Chains and sprockets

[Guest amiga-mark]

Forgive me if I am trawling over old ground but my work's PC (actually firewalls) do not like this website. And searching returns many 202 errors.

 

I am approaching my 16k service and I reckon I need a new chain (and probably sprockets) although the rear looks perfect when I removed the wheel for new tyres.

 

The links are tight but move, however there is a definate "mechanical" noise at certain speeds and revs (especially noticable when passing a wall or parked vehicles). I also feel a lot more vibration and grumbling under acceleration (gunning it) than I used to.

 

I have been looking at DID 525zvm-x 110 link - which I assume is correct for Integra 700. These seem to be about £120 - £130 for gold, endless ones. 

 

Q1 Does the chain have to be endless for the Integra?

Q2 What are the advantages of gold (apart from bling)?

 

Can anyone recommend the best place to buy from and part numbers for sprockets?

 

Also is it better to buy myself and ask dealer to fit  - or get them to provide parts?  I could probably do it myself "eventually" but without a workshop manual and any experience I would be reluctant.

 

 

[TheEnglishman 401]

I bought an endless chain as I don't have a riviter

I took off the swing arm and suspension linkage at the same time and packed all the bearings with grease.

It took me all afternoon but saved me a small fortune at the garage and I knew the job had been done properly to boot.

The hardest bit is aligning the chain once you get it all back together. And that's not exactly difficult once you've seen a few YouTube videos

[Ralph 67]

I have had several chain & sprocket kits on my 750X. I use biketorque racing. They are well priced and helpful, I am currently running Ognibene and they seem to be pretty good. They also supply a very handy riveting device if you ask

[Guest Mac750]

One other thing I would also check, Your grumbling could be and most likely is the chain. But from looking on this forum it looks like the NC range can suffer from premature rear wheel bearing failure at around 16 to 20 k. It may feel fine with the wheel removed but under load it may show signs of wear.

[michael 324]

My opinion:

 

-chain does not have to be "endless." riveted or master clip (safety wired) can be just as reliable in most  circumstances.

 

-gold is bling. of more importance is the size and tensile strength suitable for the application….now those things are important!

[Guest Mac750]

Many years ago when I had many spots and dark wavy hair, I ran a BSA A10. This was low geared as it pulled a chassis with a tin bath bolted to it, I had no pride and L plates . I also had a scooter as I liked both modes of transport. No girl friend at that time though I wonder if that was related. ?

Anyway the BSA when it ran had loads of stomp and it had a Reynolds chain with a large split link. ( My NC 750 reminds me so much of that BSA ). The Honda is a lot more spritely, but do we need endless chains on a 54hp bike let's say 50 hp at the rear wheel. I'm sure my 550/4 had a split link chain, a D.I.D as I remember cooking it in Linklife in the oven. Mrs Mac750 was overjoyed on her return home from work. Do we need an endless chain on the 700 / 750 ? I dont know but it would be a lot easier to replace when it was worn out.

[Derek_Mac 1,404]

 Mark,

         the owners manual for the NC700D (integra) gives the following specs for the chain and sprockets.

 

 Chain - 520 and 112 links, NOT 525 and 110 links.

 

The sprockets are - Front = 16 Tooth & Rear = 39 Tooth

 

The Honda part Numbers of the sprockets are: Front =  23801-MGS-D30  & Rear = 41201-MGS-D70

 

Edit:  You'll find them at the back of the manual on the last page of the 'Specifications' section just before the index.

Edited October 18, 2016 by Derek_Mac