Mike5100 2,061 Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 On all my bikes I have never cleaned the brakes in between services. And I ride right through winter. But I read on the afric twin forum that a guy just sprays his callipers with cleaner (without disassembly) to cure a brake sticking problem. My symptom is that after the bike has been parked overnight it’s difficult to push as the front wheel is stiff. After a ride it’s fine and I have checked that neither the rotor nor the bearings are too warm. So firstly I don’t understand how the calliper can apply the brake overnight and secondly I’m nervous about removing all the copper grease that the dealer has put on any thoughts? mike Link to post
rjp996 1,091 Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 (edited) Sounds just Iike a damp pad on the disc and sticking- like when the car has been standing. May any be worth just taking the pads out and cleaning up all the sliding areas. I put some brake silicon loob on all the sliding surfaces esp over winter. ive sprayed brake cleaner onto the calliper without taking apart a good few times to flush out grime, no harm, but may not cure your prob Edited February 17, 2018 by rjp996 1 Link to post
Andy m 23,546 Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 I hope there is no copper slip on the pins? First it'll go green and do nothing. Then it'll join with road crud to make a salt based grinding paste. Copper slip or HT grease on the back of the pad to let it slide on the piston is another matter. Old school, but either positive or at least doing no harm. Brake cleaner will degunk it but has no preservative qualities at all. If you take the pads out use silicone. If not, just the brake cleaner, copper slip on the back of the pad will be shielded by the piston. If it sticks, IMHO it needs a proped clean out. Andy 2 Link to post
arengle 449 Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 yes you should, I had a similar situation last month, when moving the bike the front brake was stuck. Just get a can, spray on both sides of the disk, try to spray inside the caliper, and rotate a few time the wheel so more cleaner reach the pad, let dry for a minute and then wipe. (try to protect the tire, the cleaner do change a little bit the tire color). And clean regularly your brakes. Link to post
Trev 18,693 Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 I've found the AT quite poor for this, worse than the NC which was also ridden in all weathers but then perhaps the twin discs just have that bit more grab than a single when gunked up? So far a good dose of brake cleaner has been enough to get them nice and free but I'm thinking it will be a caliper strip and clean before long. The brakes on my Enfield also have the same problem however a blast of brake cleaner doesn't seem to work so well so I end up dismantling front & back brakes (the rear is s drum) two or three over the Winter, pretty easy to do but still a couple of hours I could do without Link to post
outrunner 4,457 Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 If I put my NC away wet/covered in crud from a messy day I give the calipers a push with my foot or a bit of wood to make sure the pads do not bind to the disc. Andy. 2 Link to post
stephenmcg 869 Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 My theory is that you stop the bike with front brake and then put bike on side stand or main stand. I always stop bike and then roll it forward and back a little to free wheel and then put stand on. Especially if overnight parking. Smcg in wet Glasgow 3 Link to post
Mark8arker 527 Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 Stripped and cleaned front and back brakes this weekend. The hand brake caliper was sized ( DCT MODEL). My own fault. Not ridden since late December. Dident rinse of the bike after last ride. Had couple hair moments, decided to wait for the weather to clear up. Back commuting this week! Normally pull the pads out every couple months and give the caliper quick clean. Depending on millage and weather! Yes i still use Copper slick lol Link to post
Steve Blackdog 687 Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 (edited) I think this crap weather has a lot to answer for. I wheeled the bike out of the garage yesterday only to find the brakes seized up. Nasty grinding noise so I wheeled it back and shut the garage door. I think i will will get some brake cleaner. By the way, I have a litre of acetone in the garage. Anyone ever used acetone as a substitute for brake cleaner? Edited February 19, 2018 by Steve Blackdog 1 Link to post
embee 7,288 Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 (edited) On 19/02/2018 at 23:00, Steve Blackdog said: ................. acetone as a substitute for brake cleaner? Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Acetone is pretty unpleasant stuff where most types of rubber components are concerned. Don't take the risk. The only slightly saving grace is that EPDM is OK with it, which is possibly what the brake seals themselves are made of, but the dust seals and hose outer coverings are unlikely to get on well with it. Brake cleaner is cheap enough. https://www.coleparmer.com/Chemical-Resistance If you do use brake cleaner it really needs subsequent protection with something like ACF50 or red rubber grease, the cleaner is a great de-greaser and it will leave the surfaces vulnerable to corrosion without some sort of protection. I use a small paint brush with red rubber grease to go round the ends of the pistons and the dust seals after cleaning, it seems to protect from water reasonably effectively. Brake cleaner is primarily aimed at cleaning oil/grease off the friction surfaces. A small dab of silicone grease on the sliding pins while you're in there. Edited February 21, 2018 by embee Link to post
Mike5100 2,061 Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 2 hours ago, embee said: Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Acetone is pretty unpleasant stuff where most types of rubber components are concerned. Don't take the risk. The only slightly saving grace is that EPDM is OK with it, which is possibly what the brake seals themselves are made of, but the dust seals and hose outer coverings are unlikely to get on well with it. Brake cleaner is cheap enough. https://www.coleparmer.com/Chemical-Resistance If you do use brake cleaner it really needs subsequent protection with something like ACF50 or red rubber grease, the cleaner is a great de-greaser and it will leave the surfaces vulnerable to corrosion without some sort of protection. I use a small paint brush with red rubber grease to go round the ends of the pistons and the dust seals after cleaning, it seems to protect from water reasonably effectively. Brake cleaner is primarily aimed at cleaning oil/grease off the friction surfaces. A small dab of silicone grease on the sliding pins while you're in there. Is this what people do? I never touch my brakes between services, but now I'm worried that I should be doing something. Murray - do you have to take the wheel out to do what you are advising, or is there a quick way. Mike Link to post
Slowboy 20,506 Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 (edited) 30 minutes ago, Mike5100 said: Is this what people do? I never touch my brakes between services, but now I'm worried that I should be doing something. Murray - do you have to take the wheel out to do what you are advising, or is there a quick way. Mike Yes it is what I do Mike, especially in the winter, it keeps them (nearly) corrosion free and functioning at their best through the year. I don't take the wheels off, just the calipers. Edited February 21, 2018 by slowboy Link to post
embee 7,288 Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 As Brian says, just take the calipers off, pads out, then you have plenty of access. Link to post
Steve Blackdog 687 Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 Thanks Murray. I like advice that doesn’t beat around the bush! Link to post
Trumpet 216 Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 (edited) I used brake cleaner for the first time this weekend on a caliper strip and rebuild, actually I'm impressed ! I usually spend ages pumping out the indiividual pistons, rubbing gently to remove all the old hardened grease and brake dust, (Mr sheen is good) but the stuff actually helped a lot. You do need to regrease once cleaned up though, a little of the right grease in the right places, as covered elsewhere. Edited February 25, 2018 by Trumpet Link to post
TheEnglishman 401 Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 The NC is quite nice as it has stainless pistons so they tend not to rust up (they will rust/pit but they're resistant) However, crud does stick to them, preventing them from returning. Basic cleaning is easy. Take the calliper out, remove the pads and get to work with some brake cleaner and an old toothbrush. I use a strip of foam to do the bits of the pistons that the toothbrush can't get to. Once one piston is clean I push it right in, jam it with a bit of wood and pump the other one out to check/deep clean it. Then reverse and repeat. As Murray says, red rubber grease the pistons and I'm good for the winter. I've always coppaslipped the pin(s) and the back of the pad. I've not remembered any rotten/mis-shapen pins or squeaky pads. YMMV... ALWAYS remember to pump the brake handle and statically check the brakes work BEFORE you ride off!!! DAMHIK 1 1 Link to post
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