Guest Paget76 Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 Hi, Apologies if this has been covered elsewhere, but can anyone tell me if there is a specific sequence for bleeding the rear brake lines? Obviously on the '700 there are two lines, one going to the rear brake and a secondary to the middle piston of the front... Also, I've been struggling to compress the pistons sufficiently in the front brake to get new pads over the disc - any suggestions? Cheers! Link to post
embee 7,288 Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 (edited) Bleeding. I think it depends a bit. The Integra has the rear master cyl on the handlebars so the brake line layout is completely different to the S/X. As a principle I usually do the short run first, so on my Integra I do the front first then the rear. On my Deauville I do the rear first then the front, but that isn't ABS so another variable anyway. To be perfectly honest I doubt it makes a huge difference either way, as long as you bleed them effectively. I always recommend a vacuum type bleeder because you can get a steady flow of fluid which will be much more effective at purging any air than trying to pump it intermittently using the master cylinder. If in doubt I will go back and repeat the process, with a vac bleeder it is so quick and easy you can justify repeating. There are various vac bleeders on the market. Personally I have a Mityvac because I also use it for other vac/pressure testing purposes, but there are other dedicated vac brake bleeders around at modest cost, well worth the investment IMO. Edited January 18, 2019 by embee 1 Link to post
trisaki 2,029 Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 If pistons won't go in easily I would pump em right out and fit new seals (once the groves have been cleaned out ) and probably stainless pistons -you are bleeding the system anyway ! 1 Link to post
embee 7,288 Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 I seem to remember some folk have found certain manufacturer's pads have been thicker than others. Can't remember the details, maybe someone else can give more info. What make of pads are you fitting? Link to post
Guest Paget76 Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 Thanks for the answers folks. Should have mentioned it's an NC700X (so rear brake reservoir is at the back). Pads are EBC - have always used them once I wore through the OEM cheese pads... I have a sneaking suspicion that both calipers could do with being taken apart and thoroughly cleaned, but not sure I can face that just yet! Link to post
steelhorseuk 1,690 Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 (edited) I just replaced my rear set (NC700SA) from OEM (Nissin) pads to EBC. As per Murrays (embee) comment above, EBC pads are slightly thicker than the OEM (Nissin?) pads. Also, the EBC pads I ordered from SBS did not come with the anti-squeal and heat shield. So, I had to clean the existing ones up, not a problem. They come very clean with brake cleaner. After cleaning your calliper just ensure you get the piston pushed all the way back and your nice new EBC pads go in nicely! OEM rear set of pads from Honda dealer at a staggering £44.00! Ouch... EBC HH rear set from SBS at £15 + £1.50 delivery. Lots better. Edited January 18, 2019 by Steel Horse UK Link to post
trisaki 2,029 Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 (edited) 24 minutes ago, Paget76 said: Thanks for the answers folks. Should have mentioned it's an NC700X (so rear brake reservoir is at the back). Pads are EBC - have always used them once I wore through the OEM cheese pads... I have a sneaking suspicion that both calipers could do with being taken apart and thoroughly cleaned, but not sure I can face that just yet! Where in the country are you , , I run my own independent wshop in west Sussex if that helps at all Edited January 18, 2019 by trisaki Link to post
Guest Paget76 Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 I'm in SE London - whereabouts are you in W Sussex, trisaki? And yes, I got the EBS from SBS (always my goto online shop) - no anti-squeal/heat, as you say, but never been a problem reusing them. Interesting that they are slightly thicker - combined with the fact I can't quite get the pistons all the way in, that's probably my problem! Link to post
trisaki 2,029 Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 My wshop is arundel/littlehampton bn180as Link to post
Guest Paget76 Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 18 minutes ago, trisaki said: My wshop is arundel/littlehampton bn180as Bit too much of a hike, but thanks! Link to post
trisaki 2,029 Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 If ever this way give me a call , have a brew up and a natter Link to post
Guest Paget76 Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 26 minutes ago, trisaki said: If ever this way give me a call , have a brew up and a natter Done! Link to post
outrunner 4,457 Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 Has the brake fluid been topped up anytime before changing the pads? Perhaps there is too much fluid in the master cylinder preventing the pistons from going right back. Andy. 3 Link to post
DaveM59 1,605 Posted January 19, 2019 Share Posted January 19, 2019 Loosen the bleed screw and see if they push in any further, any dirt behind the pistons will be pushed out rather than back up the brake pipe. 2 Link to post
coopers12345 99 Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 What method are you using to push them back in? I normally find that a sturdy knife provides a large enough flat surface and sufficient pivot to push the pistons back flush. 1 Link to post
DaveM59 1,605 Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 Small g-clamp works for me with a rag or piece of cardboard so as not to mark the calliper body. Put the clamp screwed part right down inside the piston if you can then you can't force it cock-eyed. 1 1 Link to post
rjp996 1,091 Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 I've had it where the calliper would not go back over the disc with new pads, as though the pads were much thicker. Turned out it was an issue with the calliper slide pins not sliding well. Pulled the two halfs of the calliper apart and greased / cleaned up the slide pins and went on easily after - maybe worth a look. 2 Link to post
Iron horse 121 Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 Agree on the slide pins. My front brake was binding slightly and cleaning/lubing the pins did the job nicely. 2 Link to post
Guest Paget76 Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 Cheers all. Managed to get the pistons in after a good clean , so that was fine, and bled the brakes through. All hunky-dory, or so I thought. However. I now have the problem that for some reason I have almost no braking action from the pedal... I assumed I had been a wombat and got some air in the lines, so I've bled them right through again (front and back), but still I have to stamp on the pedal to get any resonse. Bearing in mind the pedal drives both front and back brakes, I can't see it being the calipers or pistons, as that wouldn't affect both. And also the 'main' front brake is as sharp as you like. Have my MOT tomorrow, and rather worried it won't be passing - and even if it does, I still need to get this sorted! Any ideas, folks? Thanks, Richard Link to post
Bigglesaircraft 293 Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 What bike do you have as my X foot peddle only operates the back brake. Link to post
MikeBike 5,005 Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 11 minutes ago, Bigglesaircraft said: What bike do you have as my X foot peddle only operates the back brake. On 18/01/2019 at 09:15, Paget76 said: Obviously on the '700 there are two lines, one going to the rear brake and a secondary to the middle piston of the front... Link to post
Bigglesaircraft 293 Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 20 minutes ago, MikeBike said: Yes sorry, forgot the ABS network, too early in the morning for me today, blame the flu. Link to post
trisaki 2,029 Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 36 minutes ago, Bigglesaircraft said: What bike do you have as my X foot peddle only operates the back brake. He has a nc700 which has combined brakes Link to post
trisaki 2,029 Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 1 hour ago, Paget76 said: Cheers all. Managed to get the pistons in after a good clean , so that was fine, and bled the brakes through. All hunky-dory, or so I thought. However. I now have the problem that for some reason I have almost no braking action from the pedal... I assumed I had been a wombat and got some air in the lines, so I've bled them right through again (front and back), but still I have to stamp on the pedal to get any resonse. Bearing in mind the pedal drives both front and back brakes, I can't see it being the calipers or pistons, as that wouldn't affect both. And also the 'main' front brake is as sharp as you like. Have my MOT tomorrow, and rather worried it won't be passing - and even if it does, I still need to get this sorted! Any ideas, folks? Thanks, Richard Hi did you bleed the rear using the bleed nipple on the centre piston in the front caliper , try bleeding the rear brake again , I normally bleed the centre bleed nipple in the front caliper then the rear but dont it is that important which sequence Link to post
Guest Paget76 Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 56 minutes ago, trisaki said: Hi did you bleed the rear using the bleed nipple on the centre piston in the front caliper , try bleeding the rear brake again , I normally bleed the centre bleed nipple in the front caliper then the rear but dont it is that important which sequence I did the rear and then the front-centre, but as you say I don't think it should make a difference... Is there anywhere else that air can sit that bleeding might not reach? Not quite sure how the actuator works to drive both lines? Link to post
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