pointer2null 106 Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 Going to be changing the chain and sprockets this weekend weather permitting... What size is the front sprocket nut? What is the torque? Thanks Link to post
Dunnster 1,650 Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 Sorry I can't remember the sprocket nut size but here are the torque values. Gearbox sprocket bolt torque 54Nm Rear wheel sprocket nut torque 108Nm Wheel spindle nut 98Nm Hope that helps. Link to post
CFB 4,602 Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 IIRC, the front sprocket nut is 12mm Link to post
Guest machinman Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 1 hour ago, CFB said: IIRC, the front sprocket nut is 12mm Could be 14mm?? Link to post
pointer2null 106 Posted October 13, 2017 Author Share Posted October 13, 2017 Um... ok..... Front sprocket nut on a similar bike is around 38mm and has a torque around 112NM to give an idea. Link to post
Mr Toad 9,022 Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 Are you going for the same number of teeth on the front or going up/down a tooth? Link to post
pointer2null 106 Posted October 13, 2017 Author Share Posted October 13, 2017 same - current ratio seems ok to me for commuting Link to post
pointer2null 106 Posted October 13, 2017 Author Share Posted October 13, 2017 14mm - just had a look., Link to post
kayz1 2,928 Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 Book of words for the 700 says Drive sprocket bolt: qty one: Size 10: n-m 54. ibs.ft 40 Link to post
rjp996 1,091 Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 Changed a few on mine and the nuts have been easy to get off - just remember to loosen the nut before takign the rear wheel off - done that twice and still not learned ;-). I just get my wife to sit on the bike with the rear break on to loosen Link to post
embee 7,288 Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 ... and in case you wonder, the bolt/washer don't clamp the sprocket tight, it remains free floating on the splines, only a mm or so but it is free to float. I use moly60 paste on the splines FWIW. 1 Link to post
michael 324 Posted October 14, 2017 Share Posted October 14, 2017 14 hours ago, embee said: ... and in case you wonder, the bolt/washer don't clamp the sprocket tight, it remains free floating on the splines, only a mm or so but it is free to float. I use moly60 paste on the splines FWIW. great idea, lubing the splines. I've read (I get to read recreationally every now and then) the Honda XL650 tends to chew up the drive splines if not lubed during sprocket changes. I can't see any reason why it couldn't happen with the NC. (yup, I lubed mine as well at the last sprocket/chain change). Link to post
pointer2null 106 Posted October 14, 2017 Author Share Posted October 14, 2017 Still no idea what the torque is for this? Link to post
Mr Toad 9,022 Posted October 14, 2017 Share Posted October 14, 2017 21 minutes ago, pointer2null said: Still no idea what the torque is for this? Posted further up. 23 hours ago, kayz1 said: Book of words for the 700 says Drive sprocket bolt: qty one: Size 10: n-m 54. ibs.ft 40 In addition to the 54Nm for the front the rear axel should be 98Nm, I believe that's what it says in the manual. Link to post
pointer2null 106 Posted October 14, 2017 Author Share Posted October 14, 2017 I saw that - so I guess that size 10 === M10 thread? Link to post
Mr Toad 9,022 Posted October 14, 2017 Share Posted October 14, 2017 4 minutes ago, pointer2null said: I saw that - so I guess that size 10 === M10 thread? I would say so yes. Normally if it's an M10 nut or bolt then it would be 17mm spanner/socket and that used to be the standard, however, I have M10 bolts with a 15mm head so maybe the standard is changing or some manufacturers are making them smaller to save a few pennies per million bolts? On my Triumph Bonneville the front sprocket is held on by a 36mm nut. Link to post
Tex 36,817 Posted October 14, 2017 Share Posted October 14, 2017 I don’t believe it’s a cost cutting thing. I think (but don’t actually ‘know’) the reason for making the head a smaller size is to discourage the careless amateur from over tightening it. A Neanderthal faced with a large nut will heave on it.. Link to post
embee 7,288 Posted October 14, 2017 Share Posted October 14, 2017 It's primarily to save weight/material, but also means lower cost. Might not seem much each, but if you're using a few million bolts a year, every little helps. Plus the use of smaller head sizes means smaller tooling so less space required for access etc. It also works better with flanged (washer faced) fasteners, which usually provide better load distribution under the head and better load retention in the joint, loose washers are generally a no-no in volume production. Fasteners are a whole discipline in themselves. 2 Link to post
Tex 36,817 Posted October 14, 2017 Share Posted October 14, 2017 There we are, now we all know. Thanks Murray. Link to post
pointer2null 106 Posted October 15, 2017 Author Share Posted October 15, 2017 All done. Getting the back wheel back on was a pain, but otherwise straight forward. Think I'll invest in a better chain riveter for next time though... Link to post
gonzo 2,214 Posted October 15, 2017 Share Posted October 15, 2017 Gary, how many miles did you get out of the original chain/sprox and have you an auto chain oiler fitted, just asking,.!!! Link to post
pointer2null 106 Posted October 15, 2017 Author Share Posted October 15, 2017 Around 12,000. After I remove the old chain I checked it over, there were a few tight links but nothing I'd say was seized. I could probably got more out of it - maybe a fair bit, but the time between adjustments was starting to decrease rapidly and I could hear clunks and other odd noises. So for the sake of £80 I know it's all fixed now. 1 Link to post
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