Tight Spot on Chain

[Spike 171]

Evenin' All

 

After successfully giving the chain a good clean and wax, whilst adjusting the slack I found that there is on spot on the chain where it goes tight!

So a couple of questions:

1. Should I change the chain?

2. If I change the chain should I get new front and rear sprockets as well?

3. Is this a job I can tackle at home and do I need any special tools?

4. If the chain is considered ok for the time being do I adjust the slack at the tightest spot?

 

Sorry... actually four questions but I never have been that god at counting!   

[Tonyj 6,907]

Hi spike how's the new job in government going. ( treasury )

[Trumpet 216]

As chains age, they develop tight spots, actually links that start to tighten up because the O ring seals start to fail and let water in. You should adjust the chain at the tightest point to get the correct free play. If the chain is then massively slack elsewhere its knackered. You can work oil into a link thats failing and stave off the replacement, sometimes for quite a while. Ultimately you will have to replace it. Depends how hard up you are.  You should replace both sprockets with the chain. Some people might argue this point, but you are asking for opinions and I strongly believe you should.  You would need a chain riveter to replace the chain. Most chains are supplied with a soft link that you can easily rivet with the right tool. Continuous run chains would need you to remove the swinging arm to fit. Much easier with a soft link and riveter. As to whether you can change it yourself, sorry, I don't know your abilites. I've done several now across many Bikes, but I do all my own servicing as well and have all the correct tools and DID chain riveter.

 

Short term, have a look for the seized up links and work oil into them ..

Edited February 25, 2018 by Trumpet

[Tex 36,817]

Dave, I agree with Alan (Trumpet). Don’t forget there are a few of us on here who are happy to help out the less experienced among us. A centre stand is going to make the job much easier (does your bike have one?).

[rjp996 1,091]

If you have the tools and a dry place to change the chain, its not a difficult job for an amature.

I always put on a endless chain that has no link to join - they cost the same, but does require you to unbolt the bottom of the shock and take the swing arm out - but its one of those jobs that sounds way harder then it really is as its only a few bolts....

Chain alignment tool is a must - I use one of those small laser ones that you place on the sprocket as I find them quick and asy and can align the chain all the way up to the front sprocket.

 

If you were closer to me I would offer to show you / help you change it.

 

[TheEnglishman 401]

 

If it were me I'd change the chain.  Personally (i flog my chains possibly beyond what I should) I get a new front sprocket with every chain (~20k) and a new rear sprocket every other.  But it depends - How many miles do you do a year?  How many miles is on the current chain?  How well do you look after the chain/sprockets? (you don't have to answer that)

 

*Some* people swap their chain early, so put a new set of sprockets on every other chain.  I swap chain and front sprocket when it runs out of adjustment. YMMV.

 

It's not a big/difficult job but you will need a specialist tool (chain riveter) and know how to use it - properly!  Mess up and you'll need an angle grinder, more chain links and £20 in the swear box.  And if you're inexperienced, a breaker bar and a torque wrench to undo/tighten the sprocket nut.  It's adding up, isn't it?  

 

I use a straight edge(24") to align the chain - I just place it against the rear sprocket.  Maybe there's reasons to not do it this way?  I get ~20k from a chain and ride all year so think that's acceptable?  Ted?  Murray?  Anyone got a 'best way'?

 

For years I just got a local garage to do the dirty work - they should charge between £20 and £40 labour.  A decent chain tool is twice that and you still get your hands dirty.  And lose an hour or more of your weekend.  

[Spindizzy 7,109]

Back when I had old fashioned transport that used chains  I would replace a chain if it had a significant tight spot. Personally I would buy endless and take off the suspension to fit it, that way you lube the linkages at the same time.

 

If the chains failed early and the sprockets look ok I would run them on for longer. Like others said maybe just the front sprocket as it works a lot harder.

Edited February 26, 2018 by Spindizzy

[Tony 127]

Hmmm. When I read discussions like this I always worry that I don't do things properly.  I change the chain when normal lubrication doesn't remove the tight spots. so after roughly 45K miles I am on my third chain.  At the same time I check the sprockets and only change if they look worn. So in that time I have had to replace the original rear sprocket when I first changed the chain but I put a good quality one on. The front sprocket is the original and looks fine and the chain isn't riding up on it when the wheel is spun.

 

Now the bit that may make people cringe. I don't have any specialist tools and when I put the new chain on I simply use an angle grinder to remove the old one and then two hammers to close the rivets on the new chain. I have never had  problem.  As for alignment then I use my eyes on the basis that if it looks right then it probably is.

 

Can't say I have any had any problems or suffered any excessive wear anywhere.  I will hang my head in shame if people tell me my attitude is wrong - but probably carry on the same . 

[commuter 262]

With chains and sprockets, one occasionally finds tight spots. Experience has taught me that it isn't always the chain which is the culprit. I once had a sprocket which had worn in an un-even manner. Since then, I always replace the whole set as a matter of routine. I always check the fit of the new chain to the new sprockets before fitting by simply wrapping the sprocket with the new chain and trying to lift sections around the sprocket. Dirt and sprockets wear out chains, chains and dirt wears out sprockets and I also found to my cost that worn wheel bearings, output shaft bearings, suspension geometry and swinging arm bushes contribute too. So consequently, when I change chain and sprockets, I check everything else in the drive train too.