splke 1,244 Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 Anyone tackled these ? i was thinking of replacing mine but looks like it could be a bit of an arse so may pay someone Link to post
davebike 943 Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 All the nc forks are very similar and for me really easy Strip them out:- front brake calliper off wheel out mudguard off losen bolts in top and bottom yokes pull out forks Do one fork at a time, remove dust seal remove seal clip invert fork and remove bottom bolt (this may need an impact driver) Hold fork over drain tray and remove oil slide the two bits appart hammering like a slide hammer to remove seal Let both bits drain ! ! reasemble leg to damper refit bottom bolt hand tight slid the top bush into place with the washer on top hammer down carefully refit the seal also a push fit old seal can act as a drift refit clip and dust seal Invert remove bottom bolt and usea funnel to refill Repeat with 2nd leg refit and assemble bike I do in 90 minuites or so but I have lots of cheat tools 6 Link to post
splke 1,244 Posted July 14, 2021 Author Share Posted July 14, 2021 thank you for the reply would it need to be on a ramp ? only have a paddock stand not sure if i could manage it with just that Link to post
skorpion 945 Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 Have my eye on these seals, look good to me though davebike may know better. https://www.that auction site.co.uk/itm/283699481233?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 1 Link to post
Xactly 5,419 Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 When I removed the forks on my Nc750x to fit gaiters I used a scissor jack with a piece of wood under the engine. The trick is to loosen all the bolts before jacking it up and to remove, fix and replace one fork leg at a time. While I have a centre stand I think the same technique could be used with a rear paddock stand, maybe with axle stands under the footrests. Dunno. As Davebike has said the job itself is pretty straightforward. Hope that helps. 1 Link to post
Mr Toad 9,022 Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 I did the seals on my NC and they are really easy as per davebike's instructions. No ramp or lift needed, I did mine while it was on the centre stand. Link to post
outrunner 4,457 Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 Maybe just me, but I would go for genuine Honda seals, expensive yes, but as mine has done 62000 miles and not needed any they obviously last well. Andy. Link to post
davebike 943 Posted July 15, 2021 Share Posted July 15, 2021 I mostly use Ariete (Ari) or OEM but that just what I prefer I only use OEM if the fork is having problems or customer requests them I don't think they are much if any better We keep seals in stock but there no way I have over100 sets as we do at OEP prices even with trade discount!! The only difficult parts are making sure the bike is safe while the front wheel is out OK with main stand not with only a side stand or paddock stand I would say no mainstand an ABBA stand is the ONLY safe way to do forks seen / heard of far too many paddock stand and jack accadents 2 Link to post
Noel Hynes 28 Posted July 31, 2021 Share Posted July 31, 2021 Hi there- I found this excellent video on Youtube re fork seal replacement. Last year I got a mechanic to replace both of my front seals and the bike had only done under 4000 miles- upon removal he advised that there was a possibility these had been done before. So last August both front seals replaced and guess what with **** etc- 50 miles in and one of them is leaking again !!!! I am awaiting on the mechanic to come back as he agreed this should not have happened. This link was very useful as I have now removed the fork myself. Noel. 2 Link to post
DaveStewart 267 Posted July 31, 2021 Share Posted July 31, 2021 On 14/07/2021 at 08:37, davebike said: All the nc forks are very similar and for me really easy LOL Straight to the garage/dealer for me. Link to post
Mark8arker 527 Posted July 31, 2021 Share Posted July 31, 2021 Quiet simple jod to do. Can be time consuming first time. But very satisfying once done. Make sure set up your work area first. Put small piece wood under centre stand to lift the bike up a bit more. Good luck Link to post
wjvh 999 Posted August 2, 2021 Share Posted August 2, 2021 It’s easy to do, worth doing to learn how these things work etc. I would recommend buying a proper seal driver though, 41mm, motion pro recommended. Link to post
Xactly 5,419 Posted August 2, 2021 Share Posted August 2, 2021 Better still, fit fork gaiters and save yourself the trouble.....I used Triumph ones. They also have 41mm forks. 2 Link to post
t5er 74 Posted August 13, 2021 Share Posted August 13, 2021 Once you have replaced the seals another tip is to buy some fork tube protectors.I bought some cheap ones out of the "bargain bucket" at my local bike shop just to keep the crud off the first couple of inches and to give the dust seals some help .They also prevent stone chips which lead to rust and seal failure.I agree with Xactly gaiters are the ideal solution but in my experience when they split contamination can sit in the areas you are protecting thus giving you problems you are trying to prevent.I prefer to keep an eye on things but this is my opinion but I am however also in agreement with the "gaiter camp". Safe riding Link to post
Xactly 5,419 Posted August 13, 2021 Share Posted August 13, 2021 24 minutes ago, t5er said: Once you have replaced the seals another tip is to buy some fork tube protectors.I bought some cheap ones out of the "bargain bucket" at my local bike shop just to keep the crud off the first couple of inches and to give the dust seals some help .They also prevent stone chips which lead to rust and seal failure.I agree with Xactly gaiters are the ideal solution but in my experience when they split contamination can sit in the areas you are protecting thus giving you problems you are trying to prevent.I prefer to keep an eye on things but this is my opinion but I am however also in agreement with the "gaiter camp". Safe riding Yes, gaiters do have drawbacks but I prefer them to protectors. I just loosen the bottom fastener periodically and have a look. The ones I have have the air holes positioned sensibly to minimise the risk of water penetration. Really the old fashioned metal shrouds as on RE singles are the best. Link to post
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