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Doing your own maintenance


Guest kakeyed

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Guest kakeyed

Good day everyone,

   I don't have an NC750x DCT yet, but am in the market for a new scoot in a few months. Lots of reviews, specs comparo and an exhaustive spreadsheet have every indication that the NC750x will be my new bike.

   I'd like to hear from the folks that do their own maintenance. How simple or time consuming is it to do regular maintenance, and at what frequency is it required?

 

   I read that the valves are easy to adjust, only have to be done every 16k miles but can be a pain to get at.

   I imagine that changing tires is not anymore complicated than any other bike, once a center-stand is purchased and installed.

   How about chain & sprocket replacement? It can be biatch to get at some counter-sprockets.

   I can't imagine that an engine oil change is hard to do, unless getting at the drain plug, filler cap or oil filter is difficult.

   How about brake fluids? My GS was a royal pain because special tools were needed for the ABS pump bleeding and the crash bars had to come off in order to get the gas tank off to access the ABS pump.

 

   What are your experiences with maintaining your 700 or 750 (I guess that they are pretty similar) and did I forget any regular maintenance items? Thank you for sharing your wisdom!!

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I have maintained mine since 8k.at nearly 40k now. Oil and filter is an easy job. Valves are time consuming with removal of radiator, but straightforward. Excellent video on you tube. I changed the chain and sprockets on mine at 16k and it was fine, easy to access and undo drive sprocket if you leave wheel and chain on first and have someone to keep rear brake on. Tyres not so easy for me, breaking the bead was impossible for me in my garage so decided to stick to tyre dealers for that.Coolant was easy to change but have,nt done the brake fluid yet. (going to wait 5 years). Mine is in bits just now but that was my fault, created an electrical fault on stripdown. I have a spare set of bearings ready in case I have problems, some folk on here have had premature wear, they are cheap to buy so no worries.  I would say it is a pretty easy bike to maintain and cheap to run.

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Dunnster

I've done all the maintenance on mine since the dealer warranty ran out. Never done valve adjustments before, read some advice on this forum, was an enjoyable day cracking on with it taking my time and as Crofty said, only time consuming due to moving the radiator, I also changed the coolant at the same time. Straightforward enough. Oil and filter piece of cake. Air filter is easy, just the removal of panels to get access to, but it's no worse than removing fuel tanks on some bikes. Just got the brake fluid to change next year and possibly the chain and sprockets, that will be most major things covered. 

2nd Crofty, easy to maintain and cheap to run. 

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Guest bonekicker

Kak there are no hidden problems at all to be aware of--as the model as progressed any upgrade or problem as been sorted out--the NC range is almost bullet proof-- but you have to test ride and make up your own mind.:thumbsup:

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I bought mine with 2k miles on it. and have done all the servicing/maintenance since. Apart from the plastics on the Integra, the mechanical stuff is straightforward for anyone who has done any bike maintenance. Oil changes exactly as you would expect. The DCT has a small filter for the clutch system, and this is perfectly straightforward to replace, it even has the right way written in the filter element.

 

As said, valve clearances are simple, you just need to remove the rad, but that's no big deal and is a good excuse to change the coolant. Watch the videos. Remember to only turn the engine in the normal direction of travel so you don't risk loading the cam chain tensioner. The spark plugs are iridium as standard and are good for at least 30k miles, probably more like 50k miles.

 

The early rear wheel bearing failures seem to be symptomatic of some sort of quality control issue, either the bearings themselves or fitting procedure damaging them. The failures seem to have been typically around 20-25k miles rather than a random distance. Most bikes don't suffer the issue and the bearings are typical of bike wheel bearings, so no reason why they should be a regular issue. If you're able to fit new ones yourself then just keep an eye on them, don't let it put you off the bike.

 

As with any vehicle using modern electronics they don't like poor connections. Many niggly or intermittent problems which are being reported are typical of dirty connections or loose battery terminals etc. I've had a classic case of tarnished connector pins which prevented the bike starting.

I'd suggest going round as many connectors as you can get to, including fuses, take them apart and add contact cleaner and a suitable lube (dielectric grease, ACF50 or similar). Make sure battery terminals are clean and tight, and check/clean the common earthing point on the frame near the front right of the rider's seat. Several folk have reported the dash connector causing fault lights, just needs cleaning/refitting securely.

 

I'd suggest also greasing all the rear suspension link bearings, easy enough to do with a centrestand fitted, and if you have the resources also the swingarm bearings, it's not difficult and doesn't require any special tools. If you feel happy also do the steering head bearings, there isn't a huge amount of grease used in the factory.

 

 

Brake fluid change is straightforward in my experience. I use a Mityvac vacuum bleeder (other types are available) and strongly recommend them. You can suck the old fluid out of the reservoir, add fresh, then bleed it through at the caliper nipples. Make sure you don't get air into the system (keep the reservoir topped up) and there are no issues with the ABS system. The Mityvac makes the procedure so easy it means you will do it more regularly, in which case the fluid never gets so old that it's a problem.

Edited by embee
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Guest klauzero
On 19.11.2016 at 20:21, kakeyed said:

Good day everyone,

   I can't imagine that an engine oil change is hard to do, unless getting at the drain plug, filler cap or oil filter is difficult.

 

Yes, oil and filter is an easy job (with good tutorial) - like my own :)

 

 

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Guest kakeyed

Thanks for all the great info Dunnster, bonekicker, embee and klauzero! Excellent info.

 

I can imagine that if Honda has put Iridium plugs as standard, they must be a bit if a hassle to get at  - probably best to do at the same time as one of the scheduled valve adjustments.

 

And looking at klauzero's video, I can understand why embee suggests to pack connectors with dielectric grease; specially the 3 x connectors at the bottom of the engine near the clutch filter. They look well made and sealed, plus there is a lower cowl to protect them, but I'd definitely feel better with added protection there.

 

I know Hondas are usually well engineered and built, so there is nothing that I have read here or on this forum that would scare me away from an NC750. I'm still narrowing my choices down, but the NC750x is looking better all the time. Like I've read somewhere on the NC : "So, to sum it up, you have a scooter's mileage, a motorcycle's performance and a car's maintenance schedule. Now that's a nice bike!".  

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43 minutes ago, kakeyed said:

I can imagine that if Honda has put Iridium plugs as standard, they must be a bit if a hassle to get at  - probably best to do at the same time as one of the scheduled valve adjustments.

 

And this is exactly what is wrong with assumptions.

 

The plugs are very easy to get at, even on the Integra (just one panel to remove). Honda even supplies a plug socket since they are quite deep in. Cannot be made any easier for you.

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Guest sykospain

Kak - I like the quote you mentioned : - "...a scooter's mileage..." etc.  Was that from a bike mag review ?

And where on earth is Canuckistan ?

The Honda NC range of bikes is the cannine's cojones....

 

The other day I forgot the Spanish word for 'seat cushion', which is 'cojin'.  The bar-terrace chairs are a touch hard on the derriere, and so I asked the bartender girl if she had any cojones.  I got a very strange look...

Edited by sykospain
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"Canukistan" is, I think, Canada. But I may have that 'round me neck'.. :D

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19 minutes ago, Tex said:

"Canukistan" is, I think, Canada. But I may have that 'round me neck'.. :D

I thought it might be the rough end of Sutton Coldfield, but apparently not.

 

Apologies Kak, and welcome along. You'll get some sensible answers eventually!

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Andy m

Is there a smooth end of Sutton Coldfield?

 

I liked the video. They edited out the bit where you burn your wrist on the exhaust and the drain plug drops into the waste oil can though.

 

Andy

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Guest kakeyed
On 11/21/2016 at 17:31, Hati said:

 

And this is exactly what is wrong with assumptions.

 

The plugs are very easy to get at, even on the Integra (just one panel to remove). Honda even supplies a plug socket since they are quite deep in. Cannot be made any easier for you.

I assume that you've done it, because I just got back from looking at one, and it looks to me that the radiator has to come off, or at least be swung forward and up.

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Derek_Mac

  The brake fluid is easy to change and bleed after the change even with ABS.

The biggest pain is moving the rear reservoir into the position required for topping it up etc, even that isn't diffult if you have the correct size of sockets/spanners.

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Guest kakeyed
On 11/22/2016 at 08:58, embee said:

I thought it might be the rough end of Sutton Coldfield, but apparently not.

 

Apologies Kak, and welcome along. You'll get some sensible answers eventually!

 

No need to apologize, embee. I didn't expect sensible answers - I know that sensible left this galaxy the day Forest Trump got elected. Or was that Donald Gump? Whatever - the moron the took over from Obama.

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Guest kakeyed
7 minutes ago, Derek_Mac said:

  The brake fluid is easy to change and bleed after the change even with ABS.

The biggest pain is moving the rear reservoir into the position required for topping it up etc, even that isn't diffult if you have the correct size of sockets/spanners.

 

Good to know. That doesn't sound like much of a problem. Probably takes an extra 5 minutes. Thanks for the info, Derek_Mac

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Derek_Mac
38 minutes ago, kakeyed said:

 

No need to apologize, embee. I didn't expect sensible answers - I know that sensible left this galaxy the day Forest Trump got elected. Or was that Donald Gump? Whatever - the moron the took over from Obama.

 

 Ah, you're talking about OrangeMcTripleChin then. :(

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1 hour ago, kakeyed said:

I assume that you've done it...

 

No, I just pulled the comment out of my ass for kicks and giggles :P

 

1 hour ago, kakeyed said:

...I just got back from looking at one, and it looks to me that the radiator has to come off, or at least be swung forward and up.

 

OPEN YOUR EYES :P Assumption IS the mother of all stuff-ups...

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Guest kakeyed
2 hours ago, Hati said:

 

No, I just pulled the comment out of my ass for kicks and giggles :P

 

 

OPEN YOUR EYES :P Assumption IS the mother of all stuff-ups...

 

I assume you know all about stuff ups. :yes: Thanks for the words of wisdom and all the help

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Ah, the assumptions again... Guess some people never learn. Thanks to people like you there are less and less people willing to help every day. Good job, keep it going :P

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Guest kakeyed
4 minutes ago, Hati said:

Ah, the assumptions again... Guess some people never learn. Thanks to people like you there are less and less people willing to help every day. Good job, keep it going :P

 

I'll assume that you had a traumatic experience with the word assume as a child.

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