Guest P187 Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 I just picked up a 2012 NC700s with a bunch of touring extra recently for a really good price. It has 24,000miles on the clock. Finding neutral is an absolute pain in the arse! I can generally get it while I'm rolling a few mph, but in start and stop traffic London it's a headache. I've tightened the clutch cable with no joy. Chain is good, no tight spots. I'm pretty sure it's a warped clutch and I plan to buy the EBC complete clutch kit (steels,plates, springs) and do it myself. Does anyone know how much of a job an NC700 clutch plate change will be? Tips appreciated I can't seem to find any replacement engine gaskets online. Do they exist? Big thanks Link to post
trisaki 2,029 Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 (edited) Try a oil change first might have wrong / dirty / too much in it Edited August 22, 2017 by trisaki 1 Link to post
Bigglesaircraft 293 Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 (edited) I find with my 700X that I only need 1st if doing some sort of 'hill' start, it has enough torque with a little clutch slip to move off on a flat surface in 2nd. But I would check the oil first, it can be a major factor for the clutch and gearbox. Edited August 22, 2017 by Bigglesaircraft Link to post
Guest machinman Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 I replaced steels on my 700 a good while ago, easy enough. Just be methodical and mind you don't break the basket when torquing up. The clutch holding tool was unavailable when I did mine, so I did the staked nut up to the same position as before, not recommended!!!! Also, the crank sensor, behind the cover will fit both ways and will stop the bike starting. It's worth noting!! No gaskets involved, a good sealer is all you need. Can't think of any other probs. Keep us all posted🖒 Link to post
Trumpet 216 Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 (edited) Good tip about the oil, if its overfilled it will drag. Clutch drag check : If you had a centre stand, you could check for clutch drag by Engaging first gear, engine running, with the bike on the centre stand, keep the clutch fully pulled in. When the engine is hot the back wheel should not rotate, or only rotate slowly and should stop easily using the back brake. BEWARE trying this though, rotating parts are dangerous. Don't come back and say you tried to stop the back wheel with your hand and lost your fingers in the chain/sprockets ! Edited August 22, 2017 by Trumpet Link to post
Guest P187 Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 Thanks guys. I did the clutch drag test. On centre stand, warmed up. Started the bike Neutral, clutch in, drop to first = No spin I did the test again Neutral, clutch in, drop to first = SPIN! It's almost like there's a 50/50 chance it'll do it *confused* I'm going to syphon oil now Link to post
embee 7,288 Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 I've heard some unpleasant stories about EBC clutch plates disintegrating, but many users are happy, so .......... If you do take the side cover off, I recommend Loctite 5980, excellent stuff. I got it from http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/head-gasket-exhaust-repairs/loctite-si-5980-flange-sealant , it was about the best price I could find and in store so convenient to get. Link to post
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now