versys riders said they were very surprised that the NC was right on their tails when they were riding spiritedly. Mind you my theory is that on a frantic bike like a versys with hard suspension and screaming engine you think you are going faster than you really areMike Edited July 3, 2016 by Mike5100 2 Link to post
Mike5100 2,061 Posted July 3, 2016 Share Posted July 3, 2016 Fwiw the back brake on the 2016 bike is pretty excellent compared to my previous 2 nc's. J think on one of mine perhaps the first one I had the same problem described above of a misaligned calliper. At first the braking was absolutely non existent but after 10k miles it was ok presumably because the pad had worn to fit the angle Mike Link to post
Guest Smidsy Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 A bit vigerous with the wd40 maybe and got it over the disc?? Link to post
Guest robin Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 Make sure the pads are seated properly. If they're not, I think, it causes this type of problem. If everything else is normal then I'd try a different type of pad. Be did or EBC HH. Link to post
larryblag 14,236 Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 I was looking at one before I bought the NC, what's your apraisal of the two? JONO49, I had a 650 Versys a few years back (thye mk1). It was a brilliant bike for me (then). Bombproof zx10 derived engine as fitted to the ER6. In a different level of tune though with improved low to mid range (at the expense of a bit of top end). Brilliant handling too once I'd swapped the over-sprung, but under-damped rear shock for a Nitron. The standard upside down forks were ok to be honest. MRA screen worked too with its adjustable aerofoil. 1 Link to post
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