Andy m 23,702 Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 I've been changing tyres and thought I'd post my notes for anyone trying the same [/url] To avoid any legal action by Haynes I use the barsteward level of difficulty rather than spanners. I'm rating this "Donald Trump" as the brake calliper is full of spring clips that ping off into the dark recesses of the garage. I much prefer callipers that have separate pad retainers and mounting bolts. The front version is WIP. Andy 8 Link to post
Andy m 23,702 Posted March 7, 2017 Author Share Posted March 7, 2017 I filled the end of the swing arm with grease as the chain adjusters are rotting. A black mark against HondaSan IMHO. Andy Link to post
Andy m 23,702 Posted March 8, 2017 Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 The front is far easier Andy 2 Link to post
Mikdent 4,070 Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 That's like an IKEA instruction list, just pics but yet easy to understand. Id like to see that format used on how to remove the body panels, I've never removed one but have read that they are a right pig with different sized fasteners etc. So so when you've got a spare '5 minutes' Link to post
Guest Mac750 Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 It's exactly like Ikea I removed all the panels then put it all back, it looks a neat job. But I have two black 8 mm Nuts with inbuilt washers left over and cannot see where they came from. Nothing is loose or rattling so they must be one from each side. Am I taking it all off to find the fixing and put them back on? Am I €¥©∆√π 😵 Link to post
Guest bonekicker Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 The car and bike mechanic over the road--as boxes and boxes full of nuts bolts and fasteners he did not see were they came from !!!! and he charges £95 per hour--do I go to him for repairs??? I think not---would I recommend him?? No Mac please strip it down again and find just were these 8mm nuts belong--Honda would not have fitted them if not required--this is why--if ever in doubt take some pics as you go --there should nothing left in your bits tray--except toffee papers--half eaten dried up butty--a few fag ends--spilt tea stains--and soggy service manual. Link to post
Guest bonekicker Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 Andy excellent advice --instructions and pics too--thanks for taking the effort 10/10 Link to post
Andy m 23,702 Posted March 9, 2017 Author Share Posted March 9, 2017 (edited) Wee parts. I keep thinking I have two from the NC, but they are the ones that are supposed to hold the space wasteing false floor in the luggage space for documents. This is why I use the pie dishes (also I like pies). They start empty and finish empty and you can leave one by each area you are working on. Try not to kick them across the garage floor though! Need to keep my hand in using CoralDraw, so I might as well do something half useful. Andy Edited March 9, 2017 by Andy m Link to post
embee 7,288 Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 1 hour ago, Andy m said: Try not to kick them across the garage floor though! ................ That's the most difficult part of the job usually.............. 1 Link to post
DaveM59 1,610 Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 Why is it that you use a spanner, put it down then cannot for the life of you find it again 2 minutes later? I seem to spend more time looking for tools I have only just used than I do using them once found! Just about to remove the front wheel and change the tyre on the Integra. Need to get some clip on balance weights first as I prefer them to stick on ones and it's what is used on there now on the little lip that runs around the rim between the spokes. 3 Link to post
Andy m 23,702 Posted March 9, 2017 Author Share Posted March 9, 2017 (edited) 40 minutes ago, DaveM59 said: Why is it that you use a spanner, put it down then cannot for the life of you find it again 2 minutes later? You have an infestation of spanner frats, or possibly ambitious variants of the smaller chuck key lemming. You need to eradicate them: 1. Clear a space round the motorcycle. This needs to be at least 2 feet wide and free of any flat surface above ground level. This provides a potential killing ground any rodent type creature will be wary of. 2. Place a dark coloured cloth on the workshop floor just outside the killing ground. The contrasting colour shows red to beady little eyes suggesting danger, but will make any movement such as that caused by the orange fur of a thieving frat to be noticed. 3. Arrange the tools to be used on the cloth in way that allows you to immediately spot any that are missing and begin work. 4. At every opportunity return to the cloth and be ready to stamp the brains out of any frat (or lemming) attempting to steal the 13mm. The use of safety or diving boots is suggested. You need to maintain a sufficient lure, so the best way is to keep any tools you are not using on the cloth as a top up. 5. Do not be tempted to use lure tools you are not working with. The lack of your scent makes unused tools unattractive to the nest building frat. Should any carcass turn out to have Tartan fur, don't be tempted to eat it. While a relation of the Lowland Haggis, the flavour of the Spanner Frat is unpleasant and somewhat greasy. Don't worry if you don't catch any, simply depriving them of nest building material will cause them to find alternative accommodation. Good Frat hunting. Andy PS Chuck key lemmings are easily defeated by using string to fasten the chuck key to the drill handle. Their robust digestive systems able to deal with steel from the Stanley to the Chinese has caused evolution to rob them of effective teeth. Edited March 9, 2017 by Andy m 10 Link to post
Tonyj 6,907 Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 All well and good Andy but what's your suggestion to defeat the reverse drill motion phantom. Often practices on your ratchet? 1 Link to post
Andy m 23,702 Posted March 10, 2017 Author Share Posted March 10, 2017 No real solution I am aware of. The MOD tried a couple. If you turn the whole vehicle over mid way through the service this has a mitigating effect, but is highly labour intensive and has health and safety concerns. You can also buy left hand thread self tappers thus avoiding having to switch over the ratchet. These do however wreck the engine at the second service interval. Andy 1 Link to post
Guest sykospain Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 (edited) Andy - just brilliant "How-To". Many thanks - s o useful to have to hand when tire / wheel / chain removal jobs come up. On DCT models of course I presume that the handbrake caliper must also come off. And Mike - those 8mm nuts I think come from the spire-nut captive thingies that fit in little holders on the inside face(s) of the main Tupperware side-panels. And Jerry - There's a U-Toob video on removing X-panels as well as my main S-panels unmounting video. I plagiarised the X-panels removal sequence video from a US biker's rather rambling version, tightening it all up. Just search U-Toob for:- "Honda NC Panels Removal" and all will be revealed. I just wish that other people filming DIY maintenance jobs on motorbikes would use some form of lighting. Everything on a bike tends to be black plastic or back painted metal parts when you start pulling it all to bits, and smartphone cameras just can't see enough detail unless the area it's pointed at is flooded with artificial light. Even here doing jobs in the yard in searingly bright sunlight, I still need an extra light source to be able to see the innards of my bike. Edited March 10, 2017 by sykospain Link to post
Andy m 23,702 Posted March 10, 2017 Author Share Posted March 10, 2017 (edited) For the next installment you will need a bag (I kid you not) of oil and a filter Also possibly duct tape, sticking plaster and for those of a sensitive disposition earplugs and tranquilisers. Andy Edited March 10, 2017 by Andy m Link to post
Andy m 23,702 Posted March 17, 2017 Author Share Posted March 17, 2017 The oil change in a second, but first (as requested) a (tiny) bit of bodywork In order to Andy 1 Link to post
Bigglesaircraft 293 Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 Can I ask, which rear paddock stand do you use, how good and stable is it and which fittings do you use? Link to post
Andy m 23,702 Posted March 28, 2017 Author Share Posted March 28, 2017 I think it's an ABBA. Anyway, basic one off Amazon. It uses plastic L things under the swing arm. Stable enough for the jobs my level of incompetance limits me to. Andy Link to post
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