2021 DCT 2 months on: A couple of questions

[Big E 29]

 

I've now had my DCT NC for a couple of months. It's had it's 1st service and I am loving the bike.

 

I'll soon be posting details of the mods I've done with some pix if anyone is interested.

 

A couple of questions though: Apologies if these have been covered elsewhere but I can't specifically find them.

 

1.    With only 1100 miles on my bike, the chain is showing a fair amount of rust. Is this purely because a cheapo chain

is used fitted by Honda or is there something I should be doing, chain wise? On my last bike (Tiger 800) I hardly

touched the chain in 5 years.

 

2.    When wheeling bike out of garage, I've noticed it is really hard to move bike. Getting it onto the centrestand

I notice the rear wheel is difficult to turn. Is this due to the DCT nature of the bike whereby I am trying to turn half

the engine and gearbox as well, or is it just that the engine needs warming up before moving bike? 

 

 

[SteveThackery 3,090]

It's not the best chain, to be honest.  I'd be spraying it with chain lube a bit more frequently in order to keep the rust at bay.

 

Re. your second question: no, it's not normal for the rear wheel to be difficult to turn.  Both clutches are disengaged when the engine is not running (they use oil pressure to push them into engagement).  It's more likely to be the handbrake adjusted a bit tight, I reckon.  

[RC166 693]

Good to hear you are really enjoying your bike. Maybe worth posting a close up pic of the chain so we can see what’s going on. Also what products you use on the chain.

 

With regard to the rear wheel being difficult to turn, make sure the handbrake is releasing correctly. Sounds like the cable is not fully disengaging and the pads are binding on the disc. 

[jeremyr62 2,530]

I had reason to look at a VFR800F 2014 the other day. I couldn't get over the size of the chain (530 I expect) compared to the bicycle chain we have on the NC.

As pointed out, the OE NC chain is not great, but if you are commuting or going to be doing high miles, I recommend a Scottoiler or some other regular chain lube which will lubricate the chain and keep corrosion at bay.

[MatBin 5,075]

If the hand brake is binding it needs sorting RIGHT NOW or it will ruin the pads in the handbrake and they are not cheap, surprised the dealer didn't pick it up during the service. If it's not the handbrake, it might be the rear brake binding and that too needs sorting.

If it's neither of those it might be the rear wheel bearing.

Whatever it is it needs sorting straight away and if your dealer is nearby I would go back and get them to sort it as they missed it during the service and complain loudly.

I have a simple/cheap manual chain oiler on my bike and rust isn't an issue, see Loobman website.

Edited January 5, 2022 by MatBin

[SteveThackery 3,090]

By the way, @Big E, are you definitely selecting neutral each time before switching it off?

 

It's moderately important that you do, because otherwise it has to select neutral itself next time you switch the ignition on.  The problem is that it is harder to move through the gears when the engine is not running, and sometimes it doesn't work and you have to rock the bike back and forth to let it select neutral before it will start.

 

I ask this simply because if you switch it off when it is in gear, then you will definitely feel a bit more drag on the back wheel because you are also turning half the gearbox.

 

So, be sure it is in neutral before switching off and see if the drag persists.

[Empty_Ten 441]

RE the rusty chain, the stock chain isn't the best quality.   They will need a lot more maintenance than say one of the gold chains from DID, AFAM, Tsubaki etc.  Have you cleaned it at all during the 1100 miles?  If not, then I wouldn't be surprised that it's rusty.  A good clean with Chain Cleaner, 3 sided chain brush should get all the rust off.  Rinse off any excess, thoroughly dry it and then a coating of XCP or ACF50 will help (plus regular lubrication).   

 

The rear wheel shouldn't be hard to turn at all.  Like the others suggested, I would suggest you go back to the servicing workshop share your concerns with them.

 

Nice looking bike, kind of wish I'd got the 2021 model now.

 

 

[embattle 332]

Mine always gained a lot of surface rust colour, which seemed easy to remove.

 

As Steve said, check you definitely turn it off in neutral.

[temp 359]

ST is right.

Select neutral before turning the ignition off.

Also brake discs and pads quickly develop rust at this time of year which can make pushing difficult as they tend to bind together. 

Modern chains have sealed lubrication, so cosmetic rust is irrelevant and chain lube is a ripoff.

Anything else then back to the dealer. 

 

[jeremyr62 2,530]

4 minutes ago, temp said:

Modern chains have sealed lubrication, so cosmetic rust is irrelevant and chain lube is a ripoff.

Hohoho. I beg to differ. 

[temp 359]

2 minutes ago, jeremyr62 said:

Hohoho. I beg to differ. 

I am happy to be educated, please tell me more. 

[jeremyr62 2,530]

 

[baben 11,695]

My bike (2021 DCT) was fitted with a Tutoro oiler from new. Done 2000 miles now and not needed to adjust the chain and it still looks shiny new. The rear wheel should not be binding at all so deffo back to the dealer - damn it, it is almost brand new! When I pull up, I put the side stand down and the engine drops into neutral and stops so not sure if turning the ignition off would do the same. 

[embattle 332]

It seems to go in neutral the majority of the time when turning off the ignition but sometimes I've felt it hasn't when pushing back.

[jeremyr62 2,530]

If it's not in neutral I doubt it will go anywhere. I have always killed the engine with the kill switch on every bike I have owned and 50% of the time I do it on my NC. It never fails to find neutral. So I doubt this is the issue. I am not advocating using the kill switch btw. It probably is better for the gearbox to switch into neutral first.

I think the parking brake is a much more likely culprit.

[embattle 332]

I was taught never to use the kill switch unless necessary, such as accident or something.

[temp 359]

2 hours ago, jeremyr62 said:

 

Thank you, that was interesting. 

But kinda confirms that chain lube is only useful for low mileage riders.

[jeremyr62 2,530]

51 minutes ago, embattle said:

I was taught never to use the kill switch unless necessary, such as accident or something.

I suggest that's an urban myth. If you look at the wiring diagram of bikes it just kills the ignition. It can't do any harm and my experience would confirm it.

[Trev 18,555]

10 minutes ago, jeremyr62 said:

I suggest that's an urban myth. If you look at the wiring diagram of bikes it just kills the ignition. It can't do any harm and my experience would confirm it.

 Not sure about doing any harm but hitting kill switch on my 2012 NC DCT and my 2016 AT DCT whilst still in gear resulted in bike being harder to push around due to gear still being engaged. On a DCT there is simply no reason not to press the N switch before you turn the engine off, whether you use the kill switch or key.

[jeremyr62 2,530]

Yes, the DCT is a bit different. On my NC if I hit the kill switch the bike still finds neutral, green N lights. I appreciate the gearbox might struggle to do this compared to a running engine but it seems to manage it. My urban myth comment was directed at conventional transmissions. 

[davebike 943]

Quote

Yes, the DCT is a bit different. On my NC if I hit the kill switch the bike still finds neutral, green N lights. I appreciate the gearbox might struggle to do this compared to a running engine but it seems to manage it.

It is only a suspition but I have seen a good few broken shift pins and most all seem to be riders who do not select netural befor switching off the engine

 

Rust on chain ssays you not using enough lub or an a sutitable  one remember not only dose the chain flex but it runs over the Sprocket hence my beliffe the BMW never neeed to lub chain is rubbish and a marketing gimmic   My oridgnal chain was not great when I got my bike only 2200 miles but in poor shape  but add a scotoiler and extra spray and it is going strong at 23K miles

[Xactly 5,324]

10 hours ago, embattle said:

I was taught never to use the kill switch unless necessary, such as accident or something.

You’re right. The kill switch was introduced in the USA as a safety feature to allow the engine to be quickly turned off after a spill, the idea being that a third party won’t necessarily be able quickly to find the location of the ignition key (which isn’t standard). The key should be used to turn off the ignition. 

[Xactly 5,324]

9 hours ago, jeremyr62 said:

I suggest that's an urban myth. If you look at the wiring diagram of bikes it just kills the ignition. It can't do any harm and my experience would confirm it.

So what’s the point? Kill the engine then turn off the ignition anyway, or risk damaging a coil if you forget?

[jeremyr62 2,530]

We will just have to agree to differ.

[Xactly 5,324]

Sorry, disregard the coil thing - I meant risk a flat battery by forgetting to turn off the ignition. I still don’t see why two actions are preferred to one.