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bazza

battery drain warning beeper.

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bazza

having wired spots direct to my battery-through a fuse I hasten to say - the only problem is draining the battery if they are left on.so- guess what I did!

luckily at home so no big deal but I am wondering if a small "battery drain beeper" is available to wire in? So as you walk away -it tells you!

I know they are made -some cars beep when you leave lights on -but dont really know where to look-or what is is called.

anyone know?

 

baz

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bahnstormer

This kind of thing? 

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slowboy
23 hours ago, bazza said:

having wired spots direct to my battery-through a fuse I hasten to say - the only problem is draining the battery if they are left on.so- guess what I did!

luckily at home so no big deal but I am wondering if a small "battery drain beeper" is available to wire in? So as you walk away -it tells you!

I know they are made -some cars beep when you leave lights on -but dont really know where to look-or what is is called.

anyone know?

 

baz

There is a “wiring it up properly so I don’t have to worry about it sort of thing” solution as well.

😂😂😂

IMG-0795.png
Car ign (86) goes to any 12v feed switched on by the ignition key. (87) the switched positive which goes to your accessories, (30) to battery live and (85) to earth.

the blue box is a standard relay, they cost about a fiver.

Simples 😁

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Defender

The only comment addition I would make is to try and use something like the side stand switch to complete the supply so once it's in the up position everything is GO?

 

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bahnstormer
2 hours ago, slowboy said:

There is a “wiring it up properly so I don’t have to worry about it sort of thing” solution as well.

😂😂😂

IMG-0795.png
Car ign (86) goes to any 12v feed switched on by the ignition key. (87) the switched positive which goes to your accessories, (30) to battery live and (85) to earth.

the blue box is a standard relay, they cost about a fiver.

Simples 😁

 

That's exactly what I did with the USB sockets on the VFR :thumbsup:.  It worked perfectly for those, but I ended up replacing the whole lot with a Thunderbox when I decided to add a few other bits. 

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bazza
Posted (edited)

thanks guys - can you supply an electrical to english dictionary -or kit of parts ?

Edited by bazza
gobbledegook
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Defender

OK, unless I'm completely overboard, the only thing that needs changing is that the 12V 'switched feed to the '86' terminal would come from the 'side stand' unless the 'sidestand' is a 'switched earth/ground', in which case it'd be to the '85' contact on the relay.

TBH Barry/Bazza , it's much easier to do than explain in plain text:blink:, Brian/slowboy is better at that side of things than I am, BUT please come back if you need anything else, if I can help you I will do so. 

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slowboy
2 hours ago, bazza said:

thanks guys - can you supply an electrical to english dictionary -or kit of parts 

 

 

The wire connected to 86 is the feed wire from anything that is switched on by the ignition, I used the feed wire to the rear light on my NC and on my CRF250. If you’ve got bulbs rather than LEDs it’ll work fine.
Connect 30 to the battery positive terminal.

Connect 85 to any earth or the battery negative terminal.

connect 87 to your accessories.

 

The relay terminals are numbered.

 

If that’s too much, show the pretty picture to your local responsible adult (motorcycle mechanic). It takes about 2 hours.

 

 

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fred_jb
On 04/04/2021 at 18:15, bahnstormer said:

This kind of thing? 

 

I wasn't sure you can get such devices, but had said to Barry that if they exist they probably need an ignition feed to know when the bike is switched off.  However most of them seem to have a two wire connection so presumably just detect the lower voltage when the engine stops and the battery is no longer charging, like some heated grips do.  My other question would be how to they know you haven't switched off the lights, and presumably the answer to that is that you wire them to the same supply the lights are connected to.

 

Neat, but I still think wiring it up properly as Brian (slowboy) suggests is the best answer as then they just switch off automatically when you cut the ignition and you don't get an embarrassing bleeper going off as you walk away from your bike having left the lights on!

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bazza

thanks guys -old dog,new tricks .apparently more breakdowns are due to botched up wiring by idiots (like me) than anything else .It seems so simple but like "thowing a pot", skiing or a lot of other things -anyone who knows what they are doing thinks its easy . like riding off road - i did the BMW course in Brecon as was placed in the duffers group at the back - I am old enough not to be worried! just accept that others are better and pay -it "all makes work for the working man to do"

baz

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bahnstormer
2 hours ago, fred_jb said:

 

I wasn't sure you can get such devices, but had said to Barry that if they exist they probably need an ignition feed to know when the bike is switched off.  However most of them seem to have a two wire connection so presumably just detect the lower voltage when the engine stops and the battery is no longer charging, like some heated grips do.  My other question would be how to they know you haven't switched off the lights, and presumably the answer to that is that you wire them to the same supply the lights are connected to.

 

Neat, but I still think wiring it up properly as Brian (slowboy) suggests is the best answer as then they just switch off automatically when you cut the ignition and you don't get an embarrassing bleeper going off as you walk away from your bike having left the lights on!

 

Totally agree, I only posted the link as that's what Bazza asked for.  Brian's suggestion is one that I've used myself and would use again if I had to.  The only reason I changed was that I needed to wire up some more accessories ("need" seems like a strong word when it comes to accessories :lol:), so ended up using a Thunderbox.  Thinking about it now though, I guess it would be easy enough to run pin 87 to a bus bar type thing and you could power everything from that.  

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bahnstormer
3 minutes ago, bazza said:

thanks guys -old dog,new tricks .apparently more breakdowns are due to botched up wiring by idiots (like me) than anything else .It seems so simple but like "thowing a pot", skiing or a lot of other things -anyone who knows what they are doing thinks its easy . like riding off road - i did the BMW course in Brecon as was placed in the duffers group at the back - I am old enough not to be worried! just accept that others are better and pay -it "all makes work for the working man to do"

baz

 

That's the beauty of places like this though Baz, if you don't know the answer to something someone else probably will!  However, unlike most forums there's no piss taking when you ask a question!  I have a spare fused relay, if you want it drop me a PM with your address and I'll stick it in the post.  

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bazza
1 hour ago, bahnstormer said:

 

That's the beauty of places like this though Baz, if you don't know the answer to something someone else probably will!  However, unlike most forums there's no piss taking when you ask a question!  I have a spare fused relay, if you want it drop me a PM with your address and I'll stick it in the post.  

apreciate the offer but i will ask a sparky mate to show me a "live when ignition on " connectionn to join to i catch him on a good day. maybe i will learn something as well  - like DONT TOUCH THE WIRES!" a mechanic once took me aside as said -look you work on agas Ii work on bikes -if i promise not to touch your  aga will you leave your bike alone?

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slowboy
8 minutes ago, bazza said:

apreciate the offer but i will ask a sparky mate to show me a "live when ignition on " connectionn to join to i catch him on a good day. maybe i will learn something as well  - like DONT TOUCH THE WIRES!" a mechanic once took me aside as said -look you work on agas Ii work on bikes -if i promise not to touch your  aga will you leave your bike alone?


bazza, you can get one of these and just connect it to positive and negative on your battery then connect your lights up

No need for a switch wire👍

pop this into Amazon, £59.99, the price of ultimate convenience.😁


INNOVV NEW 2019 Power Hub2 Motorcycle 

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Rocker66
Posted (edited)
17 minutes ago, bazza said:

apreciate the offer but i will ask a sparky mate to show me a "live when ignition on " connectionn to join to i catch him on a good day. maybe i will learn something as well  - like DONT TOUCH THE WIRES!" a mechanic once took me aside as said -look you work on agas Ii work on bikes -if i promise not to touch your  aga will you leave your bike alone?

That reminds me of Tony the mechanic at Geoff Darren M/Cs that you used to say to me “ you fix trains I fix bikes which works well so  let’s keep it that way “

Edited by Rocker66
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sandalfarm

Don't use scotch locks or you will have  problems 

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listener
24 minutes ago, Rocker66 said:

That reminds me of Tony the mechanic at Geoff Darren M/Cs that you used to say to me “ you fix trains I fix bikes which works well so  let’s keep it that way “

 

Then again ... any gynaecologists out there?

Just in case I need to replace a headlight bulb! :devil: :lol:

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fred_jb
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, slowboy said:


bazza, you can get one of these and just connect it to positive and negative on your battery then connect your lights up

No need for a switch wire👍

pop this into Amazon, £59.99, the price of ultimate convenience.😁


INNOVV NEW 2019 Power Hub2 Motorcycle 

 

According to this write up (https://www.webbikeworld.com/innovv-power-hub-2-early-release-review/) it still needs an ignition feed to turn it on and off, but the main issue for me with this is that it does not provide an earth distribution bus connected directly to the battery, just one wire with no easy way to make multiple connections to it.  I would probably glue an earth busbar to the unit to provide this facility as I like to keep my wiring tidy and reliable by feeding each accessory with its own +12V and GND feed using a two core cable going back to the power distribution unit.  It is messier and less reliable to provide just a +12V feed and get the GND connection from a random location on the frame or wiring loom, or try to connect multiple wires to the single GND wire coming out of this unit.

 

 

Edited by fred_jb
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slowboy
Posted (edited)

Thanks @fred_jb. I was sure there is a device that senses voltage so switches off when the alternator stops charging and the battery voltage drops. Must have picked the wrong one.

Edited by slowboy

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fred_jb
3 minutes ago, slowboy said:

Thanks @fred_jb. I was sure there is a device that senses voltage so switches off when the alternator stops charging and the battery voltage drops. Must have picked the wrong one.

 

There probably is such a device, but I would rather not trust something automated like that! I'm old fashioned enough to want the ignition switch to control everything directly.  😁

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fred_jb

This is the one I have used in the past.  Pretty simple and basic with actual fuses rather than electronic switching but they do the job and have an earth connector for each circuit.

 

https://www.fuzeblocks.com/

 

 

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bahnstormer
35 minutes ago, slowboy said:

Thanks @fred_jb. I was sure there is a device that senses voltage so switches off when the alternator stops charging and the battery voltage drops. Must have picked the wrong one.

 

28 minutes ago, fred_jb said:

 

There probably is such a device, but I would rather not trust something automated like that! I'm old fashioned enough to want the ignition switch to control everything directly.  😁

 

Thunderbox is probably the one you're thinking of?

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davebike

Why on earth pay £60  for what the Honda loom and relay dose fro £30 !!

 

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MikeBike
40 minutes ago, davebike said:

Why on earth pay £60  for what the Honda loom and relay dose fro £30 !!

 

That's what I have and easy solution. Bought some matching plugs for connection. Could also use the switched supplies with further cheap relay if need more switched power. Am curious why a £60 solution is needed too which then also needs a swiched wire tapping somewhere.

 

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slowboy
10 minutes ago, MikeBike said:

That's what I have and easy solution. Bought some matching plugs for connection. Could also use the switched supplies with further cheap relay if need more switched power. Am curious why a £60 solution is needed too which then also needs a swiched wire tapping somewhere.

 

 

57 minutes ago, davebike said:

Why on earth pay £60  for what the Honda loom and relay dose fro £30 !!

 


I only suggested it because of the ease of installation. My little kit I make myself costs about a tenner and I link it to a four fuse marine fuse box so I can power all my accessories.

This is it in the CRF250. If it fits under the seat on there, it’ll fit anywhere. The relay is by the air intake, the fuse box by the data tag sticker.

IMG-3082.jpg

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