Rear brake problems

[Tomblue 36]

My bike is a 2021 NC750XA  Firstly I must say "hands up it is all my fault".      Old age and I won't go into details but I have not a lot of feeling in my feet. Also I always wear  fairly stout boots. The other day I noticed my bike was feeling decidedly sluggish and I thought maybe this was a fuel problem as I had topped up  twenty or so miles back. A few miles further on I shifted in the saddle and bike leapt forward and got quite spritely. Then it struck me that I have been riding with my foot on the brake peddle.  The next morning I examined the brake peddle and after a few experiments I could see that my natural ankle / foot angle was resting on the brake. 

The disc looks scored so I removed the pads. Apart from being heavily chamfered the pads look ok but as I don't know how thick they are when new, I cannot jusdge. I understand the pads are chamfered at the factory - I wonder why?

What pads do others use for replacements EBC?   what type?

What make / spec do others use to lubricate the slider pins? 

I'll also bleed out the fluid in case it been a little overheated.

Edited April 14, 2022 by Tomblue
typo

[Andy m 23,600]

You can tell the wear left by the slot cut in the rubbing material, no slot left, buy new pads. They start 5-6mm thick maybe. 

 

If you are looking at a chamfered corner on the pads its just to make them easier to get out of the mould. There are no doubt other claims about them washing whiter than white and having a nice minty smell, but after 25 years of hearing this stuff day in day out I no longer believe it. 

 

If you have a pad worn wedge shaped it's because one piston is freer or something on the calliper is stuck. Clean, reassemble, don't worry some designs will do it to some pads. 

 

There is no way you overheated the fluid, the extra will have done more good for shifting water. Road vehicle brakes run too cold. 

 

New pads: Anything with a logo you recognise and might give a **** if they got a bad review on MCN. I don't like Goldfren, they started as Chinese dross, but anything above that is fine. Buy from somewhere reputable, 30% of what's out there is fake. 

 

Slider pins want a general grease. Use rubber friendly if you are going to do the calliper pots in the same stuff. 

 

You may have glazed the pads. Take a look. If they look glassy they need pressure and heat to clear, so go ride it like you stole it, remembering the glazed pads are potentially at about 50% of what they should be performance wise. If the Italian tune up won't shift it, new pads. You can do what you like "dressing" them but the usual result is only bits of tool steel or carborundum embedded in the rubbing material which will wear the disc for little gain. If glaze is too thick to crumble and fall off the pad is kaput. l

 

Andy 

Edited April 14, 2022 by Andy m

[MatBin 5,100]

Anything from Wemoto will do. Andy won't like this, so long as the material stops the piston/backing plate hitting the disc is fine as far as I am concerned, 80/90% of braking is on the front anyway

[Steve Case 955]

EBC cos I like Northampton.

 

Oh and a cast iron disk if you can find one...

[RC166 698]

12 minutes ago, Steve Case said:

EBC cos I like Northampton.

 

Oh and a cast iron disk if you can find one...

Aha, and why do you like Northampton? I live in the county and there are some lovely parts to explore, but unfortunately the town centre, in my view has little to offer.

Yep, EBC has a huge distribution centre in Northampton, but I think their manufacturing is done in Bristol? 

[Steve Case 955]

Lived in jimmies end for a couple of years, but had to move for work.

I liked the town except friday night when the nobs came out to get drunk.

I thought there was a factory on that site as well. I actually thought there was more than one factory.

Had the GS when i lived there

[Steve Case 955]

Oh and Tom if it looks alrite an feels alrite thats probaly cos it is alrite..

Cheers

[Tomblue 36]

Some nice advice here so thanks for that. Here's a picture of the chamfer on the pad. If it's normal then I think it is a little over the top.

[Andy m 23,600]

That pad has been hanging up against something. Everything needs a good clean and lube. Take a look at the mounting pins too. 

 

By the time it clears itself it'll be on the wear line, so I'd change it. 

 

Andy 

[Grumpy old man 4,682]

Think I'd be replacing them. EBC fo some semi sinitered rears for £18.

https://bikes.ebcbrakeshop.co.uk/info-parts?part-type=brakes&make=HONDA&model=NC+750+X+(NC+750+XAE%2F+ABS)&year=2014-2018&search=Part+Number

 

If you order take a look at the stock levels  there's a minus in front of some but you're OK for the semi sintered.

[outrunner 4,457]

I use the fully sintered HH pads in the front on mine but I can not help you with the rear as I still have the original pads in, even after nearly 71 thousand miles.

 

Andy.

[DCTPaul 629]

That don't look right...

Me? I'd have new set of EBCs...

Generaly I prefer the feel of Organic or the Carbon over Sintered HH for Front and Rear...

Although i've not tried on the NC and on its original pads.

 

If you have Sintered HH Front you can have Sintered HH or Organic Rear...

If you have Sintered HH Rear you must have Sintered HH Front

 

Red Rubber Grease for all the sliding and retaining pins...

[Grumpy old man 4,682]

44 minutes ago, DCTPaul said:

you have Sintered HH Front you can have Sintered HH or Organic Rear...

If you have Sintered HH Rear you must have Sintered HH Front

Didn't know that. I have semi sinitered on rear and organic on front, I would have put organic on the rear but there wasn't any in stock.

Thanks

[DCTPaul 629]

Think it's an MoT grumble...

Rear's can't be more more powerfull or higher friction than the front...

could be wrong mind...

[Tomblue 36]

Both pads were the same having done 950 miles since new.

As both pads look like that I must assume that is how it was put together

If there was slop in the pins or fitting that caused extreme wear then I would expect the wear to be on one side and not on both side and lower edge of both pads. 

 

Edited April 20, 2022 by Tomblue

[DCTPaul 629]

pads like that look almost like the bike has been used for a while without the rear axle being done up, the caliper mounting bolts loose or with shot wheel bearings

Edited April 20, 2022 by DCTPaul

[fj_stuart 4,759]

I've fixed a lot of brakes in my time but this one has me beat. I can't imagine how the pad and the disc got so out of kilter as to cause this damage.

[Andy m 23,600]

10 hours ago, fj_stuart said:

I've fixed a lot of brakes in my time but this one has me beat. I can't imagine how the pad and the disc got so out of kilter as to cause this damage.

Don't assume brake lining will wear like milling aluminium. The stuff is mechanically like cheese and responds as much to heat and pressure as mechanical wear. If there is vibration the bit in free air can crumble off. Also the disc can float. 

 

Pad whisperers and CSI wannabes are generally just amusing. Put it back as it should be and watch the next set of linings go through is the only way. 

On 20/04/2022 at 20:58, DCTPaul said:

pads like that look almost like the bike has been used for a while without the rear axle being done up, the caliper mounting bolts loose or with shot wheel bearings

A definate possibility to which you can add disc to hub bolts. 

On 19/04/2022 at 21:58, DCTPaul said:

Think it's an MoT grumble...

Rear's can't be more more powerfull or higher friction than the front...

could be wrong mind...

I'd be interested in which section of the manual says that. IIRC 

 

1.2.2. Brake efficiency

Most motorcycles have 2 brake controls, one operating the front wheel brake and the other the rear wheel brake. One control must achieve an efficiency of at least 30% and the other control 25%.

 

This is however the sort of **** MOT testers make up. Point out they are wrong and you'll get failed for a strident horn or because he's got his thumb behind the lever. The manual section is badly written, it can be read:

 

... 2 brake controls... #1 operating the front, the other (which must be #2) operating the rear... #1 must be 30% the other (#2) 25%.

 

Why they should have automated test lanes, or just admit inspection doesn't work, argument number 77. 😒

 

Andy 

Edited April 22, 2022 by Andy m

[skorpion 945]

I found that EBC HH pads in the rear brake work better and have more feel than the standard Honda pads.

[DCTPaul 629]

Q... Is there a part number on the pads?

lots of pads look the same... possible the wrong pads have been fitted... if to wide say? might catch on something like the sprocket nut?