Jump to content

Chain Lube - Recommendations?


Guest Southerner

Recommended Posts

Andy m
2 hours ago, wingrider.steve said:

I don't think virgins were ever that common in Barnsley :dielaugh:

Not common as in frequently found, but in other ways.....

 

I'd reccomend Barnsley for a night out. For those of you of a more delicate nature though, start a bit easier, try Hamburg or Bangkok first.

 

Andy

  • Haha 3
Link to post
  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Tex

    7

  • Andy m

    6

  • Spindizzy

    4

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

I think we've all decided to save our breath/fingers. The workable enclosed chain died with the fall of the Berlin Wall, the German idiots still can't design a shaft using a universal joint with a gre

Try a Tiger Cub. You have to completely dismantle the engine to get to the gearbox sprocket, literally. That's head and barrel off, split the crankcase halves and voila, there it is, simple! Enthusias

Hi I use cheap engine oil with a loobman oiler, it seems to clean the chain while lubricanting it and no big gungy build up around the front sprocket and it doesn't seem to fling that much.

Mr Toad

The NC came with a Tutoro oiler, I fill it with engine oil.

 

The Bonneville doesn't have an oiler, I brush it engine oil.

Link to post
2 hours ago, Spindizzy said:

+1 for Loobman. Use any engine oil.

 

Flings a bit but great for the chain

 

If you don't want a chain oiler I would say Wurth. Used it in the past before I embraced the Loobman.

 

That’s all in the past now, boy. You’ve moved up in the world. Well done! :) 

Link to post
Exceledsteve

I brush my chain lightly with an old tooth brush covered in 10w 40 engine oil. Cleans it, lubricates it, satisfies my ocd.

Link to post
Spindizzy
25 minutes ago, Tex said:

 

That’s all in the past now, boy. You’ve moved up in the world. Well done! :) 

If I said use a CVT it might encourage ridicule.....

  • Haha 1
Link to post
Wedgepilot

WD40 chain wax applied with one of those grease ninja things. Takes 5 mins to do once a week. 

 

The original chain is still going strong after 17k.

Link to post
Guest Southerner
10 hours ago, suffolk58 said:

It's no better than any other lube but the cans fit in the frunk, as well as the puncture repair kit, side stand puck, mini road map, ear plugs, luggage spider, assorted pens, note pad, various rags, bottle of water, sandwiches, etc. etc........

I do miss the frunk! :console:

Link to post
Guest Southerner
8 hours ago, Exceledsteve said:

I brush my chain lightly with an old tooth brush covered in 10w 40 engine oil. Cleans it, lubricates it, satisfies my ocd.

I like that idea with application via toothbrush!

7 hours ago, Wedgepilot said:

WD40 chain wax applied with one of those grease ninja things.

What's the Ninja thing?

Edited by Southerner
Link to post
Guest Southerner

Thanks for all your replies.

 

In 30+ years of riding it never occurred to me that engine oil was an option - always used sprays. Maybe I read somewhere that it wasn't good for the o rings or seals - no idea.

 

But then again, that's what these auto oilers use i suppose. :ermm:

Edited by Southerner
Link to post
Andy m

The O-rings live in a greasy environment regardless of the lube used, if they weren't nitrile they'd last days. NR, EPDM etc. that don't like oil are rare in automotive use.

 

The only issue with engine oil is that it is designed to fling round inside an engine, so can fling off a chain. Replace what is lost and you get over that one.

 

Andy

  • Like 2
Link to post
7 hours ago, Andy m said:

..., EPDM etc. that don't like oil are rare in automotive use.

 

Jut for info .....................rubber used with regular ethylene glycol coolant and normal brake fluid is often EPDM (or alternatives resistant to these liquids), which is why you should never use mineral oil based greases etc on brake parts. Don't use hose for coolant (heater hose etc) for applications using engine oil etc., the outside might be oil resistant but the liner won't be.

 

O-rings used on chains are almost certainly nitrile NBR as Andy says, which is fine with most mineral oil based products, white spirit/naptha type solvents (e.g. WD40), paraffin etc. Don't get acetone or similar aromatic solvents anywhere near it though. Plenty of compatibility charts available with a search.

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
alhendo1
17 hours ago, Exceledsteve said:

I brush my chain lightly with an old tooth brush covered in 10w 40 engine oil. Cleans it, lubricates it, satisfies my ocd.

+1....toothbrush with diff oil to the inside run of the chain. 

Link to post

If no oiler then another vote for Wurth High Performance Dry Chain Lube

If oiler fitted then 80W90 gearbox oil except winter when standard 15w30 engine oil.

Link to post
12 hours ago, Andy m said:

The only issue with engine oil is that it is designed to fling round inside an engine, so can fling off a chain. Replace what is lost and you get over that one.

 

 

Can someone explain something about this ... I can see how regular oil (much thinner than the waxy spray) gets flung off.  I mean, at the rate the chain moves, surely, it will be a continual PITA to clean off *everything* - wheels included, frequently.  If you are dripping oil from one of these "oilers", I'm puzzled why the whole back end of the bike doesn't just rapidly become a grim(ier) mess.  And don't you get splattered underneath and on your legs as its whipped around at 70mph?

Link to post
Spindizzy
Just now, Morph said:

 

Can someone explain something about this ... I can see how regular oil (much thinner than the waxy spray) gets flung off.  I mean, at the rate the chain moves, surely, it will be a continual PITA to clean off *everything* - wheels included, frequently.  If you are dripping oil from one of these "oilers", I'm puzzled why the whole back end of the bike doesn't just rapidly become a grim(ier) mess.  And don't you get splattered underneath and on your legs as its whipped around at 70mph?

Its the application of a few drops every 50 miles or so. No puddles on the floor. Also as its not gummy oil it wipes off easy and doesn't really go near the wheel.

 

It mainly goes over the chain guard and back of the number plate

 

When it flings it takes the muck with it, so sort of self cleaning. 8000 miles and never really cleaned or adjusted my chain at all. Didn't need to.

  • Thanks 2
Link to post
Andy m

If the oiler is putting too much on it does indeed go everywhere. 

 

The old vacuum driven scotoiler for example usually had two settings: off and Exxon Valdez.

 

Andy

  • Haha 3
Link to post
Wedgepilot
15 hours ago, Southerner said:

I like that idea with application via toothbrush!

What's the Ninja thing?

One of these:

Grease ninja

 

It directs the lubricant of your choice onto the o-rings, rather than all over the floor/tyre/swingarm.

 

Edited by Wedgepilot
Link to post

Wurth, WD40 and Muc Off are all good for me and paraffin for cleaning.

Link to post
On 12/12/2017 at 19:04, Radarman said:

If no oiler then another vote for Wurth High Performance Dry Chain Lube

If oiler fitted then 80W90 gearbox oil except winter when standard 15w30 engine oil.

+1 on wurth 

Link to post
Iron horse

Wurth dry lube for me too. Best thing is the dirt doesn't stick too easily either. I use a can every 3 months or so

Link to post
Slowboy
On 12/12/2017 at 20:00, Andy m said:

If the oiler is putting too much on it does indeed go everywhere. 

 

The old vacuum driven scotoiler for example usually had two settings: off and Exxon Valdez.

 

Andy

I guess you'd need one with a laptop to drive it then.....😁

Link to post
electric_monk

Gearoil applied with an old toothbrush along the inside of the chain. Cleaned with a dry cloth before application. 12k km on a new chain that has only been adjusted once.

Link to post
Iron horse

Paraffin for cleaning works a treat too. Gives the chain a proper wash and cleans off the grinding paste that forms on a grubby chain

Link to post

Tutoro on the NC, keeps chain lubed, clean and vastly improves chain life.

 

On my other bike I have just got some Motul C5 chain paste. It has an integral brush to apply the lube.

Not tried it yet but have heard excellent reports.

 

Also I regularly clean my chain using paraffin, applied with a small paint brush, then scrubbed with a 3 sided chain scrubbing brush thingy.


Bit of a faff, but get good chain life and I hate the job of replacing chain & sprockets..

 

 

Edited by DelBoy
Link to post

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...