Crankshaft hole cap

[Gringo 5,073]

It seems I have this joy to come very soon. My first attempt to do the valve clearances looms ever closer. I'll get a new plug(s) ordered. 

[Steve Case 949]

Start spraying the pentrating on now then. Gives you half a chance when you come to remove them.

[Xactly 5,368]

I read about this in the early days of my ownership, so I removed mine and put grease on the threads. I loosen them and re-tighten every so often.

[TartanX 12]

New cap arrived today , greased accordingly and installed at 4nm. Will take previous advice and slacken and retorque periodically just to make sure I don’t have to go through that stress trying to get it off again. 

[gonzo 2,211]

Just had the same prob with my Yamaha serow ! The biggest screw driver I used was chewing the cap up ! So leaned the bike right over so I could put some grunt into the job and used a 1” wood chisel in the slot after heating up a casting with a hair dryer, it finally moved , and bugger me it was plastic ! This bike is 35 years old ,

[Xactly 5,368]

It’s surprising (to me) what is plastic these days. I didn’t expect the oil pump gears in either the RE Classic or Triumph Thruxton I used to own to be plastic, but there we are. All in the interests of quietness apparently. Only a small number of instances of their melting…..

[Slowboy 20,405]

Plastics have been used for auxiliary gear trains in engines for years. Good material if used in the right applications.

 

The US developed a material called Torlon, if I remember correctly, which could be used as a cylinder block with metal liners. I’m sure that was developed in the 1980s.

 

ps, here we are

 

Edited March 11, 2023 by Freeroader

[Wacio 0]

If you cant remove the cap - don't sweat. I tried mine and stopped just short of stripping it. I had access to the view port so did put the bike into 6th gear ant using clutch while reversing pushed it forward with clutch lever released pulling the engine forward until correct mark was visible. I adjusted valves this way, without removing the 30mm crank shaft port cover. If you cant remove the view port to see marks, it is possible to remove spark plugs and use wood long dowel or plastic rod to verify TDC of each cylinder. Technically you could do it without removing either (but would be much less convenient).

[Egg on Leggs 110]

Ei, wne I were a lad....1972.

 

Had the same problem, the Honda Tech took the time to explain the dynamics of an over tightened O ring, it basically becomes a wedge.

 

The big mistake is over tightening, they only need to be hand tight using the socket. The O ring resists the cap becoming undone. Never had one stick, or loosen, since.

[ASB 21]

I found this a very interesting thread because when doing my first (after the dealer's 600 mile one) service, I found the oil filter incredibly hard to shift.  The proper Honda tool simply distorted the filter and rounded it and my car type squeeze and destroy, did exactly that while forcing it off.  Could that big o ring also be a wedge? Any ideas?

[Slowboy 20,405]

11 hours ago, ASB said:

I found this a very interesting thread because when doing my first (after the dealer's 600 mile one) service, I found the oil filter incredibly hard to shift.  The proper Honda tool simply distorted the filter and rounded it and my car type squeeze and destroy, did exactly that while forcing it off.  Could that big o ring also be a wedge? Any ideas?

Just over tightening most likely. Also helps to run a bit of oil over the seal before it’s tightened. So long as it comes off though, a bit of damage won’t hurt😁

[MPG100 381]

Ok, am being lazy but where is the crankshaft hole cap eg N/S or O/S of the bike. There is large diameter hex cap by my left ankle in centre of black Honda case but thought that was DCT? Also are there any other timebombs quietly seizing away? EG, is it easy to remove the exhaust manifold then copper slip the exhaust studs (presumably there is a copper gasket which will need to be replaced?). FYI, I have just removed the centre stand, repainted it using rust converter then Tetrosyl Chassis Black (because Mr Hammerite tech chap did NOT recommend Direct to Rust smooth satin black) and regreased it. THks!

[Xactly 5,368]

Just undo the exhaust manifold nuts, apply Coppaslip, refit. I do that to all my new bikes. Take off the exhaust clamp and do the same. Fit fork gaiters. Basically prep the bike  when new as it should have been delivered. You only get one change - ride it through salt and it's too late. The timing plug on the manual is nearside. I took mine out when the bike was new and put a bit of grease on it. 

[jeremyr62 2,540]

 

1 hour ago, Xactly said:

Just undo the exhaust manifold nuts

 

I sometimes swap out the exhaust studs and nuts for stainless. Some people consider this a bad idea but I've never had an issue with them seizing or galling. The exhaust fasteners and header clamps on a FJR I owned from new corroded so badly, it was major surgery getting them out. I had to get a second hand set of headers as the clamps were not removable or replaceable without cutting and welding something. Lesson learned.  

[MPG100 381]

Removing the exhaust manifold will be a win win because it means I can coppaslip and do a 'deep clean' on the engine. Err where do I look up torque settings for stuff NOT documented in the minor manual that came with the bike? Thks again

[Skidt 1,299]

2 minutes ago, MPG100 said:

Err where do I look up torque settings for stuff NOT documented in the minor manual that came with the bike? Thks again

I think you’ll find that info in the relèvent pages of the service manuals. These are in the ”Downloads” section available on this forum to supporters.