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Chain joiner link?


omy005

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G'day all, I've picked up a new chain and sprocket set for my Integra and the chain only came with a clip type of joining link, instead of the OEM riveted one. Is this OK to use? I've used clip type ones on previous bikes years ago without issue.

 

Thanks.

 

clip.jpg 

 

IMG-20211006-174721.jpg

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ChrisCB

Personally I'd use the rivet link as I have the tools to do it, I'm sure RK are confident of the clips performance if they supply it with the chain kit.

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Grumpy old man

There are a couple of threads about spring clips and it would appear a bit of a Marmite topic, personally I use the clips on both bikes and 🤞 have had no issues just make sure you fit it correctly.  Although a use the spring clips I still take the swing arms off when changing chains just to give everything a clean and grease up.

A tip I learned from the forum us to paint the clip with enamel, helps secure it but I find more useful is it makes it stand out so everytime I approach the bike I notice it.

 

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Andy m

Clip is fine and certainly better than a badly done rivet. 

 

Andy

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listener
46 minutes ago, Andy m said:

Clip is fine and certainly better than a badly done rivet. 

 

Andy

 

As long as you put it on the right way round! ;)

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alhendo1

I've fitted a clip to my Did chain and sprocket kit on the CB500X... It's been fine so far and a doddle to fit... .. I daresay there's a line somewhere where section of chain/bhp/torque dictates a rivet link but not sure where that is... Maybe other members will chime in with that info but I'd be happy to fit one to an Integra or NC...... Just my £0.02 worth. 

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Andy m

It's race fashion and what's easier for production, but a full answer would need serious calculation. 

 

Honda fit continous because they can, before the swing arm is bolted on and its easier than clip or rivet. 

Its hard to tell what the manufacturers were thinking in some cases. Honda used the same size chain on the CB250 that Rotax/Aprillia/BMW used on the F650. 

Racers use 100%+ of the available strength, road riders much less. 

Lawyers and people settling maintenance may well gravitate towards rivets. 

 

Without all the numbers we can only go by experience and that says 55HP never needed rivets either on an NC or 1950's Brit bike. 

 

Andy

Edited by Andy m
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ChrisCB

Using the clip is just craziness, you'll be fitting tubed tyres next 😉 

  • Haha 2
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Steve Case

I must admit I struggle to see why a 55HP motorcycle chain fitted with a new correctly fitted clip would be an issue.

 

The problem I've found in the past is getting a decent chain tool.

 

With the hollow rivets I think most chain tools are (almost) adequate, but has anyone found a chain tool that deals with solid rivets and you can still use afterwards?

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ChrisCB

D.I.D KM500R, with a bit of shopping around £100 ish.

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Xactly

Same here; a good Commando put out about 60bhp. They used chains with split links without bother. As long as the chain is properly adjusted and lubricated and the split link is installed the right way round it should be fine.

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I dont know how many miles of chain, with spring link connectors, I have fitted to all types of machinery over the last 56 years, but I can only think of a couple times when the spring link has failed. Having said that I have a riveting tool so always use it on the bikes. I also use Chainsaw chain oil, it is designed to work in a hostile enviroment, clings and is also not expensive. (nearly said cheap, but nothing is days).

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New chain and sprockets on the bike now, much quieter now and possibly seems smoother. 😀

 

But I do have a question with regards to the tensioners. How do you make sure they are both set the same and the wheel is not slightly skew? I just measured from the end of the swing arm to the end of the adjuster threads to see if they were the same.

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Andy m

Steel rule on either the threads on the adjuster or from the end of the swing arm to the centre of the axle. 

 

The marks on the swing arm should agree but trying to judge even half a mark is inaccurate. 

 

You might know this, but only use the adjusters to pull the axle back, there is a lot of hysterisis if you start pushing. If you overshoot, slacken off and go again. 

 

Andy

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6 hours ago, omy005 said:

New chain and sprockets on the bike now, much quieter now and possibly seems smoother. 😀

 

But I do have a question with regards to the tensioners. How do you make sure they are both set the same and the wheel is not slightly skew? I just measured from the end of the swing arm to the end of the adjuster threads to see if they were the same.

 

I use a digital vernier that I have to measure the gap on each side. Keep both sides within half a mm.

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fj_stuart

I'm very much against spring links. I've only had one fail (that I can remember) but one is one too many. A properly fitted rivet link (and it isn't hard to do) will never fail. I don't get the power argument. Power is transmitted through the link plates & pins. There is no force on the spring link. But would you ride a Hayabusa with a spring link? I've seen a spring link broken in half on a friend's bike which was pretty scary.

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In all the years of riding (except on the BMW's) I've never had a spring link fail [famous last words] 

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3 hours ago, iaink said:

 

I use a digital vernier that I have to measure the gap on each side. Keep both sides within half a mm.

 

Thanks for that,I'll give it a go. 👍

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SteveThackery

Of course, the only proper way is to align the wheels using a laser tool, or a home made jig.  Then note any discrepancy between the engraved marks one either side of the swing arm, and maintain that discrepancy when adjusting the chain in the future.

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