Brake pad hone replacement?

[JamesS 71]

Hi, I'm sure this has been covered before, but would the knowledgeable people on here comment on how easy it is to replace the pads myself? YouTube video made it look easy. Is that the case, or can it be tricky in the real world? I've put 20k on the bike and the warranty long since passed. Keen to learn how to maintain her myself from this point on, as long as it's safe to do so. Feedback welcome guys.

[JamesS 71]

Typo - home replacement, not hone. Sorry - increasingly chubby fingers!!

[neil700 72]

Hi James, yes it is that easy ... just go for it

[Brigante7 438]

I just did the rear brake pads, it only took me 2 hours. The only hard part is once the pads are in the caliper and you start to lower the caliper back down over the disc, the pads keep falling out, other than that it's easy.

 

 

 

Brigante7.

[Rogue 831]

It's definitely well within the capabilities of almost anyone who is prepared to pick up a spanner I would suggest. I certainly don't rate my own skills very highly and I have changed both front and rear pads a couple of times now without any great difficulty, other than as Carlo mentioned the fun of trying to locate and keep pads in place whilst putting everything back together.

[JamesS 71]

Thanks for the replies guys - very encouraging. Just one more question - how can you be certain the pads need replacing (is there a level mark?). Thanks

[Brigante7 438]

Using a torch, you should be ble to see how much is left on the pads. 

 

 

 

Brigante7.

[Andy m 23,546]

There is a notch in the pad dividing it in two . When it is flat, having worn down to bottom of the notch you've had your chips. If wear is uneven and any part is lower than the bottom of the notch its also time. 

 

Once you can do this, get it open once or twice a year and clean it with the pads out. A toothbrush and brake cleaner is perfect. A clean, free running brake will wear noticeably less.

 

Don't forget to have a good pump before the first ride, getting pads back in contact with the disc is best not done at the first junction!

 

These however passed four MOT's despite the material been held to the backing by wishful thinking. The ******* who sold me the bike was probably in the same Banjo playing in the woods and taxidermy club as the MOT tester given the location. 

 

https://sites.google.com/site/yorkshireoutbacksidecar/maintenance-rogues-gallery

 

You can see the groove and would say they had a few miles wear on that score.

 

Andy

Edited April 30, 2018 by Andy m

[Guest bornagain]

This video covers the basics. However it's well worth following @Andy m 's advice and give the caliper a clean.

Also I wouldn't shove a screwdriver in there - use something like a strong wooden wedge and a torque wrench for the bolts.

 

 

Regards,

Neil

 

[TheEnglishman 401]

If you're changing the pads (easy job once you've done it once) you really should pump the piston out and clean it and the slide pin as well. Get a can of brake cleaner and an old (or new) toothbrush.   If you've a DCT take the handbrake brake assembly off and clean that while you're at it.  And take out the speed sensor too and clean it up - I find that galls as it's stainless against alloy.  

 

Brake bolts and slide pins are something I always use a torque wrench on when putting them back.  Your life's worth the £50 odd quid a decent one will cost you.  And you get a cool tool to play with!

 

Maybe check your chain tension and tyre pressures as well....  And all your lights work, including the brake switches and indicators.  And check your oil level.

 

So a 10 minute job became a couple of hours - but you've done a quality job and you know your bike's in tip top condition!

 

 

[JamesS 71]

Thanks guys. Really useful feedback, as always on this forum.

[Guest StevenH]

best tip I can give is when replacing pads.  make sure u clean caliper properly.  some piston grease onto piston and surface which will contact pad.  Use elastic band to stop pads falling out.  Replace with new slider pin and coat in grease(thin film)  bobs ur uncle.

[makman 975]

Pads are straight forward. As with any job on critical systems on the bike, take your time, check and check again.  Replacing pads takes me all of 15 minutes for front as I strip and clean the caliper at least twice a year.  Makes a big difference on the longevity of pads and braking performance.  If caliper pistons are kept clean, pads wear more evenly and you have less hassles stopping.  Do be careful what pads you buy as replacements, some EBC Road pads are very soft and only last 2400 miles or so with city riding.  I've gone for HH Pads as they are harder and last longer.  Brake feel is still good in all weathers.