It's good to torque

[MPG100 402]

Took off various bits over the winter to give my 2018 nc750x dct a good clean eg: O/S large black cover from around oil filler cap, the exhaust silencer, alloy plate that carries rider and pillion pegs, N/S front chain sprocket cover (hit rich vein of crap in there!) and N/S small lump of plastic (where the gear change lever would be if i had one!). And now realise I don't know torque settings to put them back. Does anybody know or have an internet link to a list somewhere because the settings are not in my Handbook. Plan B is to put bolts in finger tight then nip them up say 1/4 turn and later check if any have come loose BUT to get access to check say the front chain sprocket cover I'd have to remove other bits first...arrgghhh....any help appreciated!

[MatBin 5,100]

What's a torque setting

seriously nip any bolts/nuts up tight but don't strip the threads has always been my policy, add a bit of locking compound if you're really worried. 

Torque settings are in my view, cobblers, it depends on so many variables, is the bolt clean and dry, has the wrench been calibrated recently etc. I believe it's all in the manual so as to give the mechanic some idea of how tight to do things up.

But what do I know?

[Empty_Ten 452]

There is a 2016-2017 service manual here 

 

https://www.powermanuals.com/honda-nc700x-nc750x-service-manual-free-download/

 

I think the difference between 2016 and And 2018 is just the addition of traction control.  So I would’ve thought that the torque values are the same.

 

[Steve Case 955]

You can always use the kraut method and just threadlock everything, seriously though the torque setting is by strength class and diameter of shaft such as M4.

 

I think the stregtn class of the screws and bolts on the honda is between 8 & 10, I need to look

 

See here for torque setting by thread diameter and strength class

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/metric-bolts-maximum-torque-d_2054.html

 

[Steve Case 955]

And if its plastic covers just give em a tweak

[Andy m 23,603]

1 hour ago, MatBin said:

 

Torque settings are in my view, cobblers, 

On a side panel, working into a rivnut thing, using the workshop bar-with-numbers, totally agree. 

 

On a cylinder head things are different. 

 

Rough rule to tell the difference. A permanent torque setting with two of anything is real, two stages, two components in the stack (so lid and gasket). If it isn't permanent, (removed for normal service) and is just a single value, its an air gun setting for the factory only. The purpose is to stop line gorillas breaking things. You can also work by value. Having skimmed a head, paying for the wrench to be calibrated isn't the end of the world. 

 

I would not take the slipper wrench out of its box on an oil change. 

 

Andy 

Edited April 13, 2022 by Andy m

[Xactly 5,446]

On something like a cylinder head it is more important to tighten the nuts or bolts down evenly than to tighten to a precise torque, otherwise there is a risk of a gasket blowing. For me that is the main reason in using a torque wrench - all the nuts will be tightened the same.

Tightening finger tight + 1/4 turn is fine for an oil filter but nowhere near enough for a large nut/bolt.