nc750xuk 91 Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 (edited) Morning all, would anybody be interested in a step by step guide with pictures for changing the airfilter on a 2014 NC750X? I took mine out yesterday for cleaning and took pictures along the way with the intention of doing a guide on here. Its a very simple job really but might make it abit easier for someone? Edited October 16, 2016 by nc750xuk 6 Link to post
embee 7,288 Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 Crack on Kris, we like things like that. You can never have too many "how to" guides. 2 Link to post
nc750xuk 91 Posted October 16, 2016 Author Share Posted October 16, 2016 Ok great, will get something written up and uploaded once im back at the PC Link to post
Guest sykospain Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 (edited) See my video:- Panel removal sequence for the "X" is different - but there's loads of other U-Toob vids showing how-to. Edited October 16, 2016 by sykospain Link to post
Guest Mac750 Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 Anyone taking the panels off a 2016 750x ? Link to post
RussB644 379 Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 Would welcome a 750X guide on that 3 Link to post
Grumpy old man 4,681 Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 Would welcome a 750X guide on that +1 Link to post
Spindizzy 7,109 Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 Worth just to see how the plastics come off when I fit a 12V socket. +1 Link to post
nc750xuk 91 Posted October 16, 2016 Author Share Posted October 16, 2016 (edited) Here we go then. Firstly this is just meant to be a guide and I cannot accept any responsibility for what you do on your own bike. These pictures are from my 2014 NC750X Firstly open the frunk and empty it of any items you may have in there, this will give you abit more room in there. Make sure you keep all screws / items you remove save and in the correct order for re assembly Firstly, remove the two screws holding the battery access cover in place and remove it. Its probably wise to disconnect the battery at this stage ( I didn't! ) Next, undo the Phillips screw on the left-hand side of the frunk Now undo the opposite screw on the right hand side Next remove the four plastic clips from up near the forks, see image below. Note the picture only shows the two on the right hand side, there are two more opposite. To remove them just push down in the centre and pull them out This will now allow you to remove the top section of fairing, gently slide the fairing backwards and upwards until all the clips are free, you should now be able to remove the fairing. This is the same for both sides Both sides of the bike should now look like this Now on the L/H side of the bike, remove the four fixings on the picture below. One Phillips, one Push clip and two cap head bolts, Not underneath the Phillips screw is a plastic spacer not pictured. Once you have undone the screws / bolts you can reach underneath and remove the spacer, noting which way round it goes Remove three fittings on the right hand side panel and remove another spacer from underneath (not pictured) Remove the 4 cap head bolts around the lock assy You should now be able to move the whole assembly containing the frunk lock out the way enough t get access to the air box. Not the cable going to the frunk lock and rear seat release will stop you being able to remove the whole thing completely Edited October 16, 2016 by nc750xuk 3 Link to post
nc750xuk 91 Posted October 16, 2016 Author Share Posted October 16, 2016 Undo the electrical sensor plug from the rear of the air box lid on the L/H side Looking down at the top of the airbox, you need to undo the 6 Phillips screws holding the lid on, there are two here Two more here And two more which you access from above the battery. Be careful not to drop them on removal ! Once you've undone the 6 screws, and the sensor, remove the air box lid itself to reveal the filter itself ! This is what you should be left with the filter removed! Take car not to drop any bits down the intake Now repeat all the steps in reverse order to put it back together again ! Hope this helps 12 Link to post
Spindizzy 7,109 Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 Really good guide. Thanks for taking the time. Link to post
embee 7,288 Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 Tick. Can't be clearer than that. Link to post
ONTWOWHEELS62 1 Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 Good job ! Thank you. Link to post
nc750xuk 91 Posted October 17, 2016 Author Share Posted October 17, 2016 No probs, hope its useful. If like me, you service your bike yourself its worth knowing how to remove the filter. I was daunted by the thought of doing it at first but as you can see its not more than a half hour job. Doing 500 miles a week means i can keep the service costs down by doing it all myself 1 Link to post
Guest sykospain Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 Excellent step-by-step with good clear fotos; I assume there can't be much of a difference with the 2016 model ? Tupperware might be slightly changed in shape, but surely the fixing points are much the same... Link to post
RussB644 379 Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 Thanks very much for sharing the knowledge with photos to accompany them I wasn't sure myself about the removal/move of the frunk locking mechanism as so that was helpful to see. Still not sure about undoing the electrical sensor plug from the rear of the air box lid - is that a push fit for what looks like a plug with those two circular blue end (s)/ wire(s)? Must look up the air filter replacement advice, where did you source the filter for quality/price? Link to post
nc750xuk 91 Posted October 18, 2016 Author Share Posted October 18, 2016 Hi Russ, yeah the electrical connector is just a small latch type, you lift up the small clip and pull the connector apart, it simply then clips back together when your done. As for the K and N filter, I bought mine from them direct for around 50 quid IIRC ? Link to post
Guest Mac750 Posted December 10, 2016 Share Posted December 10, 2016 Having seen the info above posted by NC 750XUK ( many thanks ). I set to work and removed the body work on my 2016 750 X. It is very much the same apart from a couple of small things. 1. Having opened the Frunk all the fasteners are more or less as discribed in the pictures posted above for the 2015 bike. But on the 2016 bike at each side of the Frunk is two black Phillips screws which hold the "ears" of the in fill side panels which sit above the large silver panels. The infill panel runs from the Frunk up to below the head light. The only thing that the black Phillips screw is screwed into is a small threaded plastic block. When refitting the screws later do not push hard with the screw driver whilst screwing it back up tight. The little block gets pushed through its retaining hole and bounces away somewhere leaving you with a flappy panel and a useless Phillips screw. The block is tiny and cost £3 to replace from Honda. 2. Once those two Phillips screws are removed go under the beak thing at the front and remove the fasteners recessed in it (one ether side) Then once all visible Allen or Phillips screws are removed the infill panels can be removed after removing the two chromed Allen bolts near the screen. The latch and panels can be unbolted and removed still attached to the cables and access to the air cleaner is as shown above in the pictures for the 2015 bike. 4. To remove the whole side panel all other fasteners are visible with careful examination and the whole lot comes off in a large chunk, be careful as the indicator wires are attached to the loom connector and need to be detatched carefully. 5. This part is of interest if looking for a place to put a switch or indication light for accsessories or alarm LED. The workshop manual discribes under removing all panel work "remove the screen and meter holder to remove the plastic trim that runs across the front of the cockpit area" It can be seen it is only clipped in place and held in place by the only two visible chromed Allen bolts which also holds the infill panel as discribed above. Once those two chrome fasteners are removed you can very slowly and carefully remove or replace the trim in question without removing the screen or digital meter. Just jiggle it out and over the bars carefully. And is an ideal place for a volt meter or other item to be fitted as it is in plain view from the riders position. On the 2015 machine at each side you have near the front a panel which fits under the faring covers see pictures posted above 7and 8. The 2016 bikes don't have this as the Frunk is wider, if anything the body work is easier to remove on the 2016 than on the earlier bike. Link to post
Guest capt.hanky Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 What a great guide. Saved me load of time. Thanks! Link to post
Defender 3,837 Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 Thanks that's good info to have, perhaps there should be a 'How To' section for guides like this? Link to post
Guest John Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 Thanks for the great pictures, it would make everything much easier but I own a NC750X DCT 2017 type. Could it be possible if someone would be so nice to upload some pics how to manage things on? My English isn't that good, so pictures say much more than words ;-) Link to post
Guest sykospain Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 John in Belgium - here's a couple of leads for you, showing new-model X version wrenching :- https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1_Xe0BcCAY6f87wQ8RB7vA http://www.nc700.co.uk/index.php?/topic/12543-2016-nc750x-panels-removal/ Link to post
Guest John Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 1 hour ago, sykospain said: John in Belgium - here's a couple of leads for you, showing new-model X version wrenching :- https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1_Xe0BcCAY6f87wQ8RB7vA http://www.nc700.co.uk/index.php?/topic/12543-2016-nc750x-panels-removal/ Thanks a lot. That second one will do (I hope). Link to post
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