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Robinjr

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Robinjr

Today I went for a short ride to do a bit of shopping on my DCT model. When I was ready to return home I started the engine but could not engage drive. No action from the “flappy paddles” either. Has anyone experienced this problem and how did you resolve it? I had to get the RAC to take me and the bike home as no local dealers had any workshop space and wouldn’t have been able to make any diagnostic tests for 3 or 4 weeks

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Andy m

What's the battery voltage? 

 

Andy

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Robinjr

Battery is fine - always on an Oxford Optimiser when bike is not in use. Engine always starts instantly

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ChrisCB

Side stand switch?

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trisaki

Was the side stand down ?

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kayz1

We have had a good few bikes on chargers that still have duff batteries...Just sayin..

Well worth a test or two as most times it IS the voltage or lac of.. The other thing::

do you shut it down with the key or the kill switch?  It does matter: 700 or 750?

Edited by kayz1
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Robinjr

I tried it with the side stand up and down but still the same. With the ignition on the gear indicator box is completely blank.

I always stop the engine with the key, never used the kill switch. It’s the 750 model

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Defender

Need a bit more information for a diagnosis, i.e. age of bike and battery, make and model of the battery?

Have you checked/measured the battery voltage, off and on load and have you linked out/over ridden the side stand switch?  

Edited by Defender
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davebike

The relevent bit about switching off is do you put in netural first ?

The suspition is stoping the engine in gear means the box shifts without the imput shafts turning and that may only may be the cause of shifter pins snapping

I guess no fault light or hozazental bit in gear posision ( indicate a fault in gear box)  

My suspisions would be shift motor or shifter pin  But charge battery and re try (engine running side stand up)  as batterys do sometimes cause problems

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Robinjr

Bike is Feb 2019 so battery is only 2 1/2 years old. Should last much longer than that! Fitted battery is Yuasa YTZ14S - is it the correct one?

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ChrisCB
8 minutes ago, Robinjr said:

Bike is Feb 2019 so battery is only 2 1/2 years old. Should last much longer than that! Fitted battery is Yuasa YTZ14S - is it the correct one?

Yes it should but batteries are very fickle things and 3 years is commonly all you get from bike batteries. YTZ14S is correct.

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Robinjr

Just a thought: if the battery was at fault surely the engine wouldn’t have started, which it did, instantly

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Andy m

The DCT ECU is digital , so voltage sensitive. If a closed switch is over 11.8V (1) and an open one under 0.8V (0) and suddenly 7V (3/7th's) appears the computer has to say no. It's like us being told write the numbers 0 to 10 when there are only three boxes on the form. 

 

The next to go is the safety protocols in the partially analogue ABS. 

 

The electromechanical starter motor will always try and if successful is happy. 

 

Andy

Edited by Andy m
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Defender

Given all the information from the owner/rider it seems a bit odd to be a battery issue alone, any other issues that are noticeable?

 

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sandalfarm

Perhaps  listen to davebike  however horrible  his suggestion is

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I'm so glad I've got a manual gearbox.

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Rocker66
37 minutes ago, RoyG said:

I'm so glad I've got a manual gearbox.

I’m glad that you Sid that not me.😀😀😀😟

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Xactly
11 hours ago, RoyG said:

I'm so glad I've got a manual gearbox.

I just thought it…

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MatBin
19 hours ago, RoyG said:

I'm so glad I've got a manual gearbox.

1 problem that could/might be related to being a DCT clutch/box assembly in some way hardly makes all NC DCT clutches/boxes bad news, no more so than one bad clutch basket makes all manual gearboxes a poor choice. Yes I have a DCT bike and a CVT car and yes they are more complex and likely to be expensive to repair or possibly less reliable, anyone have any numbers to prove/disprove that theory, but some of us don't have a choice because of physical disabilities to use a manual gearbox bike.

Bit unkind to gloat.

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Where do you live? (Oxford area), someone could swap battery, just to take away the battery issue, I think Davebike is spot on with his comments.

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outrunner

The only problem I have had with my 2016 DCT was a faulty shift motor but it was intermittent so I doubt it is that unless the motor has failed suddenly. Taking the shift motor out to test it is pretty easy, only 6 fasteners and a plug to remove. Checking the motor is just a case of holding it in your hand (firmly!) and connecting it to a 12 volt battery, if it does not feel like it is twisting out of your grasp it may be faulty. Honda diagnostics does not test the shift motor, which I thought was strange. The problem with my motor was one of the brushes was jumping off the spring that holds it in contact with the commutator. I still think it is unlikely to be the motor, but I have been wrong before. :yes:

 

Andy.

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4 hours ago, MatBin said:

1 problem that could/might be related to being a DCT clutch/box assembly in some way hardly makes all NC DCT clutches/boxes bad news, no more so than one bad clutch basket makes all manual gearboxes a poor choice. Yes I have a DCT bike and a CVT car and yes they are more complex and likely to be expensive to repair or possibly less reliable, anyone have any numbers to prove/disprove that theory, but some of us don't have a choice because of physical disabilities to use a manual gearbox bike.

Bit unkind to gloat.

 

Not gloating, Just genuinely glad that I have a manual. There are four threads on the first page of the Service forum related to dct problems.

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MatBin
56 minutes ago, RoyG said:

 

Not gloating, Just genuinely glad that I have a manual. There are four threads on the first page of the Service forum related to dct problems.

1 was started 4 years ago and just been resurected, with a big gap between posts, so hardly indicative of a major inherent problem with DCT bikes.

1 relates to a bike with an unknown history but the owner assumed big mileage as the clutches are worn beyond service limits, manual boxes also suffer worn clutches, albeit considerably cheaper to fix admittedly.

1 relates to reseting initialisation failing, unknown cause.

There are other threads where owners are stating large mileages on DCT based bikes with no problems at all.

It sounded like gloating if it wasn't then all's well, trouble with Forums you can't always decipher someone's intent, but I fail to see how your comments help the OP solve his issue.

 

Edited by MatBin
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43 minutes ago, MatBin said:

1 was started 4 years ago and just been resurected, with a big gap between posts, so hardly indicative of a major inherent problem with DCT bikes.

1 relates to a bike with an unknown history but the owner assumed big mileage as the clutches are worn beyond service limits, manual boxes also suffer worn clutches, albeit considerably cheaper to fix admittedly.

1 relates to reseting initialisation failing, unknown cause

 

I'd better not mention the five on page three then.:no:

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davebike

I see a LOT of nc's in the workshop and a good few are dct  and yes I see I think 6 dct with issues  but two were stolen and recovered! and two "crashed" owner should not own a disk lock!!

I own a dct myself  I had  isssues it was the battery Bike had been a garage queen when I got it 2200 miles in 18mounths  ( now 2 1/2 years 17k miles)  not a moments since new battery

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