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No Instrument panel, won't start but a ticking sound


Aussie

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I've got a real puzzler, I had to break suddenly and gave a driver a blast of my horn just pulling into my work places carpark..

Thats when it all happened, I noticed that my instrument panel had gone dead the HISS security system came on but the engine kept running up until I parked it. I tried to start the bike up again.

All I'm getting is a strange ticking sound from the engine for about 20secs. The lights come on but nothing else works the horn, indicators, the starter button all dead. I'm thinking a fuse or relay switch πŸ€”

Any ideas on my personal nightmare?

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Reckon it's the 30-amp fuse in the starter solenoid. Perhaps when you used the horn it caused too much amperage draw and blew the fuse. The fusesΒ cost pennies (or cents). The clicking noise you hear is the relay in the solenoid activating, but if the fuse is gone then the electrons won't flow any further. Hopefully that's it ...

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Defender

Kill switch or side stand switch might to blame?

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Replace the 30 amp fuse. It is beside the battery on the right side, attached to the starter relay from recent memory. I hope nothing has melted so check it. Good luck.Β 

Edited by Graham
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Solved..

The Horn/Instrument fuse.. but now its stuck in 2nd gear and still making a clunking sound and of course won't start.

I tried the clutch reset code, nope πŸ˜–..

Solved..

In frustration I called my local Honda dealership had a chat to one of their mechanics.

He went on about well have to see it to figure out what was wrong with it because of the computer hadn't engaged the clutch πŸ’°πŸ’Έ..

In other words the clutch was stuck.. πŸ€¨πŸ€”

While still on the phone I moved the back wheel back & forth..

There was a CLICK sound..

The clutch had engaged..

The engine started πŸ‘πŸ»

The question is now is why did this happen?

Frayed wiring?

Faulty horn switch?

πŸ€”

  • Like 2
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Did you hold the horn down for a long time? What Amp rating is the fuse? You could fit a higher rated fuse but caution is that the wiring and components areΒ designed for a certain amperage ... albeit with a healthy margin.

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4 hours ago, Aussie said:

Solved..

The Horn/Instrument fuse.. but now its stuck in 2nd gear and still making a clunking sound and of course won't start.

I tried the clutch reset code, nope πŸ˜–..

Solved..

In frustration I called my local Honda dealership had a chat to one of their mechanics.

He went on about well have to see it to figure out what was wrong with it because of the computer hadn't engaged the clutch πŸ’°πŸ’Έ..

In other words the clutch was stuck.. πŸ€¨πŸ€”

While still on the phone I moved the back wheel back & forth..

There was a CLICK sound..

The clutch had engaged..

The engine started πŸ‘πŸ»

The question is now is why did this happen?

Frayed wiring?

Faulty horn switch?

πŸ€”

I have a Honda civic CVT car, if I brake hard and come to a stop it seems as if the box/system needs a second or two to settle before I can drive off, I wonder if the bikes have a similar issue? Having said that I have done an emergency stop on the bike (dct) without any issues, maybe yours is a one off, but blowing a fuse sounds a bit odd, is it a standard hooter or after market one?

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Defender
1 hour ago, MatBin said:

I have a Honda civic CVT car, if I brake hard and come to a stop it seems as if the box/system needs a second or two to settle before I can drive off, I wonder if the bikes have a similar issue? Having said that I have done an emergency stop on the bike (dct) without any issues, maybe yours is a one off, but blowing a fuse sounds a bit odd, is it a standard hooter or after market one?

That's interesting, I too had a Honda car with CVT, but I never noticed the phenomenon you encountered.

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Edited by Defender
correction
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Defender
6 hours ago, Aussie said:

Solved..

The Horn/Instrument fuse.. but now its stuck in 2nd gear and still making a clunking sound and of course won't start.

I tried the clutch reset code, nope πŸ˜–..

Solved..

In frustration I called my local Honda dealership had a chat to one of their mechanics.

He went on about well have to see it to figure out what was wrong with it because of the computer hadn't engaged the clutch πŸ’°πŸ’Έ..

In other words the clutch was stuck.. πŸ€¨πŸ€”

While still on the phone I moved the back wheel back & forth..

There was a CLICK sound..

The clutch had engaged..

The engine started πŸ‘πŸ»

The question is now is why did this happen?

Frayed wiring?

Faulty horn switch?

I do have a non standard horn on my NC'X and it probably draws more current than the standard pathetic fitment, as it makes much more noise, but not had a problem with it blowing the fuse, I would suggest checking the connections for corrosion or a bad joint, also the earthing points starting at the battery, just to be sure.

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2 hours ago, Defender said:

That's interesting, I too had a Honda car with CVT, but I never noticed the phenomenon you encountered.

Β 

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Must admit it only happens when I really pile into the brakes to test what would happen in an emergency. Mrs wasn't impressed as her brains kept going forward too πŸ™‚

Brakes were impressive though.

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Solved..

The Horn/Instrument fuse.. but now its stuck in 2nd gear and still making a clunking sound and of course won't start.

I tried the clutch reset code, nope πŸ˜–..

Solved..

In frustration I called my local Honda dealership had a chat to one of their mechanics.

He went on about well have to see it to figure out what was wrong with it because of the computer hadn't engaged the clutch πŸ’°πŸ’Έ..

In other words the clutch was stuck.. πŸ€¨πŸ€”

While still on the phone I moved the back wheel back & forth..

There was a CLICK sound..

The clutch had engaged..

The engine started πŸ‘πŸ»

The question is now is why did this happen?

Frayed wiring?

Faulty horn switch?

πŸ€”

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A side note..

When the side stand was down the bike wouldn't start, a safety feature of course.

But now it does start with the side stand lowered 🀨, interesting πŸ€”

Β 

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3 minutes ago, Aussie said:

A side note..

When the side stand was down the bike wouldn't start, a safety feature of course.

But now it does start with the side stand lowered 🀨, interesting πŸ€”

Β 

I thought they started with side stand down so long as in neutral but cut out when you pull in the clutch lever or try to engage a gear on dct bikes?

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Ozzieflyer
7 hours ago, MatBin said:

I thought they started with side stand down so long as in neutral but cut out when you pull in the clutch lever or try to engage a gear on dct bikes?

You are right. Β I have an nc750sa and it starts with the side stand down as long as I am in neutral.Β 

  • Thanks 1
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