Slowboy 20,559 Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 (edited) Argh, why do we pay them... for the last year I have been doing all my own maintanance on the bike. I have just reached the point where I was going to sit down and get on with doing the valves. It was all going well until I tried to remove the cover that gives you access to the hex head to turn the crankshaft. It was a bit tight, in fact so tight the hex in the centre of it just crumbled. Luckily I have a bit of an engineering background and managed to cut a slot in it an drive it round using a punch. It is now needing a replacement, which I bet is a special order. Some blooming hulk in the dealers who did the last valve check must have murdered it up good and tight. At least I'm in there now and can get on with the valves and repaint the valve cover and rad ends while the bits come. My next option was to take the left hand engine cover off and put it up in the lathe to machine it out. Shouty crackers doesn't even come close. Bit if a tip for anyone who might be about to do the same job, without the special tools to extract it if the centre fails, try putting some heat on it with a hot air gun, I used my black and decker heat gun set on 1 for a minute or so,it seemed to help, and the paint stayed on the casing. I might go into the workshop and ask where they keep their whizzy bow ties and sideshow Bob safety boots Grrrrr Brian Edited January 4, 2017 by slowboy Tha aplyants ov spelin 5 Link to post
embee 7,288 Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 Good news is that it's a common part with a gazillion other Honda models. https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/microfiches-recherche_piece-90087-MR1-000.html Bad news the list price is £13 odd. 1 Link to post
shiggsy 529 Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 Yeah, had the same problem with mine, had to use a punch and hammer it round, was really worried it was going to slip and put a nice long scar along the side of the engine. 1 Link to post
Guest bonekicker Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 They use Air Tools these days--to speed up the job--they don't set torques any more--your engine is just a lump of metal --do your own work if at all possible--why do we all think these auto techs have some great skills ?? and we have none---we have or can learn skills--the need to care about what you are doing is important--and pride after a job is just --priceless---- and saving money is a bonus. Link to post
Slowboy 20,559 Posted January 5, 2017 Author Share Posted January 5, 2017 10 hours ago, embee said: Good news is that it's a common part with a gazillion other Honda models. https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/microfiches-recherche_piece-90087-MR1-000.html Bad news the list price is £13 odd. Thanks Embee, I ordered mine last night after the grumbling had died down a bit. As someone who used to train apprentices and grads, it's a bit disappointing to know you've paid nearly £100 per hour for this level of jackass. Ah well, I might as well strip and grease the rear end while I've got the time. Every cloud..... Brian 1 Link to post
Guest aldmannie Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 Could have been corrosion in the threads? Both the Hondas I've had in recent years have had a total absence of any sort of locking/anti-seize compound on the fasteners. Link to post
Slowboy 20,559 Posted January 5, 2017 Author Share Posted January 5, 2017 No, no evidence of corrosion or deformation in either the internal or external threads, Nor on the mating faces, they were clean as a whistle (used to spend part of my life inspecting threads). Just cackhandedness. There is an O seal on the outer face and the alternator runs in oil, so the threads are pretty well protected internally. No sign of corrosion on the mating faces either. I will pop a bit of red rubber grease on the O seal and mating face on reassembly. At least the valves are done now. Brian Link to post
Trev 18,809 Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 Out of interest, did the valve clearances need any adjustment and how many miles since the last check? Link to post
CFB 4,602 Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 Had the same with the cam timing cover. It's plastic! And a buggy to get off with engine in frame. Even worse to refit trying to get feeler gauge in there too. 1 Link to post
Slowboy 20,559 Posted January 5, 2017 Author Share Posted January 5, 2017 (edited) 2 hours ago, Trev said: Out of interest, did the valve clearances need any adjustment and how many miles since the last check? Trev, all the valves needed a slight tweak, say 0.02 to 0.03 tight, they were last adjusted at 16k and checked at 24k just under a year ago with no adjustment required. Bike has now done 28700 miles. Lots less in a year since I stopped work. The bike is Four and a half years old. Edited January 5, 2017 by slowboy Link to post
Slowboy 20,559 Posted January 5, 2017 Author Share Posted January 5, 2017 1 hour ago, CFB said: Had the same with the cam timing cover. It's plastic! And a buggy to get off with engine in frame. Even worse to refit trying to get feeler gauge in there too. Yes Clive, really looking forward to putting it back, at least it wasn't tight.... Brian Link to post
Trev 18,809 Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 7 minutes ago, slowboy said: Trev, all the valves needed a slight tweak, say 0.02 to 0.03 tight, they were last adjusted at 16k and checked at 24k just under a year ago with no adjustment required. Bike has now done 28700 miles. Lots less in a year since I stopped work. The bike is Four and a half years old. Thanks Brian, helpful and reinforced my decision not to look at the clearances this year. I had mine checked at about 18k two years ago and they didn't need any adjustment, now on about 25k (can't actually remember as I'm sat here at work and not retired so can't nip out to the garage) so I'll leave them to next year at least. About time we organised another meet, maybe early March with the hope of warmer weather and to coincide with me taking a bit of time out? Link to post
Guest CharlieDelta Posted January 6, 2017 Share Posted January 6, 2017 Hi Brian Good point about those caps - large diameter threads and only small and shallow recess for the tool. Went out to sort mine while the bike is still new and its in my mind - regrease and retorque. At first it seemed loose, then tight, then loose again ...euuugh this is not good Crap, and I've got a ride tomorrow. Going to have to take a chance with my box of cheapo chinese orings (£7 for 400!) Look forward to another ride out - plenty of good venues down here in Hampshire. Link to post
Tex 36,817 Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 If it ain't broke - don't fix it.. But at least you're well equipped. 1 Link to post
Guest sykospain Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 Love the O-rings set. Item number please ! Link to post
Guest CharlieDelta Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 Type 'oring kit' in the usual places. Item number: 361373810777 But I think they are designed for plumbing - if I have oil all over my boot by the end of today's ride I'll let you know. In which case it will be one up for Tex's philosophy of 'if it ain't broke...' But me I like to free up as many over-tightened fasteners as I can see on any new bike while in the warm of my garage and before they completely seize. Link to post
Tex 36,817 Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 24 minutes ago, CharlieDelta said: But me I like to free up as many over-tightened fasteners as I can see on any new bike while in the warm of my garage and before they completely seize. I was only messing around, and, actually, agree totally! First thing I did when I got the NC was remove the wheels and copper slip the spindles. I did a few other bits too, come to think of it. Link to post
Tonyj 6,907 Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 The correct term is brokefixed-it. It's when it seems a good idea and it turns to shit :0) Link to post
CFB 4,602 Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 10 hours ago, Tex said: If it ain't broke - don't fix it.. But at least you're well equipped. Or... if it won't move, force it. if it breaks, it needing replacing anyway. Link to post
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