Caliper Piston

[Joeyjoejnr 96]

Hello all,

 

I need to order some new front brake caliper pistons ASAP.  I stupidly neglected to keep an eye on the front pad and disc wear and as a result my disc is worn uneven with groves on one side.  I have ordered a new disc and pads.  I know from the last inspection that the pistons need replacing also.  I haven't a clue what type piston I need or size? Part number? wemoto have pistons but from what I can tell they are £23 each.  Does this sound right?  Any links to an online shop is welcomed.  Bike is a 2014 NC750X

 

Regards

Joe

[Derek_Mac 1,404]

 Here you go Joe.

 

Edit: Wemoto will be cheaper.

Edited March 10, 2017 by Derek_Mac

[Joeyjoejnr 96]

Thanks Derek.  Looks like ill go with wemoto at £22 each

[trisaki 2,029]

The stainless  steel piston  kits are what I use on my customers  machines  remember  X2 kits   and lube  up the sliding  pins that go inside  the rubber  bellows with rubber  grease not copper  grease otherwise  they will stick 

[Euro 72]

Does anyone know if the calipers were changed for the 2016 750X or are they the same as the 2014 750X please? 

[Trumpet 216]

4 hours ago, trisaki said:

The stainless  steel piston  kits are what I use on my customers  machines  remember  X2 kits   and lube  up the sliding  pins that go inside  the rubber  bellows with rubber  grease not copper  grease otherwise  they will stick 

And make sure it is genuine red rubber grease (vegetable oil based) and not that bicycle crap with added PTFE, its actually lithium based and swells brake seals.

Edited March 10, 2017 by Trumpet

[Derek_Mac 1,404]

11 hours ago, Euro said:

Does anyone know if the calipers were changed for the 2016 750X or are they the same as the 2014 750X please? 

Steve,

           have a play about on Lings online parts catalogue and you should be able to see if they use different part numbers.

[ste7ios 469]

For lubrication you may use Molykote 33 Medium. A 100% silicon grease suggested to me by Molykote for this job.

[ste7ios 469]

Or Molykote G-807. What's available in UK and in small quantity...

[Joeyjoejnr 96]

Ok so I might try and fit the new pistons tomorrow. They came with 2 O rings each. I just plan on popping out the old pistons and then bleeding the brakes. Any tips? Are the O rings handy to remove and replace? 

[trisaki 2,029]

A little  pick type tool will get seals out its obvious  which  one goes  where as different  sizes clean grooves  out I use a Dremel with small wire  brush clean out with a squirt  of brake cleaner I smear a little  rubber  grease on seals and pistons  and don't push Pistons,  fully in otherwise  bleeding  will be a long drawn out affair 

[Joeyjoejnr 96]

8 hours ago, trisaki said:

A little  pick type tool will get seals out its obvious  which  one goes  where as different  sizes clean grooves  out I use a Dremel with small wire  brush clean out with a squirt  of brake cleaner I smear a little  rubber  grease on seals and pistons  and don't push Pistons,  fully in otherwise  bleeding  will be a long drawn out affair 

Great thanks. I'm picking up a spindle tool today so after that I'm good to go. I will never neglect cleaning during the winter months again  

[kharli 100]

On ‎21‎/‎03‎/‎2017 at 08:23, Joeyjoejnr said:

Great thanks. I'm picking up a spindle tool today so after that I'm good to go. I will never neglect cleaning during the winter months again  

 I have noticed my front pistons are a little pitted, is this what you meant by they needed replacement ?.

 

 And Trisaki  ,When you say don't push the pistons fully in ,do you mean no further than flush with the calliper ?  I push mine flush when `freeing` up the pistons and do have some long drawn out bleeding issues .I usually tie my front brake lever fully shut and even then I have to bleed a fair amount from the nipple before an elusive bubble appears . I have heard having an abs unit can complicate bleeding too .

[embee 7,288]

I always recommend the various vacuum bleeder systems, I use a Mityvac but there are others available. See for example https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mityvac-MV8020-Automotive-Bleeding-Silverline/dp/B005O2LQLQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1490189717&sr=8-3&keywords=mityvac+mv8000

There are various versions available, plastic or metal, with/without gauge (not needed for brake bleeding but can be useful for other tasks). If you bleed bike brakes more than once you'll appreciate the outlay.

 

The key is that you can achieve a continuous flow of fluid which will purge air much more effectively than trying to pump it through using the brake lever. I've never had any issues with ABS systems or dual braking on the various Hondas, but with ABS I avoid draining the system, just bleed with new fluid. Another advantage of the vac systems is that you can empty the reservoir before refilling with fresh fluid, so you don't need to take all the old fluid through the system.

[Joeyjoejnr 96]

I refitted the new disc, new pads, new pistons and dust/oil seals. It was my first time using a vacuum system tool. I don't think the connection on the bleed nipple was great with the adapter so I'll try it again tomorrow with just fitting the tube over the nipple. 

 

I have an important question regarding the piston seals. I'm aware that some come with a lip and must be fitted in the correct way around. I spent 20 minutes feeling for a lip but couldn't find one. I'm hoping the seals on this bike are the type with no lip ???? The smaller seal did have a slight grove cut through the centre of it. Anyone confirm that the seals in the nisin caliper can be fitted in any direction?

[Joeyjoejnr 96]

7 hours ago, kharli said:

 I have noticed my front pistons are a little pitted, is this what you meant by they needed replacement ?.

 

 And Trisaki  ,When you say don't push the pistons fully in ,do you mean no further than flush with the calliper ?  I push mine flush when `freeing` up the pistons and do have some long drawn out bleeding issues .I usually tie my front brake lever fully shut and even then I have to bleed a fair amount from the nipple before an elusive bubble appears . I have heard having an abs unit can complicate bleeding too .

Yep my pistons were pitted and had bad corrosion. I made a mental note to have them changed next time I changed the pads. 

[embee 7,288]

1 hour ago, Joeyjoejnr said:

I refitted the new disc, new pads, new pistons and dust/oil seals. It was my first time using a vacuum system tool. I don't think the connection on the bleed nipple was great with the adapter so I'll try it again tomorrow with just fitting the tube over the nipple. 

You will almost certainly draw air in through the threads of the bleed nipple and into the bleed tubing, but this doesn't matter since the flow is always towards the vac bottle and pump. As long as you have some vac applied no air can get back into the brake system. Make sure you don't run the brake fluid reservoir empty, and just keep purging the system and you'll find it will bleed successfully.

 

I find the NC brake feel isn't as "solid" as some non-ABS systems, presumably because of the extra volume of the system, but they feel the same as other ABS bikes I've done.

[ste7ios 469]

You may cover the threads with teflon tape. It's also mentioned in the instructions manual...

[ste7ios 469]

BTW how many ml are usually required for a full flush and air bleeding? Recently I must have used abound 200 ml totally...

[djsb 492]

On 10/03/2017 at 18:49, trisaki said:

The stainless  steel piston  kits are what I use on my customers  machines  remember  X2 kits   and lube  up the sliding  pins that go inside  the rubber  bellows with rubber  grease not copper  grease otherwise  they will stick 

 

 

 

Where can I get hold of a couple of stainless steel piston kits for my 2014 NC750XDE ABS? The front OEM ones have some rust on them and I may as well replace them while I'm putting new pads on.

Edited June 4, 2017 by djsb

[trisaki 2,029]

Can get stainless piston kits for £22.50 ×2  I only use these now   I'm doing an order  this week  if you  want me to add to it have you  got your pads ? 

[makman 975]

WeMoto or Lings. Used for all my bikes.  Pity DavidSilverSpares are not showing the NC on their list, but you can use part numbers with them.

 

You can sometimes rescue pistons with 1200 wet/dry paper and a little bit of tlc.  Invariably you just have to keep on top of maintenance and clean them regularly.  

 

I bought red grease in a tub that will last me a life time and my children's children too.  You only need a smear on the pistons/seals for them to slide smoothly.  

 

Toothbrush and some brake cleaner to scrub them up, a scotch brite sponge to wipe them down.

[rjp996 1,091]

I use CeraTec silicon break lube - tubes are about £3-4 and can be bought from places like Eurocarparts easily. Use it on Pistons and slide pins etc. Easy to get hold of and lasts ages - i put it on with a small art paintbrush