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Pgm-fi light on solid


APB 235

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Hi, 

 

Wonder if anyone has any ideas. My NC750x 2017 was sat for two weeks over Christmas period but started fine last week for two day commuting (120 miles or so) with no problems. Today adjusted my chain and put bike in gear on while on centre stand and revved bike to check chain and wheel all ok. PGM-FI light stayed on and solid. Rode bike down drive and abs light etc went off but warning light stayed on. Looking on other parts of forum, I took bike for a 40 min ride and bike rode perfectly with no issues starting, idle, revving or speed. Light stayed solid throughout. Read somewhere that I could have caused fault running bike on centre stand in gear. Is this possible? Just want to narrow down options before call garage tomorrow.

 

Thanks 

 

Andy

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Xactly
15 minutes ago, APB 235 said:

Hi, 

 

Wonder if anyone has any ideas. My NC750x 2017 was sat for two weeks over Christmas period but started fine last week for two day commuting (120 miles or so) with no problems. Today adjusted my chain and put bike in gear on while on centre stand and revved bike to check chain and wheel all ok. PGM-FI light stayed on and solid. Rode bike down drive and abs light etc went off but warning light stayed on. Looking on other parts of forum, I took bike for a 40 min ride and bike rode perfectly with no issues starting, idle, revving or speed. Light stayed solid throughout. Read somewhere that I could have caused fault running bike on centre stand in gear. Is this possible? Just want to narrow down options before call garage tomorrow.

 

Thanks 

 

Andy

Yes. Don’t run the bike in gear on its mainstand. It confuses the ABS because it expects rotational speed of front and rear wheels to be the same, not one static.

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I did the same a while back, whilst cleaning / lubing the chain.
I ended up ordering a cheap diagnostic tool from that auction site. I was going to use this to investigate  and hopefully reset the light.

this is the one that I bought. 
https://www.that auction site.co.uk/itm/283651302848?hash=item420aef65c0:g:HgoAAOSwE91dh6Jl

However, a day or so later, the light reset itself. 
I’d give it a day or two and see if yours does the same.
Failing that, I guess you could always disconnect the battery and leave it a while before reconnecting it. That might reset it for you? 
good luck. 👍

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jeremyr62

Not the same scenario causing it to come on, but when I was messing with the vehicle speed sensor I had the light come on too, and it also went out of its own accord after a few rides. So maybe wait a while before splurging out.

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2 hours ago, Xactly said:

Yes. Don’t run the bike in gear on its mainstand. It confuses the ABS because it expects rotational speed of front and rear wheels to be the same, not one static.

I have done this with every bike I have ever owned (wash bike, then run it to dry chain before lubing) without any issues and the last 4 all had ABS. When a bike is on a dyno surely it would cause problems if this was true?  Have I just been lucky?

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Gringo
25 minutes ago, ASB said:

I have done this with every bike I have ever owned (wash bike, then run it to dry chain before lubing) without any issues and the last 4 all had ABS. When a bike is on a dyno surely it would cause problems if this was true?  Have I just been lucky?

I've done the same without any issues. I've also run my 750X DCT in gear on centre stand when oiling the chain.

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Thanks for the feedback. Will run it a few times this week and see if resets. If not, it gives me something to speak to the garage about.

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Andy m

The ABS has to log a fault when the rear sensor reads high and the front zero. After that It's a tick box in the design software as to what the light does (or a line of code given how ancient these bike systems are). Go out when the signal returns? Go out after an ignition cycle when there are two good signals? Latch on until the owner pays the dealer £137 to click clear faults?

 

Which they tick will be an argument between legal, aftermarket and OE marketing  at some design meeting. You can bet on Triumph and BMW choosing diagnostic tool reset and the more sporty brands that might meet dynamometers choosing automatic.

 

Andy

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Empty_Ten

Definitely sounds like it was caused by the bike running whilst on a stand.  It's a recurring question on the MT10 forum I'm on.  

 

It's happened to me once before on the MT10.  I had started the bike after a wash/clean/ACF50 but not running it whilst in gear.  The bike was in neutral and not being run but the rear wheel was slowly spinning - but that was enough for the light to come on.  Luckily mine reset itself when I turned the bike off/on again but it seems that those who were actually running the bike on a stand had to get the fault code reset.

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Empty_Ten
18 hours ago, ASB said:

I have done this with every bike I have ever owned (wash bike, then run it to dry chain before lubing) without any issues and the last 4 all had ABS. When a bike is on a dyno surely it would cause problems if this was true?  Have I just been lucky?

 

RE Dyno's, yep it does happen on there as well but the tuner will (or should) have the OBD (or equivalent tool) to reset the light and remove the fault code.  That's what happened when I had my MT10 ECU remapped.

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1 hour ago, Empty_Ten said:

Definitely sounds like it was caused by the bike running whilst on a stand.  It's a recurring question on the MT10 forum I'm on.  

 

It's happened to me once before on the MT10.  I had started the bike after a wash/clean/ACF50 but not running it whilst in gear.  The bike was in neutral and not being run but the rear wheel was slowly spinning - but that was enough for the light to come on.  Luckily mine reset itself when I turned the bike off/on again but it seems that those who were actually running the bike on a stand had to get the fault code reset.

Had it happen to a 2018 MT10 that I used to own in exactly the manner you described. Had to get mine reset though unfortunately. 

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I have adjusted the chain on mine twice. The first time I lubricated it and popped it into Drive on it's its stand and let the wheel spin a little. On my next ride out, the amber warning light came on and stayed on all the way home. It had though, reset itself by the next day. The second time I just tensioned the chain and moved the wheel manually for a visual inspection. Once again I got the warning light that reset itself. I checked with an obr, that came up with a low voltage warning.

On a slight aside, I am chuffed that I have only had to adjust the chain twice in 8000 miles. Perhaps I ride like a big wet lettuce!

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poldark
2 hours ago, scc said:

I have adjusted the chain on mine twice. The first time I lubricated it and popped it into Drive on it's its stand and let the wheel spin a little. On my next ride out, the amber warning light came on and stayed on all the way home. It had though, reset itself by the next day. The second time I just tensioned the chain and moved the wheel manually for a visual inspection. Once again I got the warning light that reset itself. I checked with an obr, that came up with a low voltage warning.

On a slight aside, I am chuffed that I have only had to adjust the chain twice in 8000 miles. Perhaps I ride like a big wet lettuce!

 

It's not you that's a big wet lettuce, but the bike, other than some of the OEM versions chain life is another positive about the NC.

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Thanks everyone, feel happier having seen all your responses. Will give another couple of rides and hopefully light will reset. If not, at least my local garage are really good biker guys.

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Rode bike to work, stopped for fuel and light reset. Will be manually turning the wheel in the future. Thanks again for the support.

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Slowboy

Thanks for letting us know, that’ll be useful for someone else.

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I run mine on the centrestand at least twice a week to lube the chain, yes the light comes on, but it goes off before I get off the driveway and doesn't seem to cause any problems.

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Andy m

I'd Google "missing fingers lubing motorcycle chain" and then stop doing that.

 

Andy

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1 hour ago, Andy m said:

I'd Google "missing fingers lubing motorcycle chain" and then stop doing that.

 

Andy

Have me a squiggly moment as a mate of mine lost the tip of his pinky (finger :whistle:) year before last doing exactly this. One of those 'been doing it this way for years without a problem ..... Oops, ouch, blimey that stings' moments.

Never really understood the 'advantage' of spinning the wheel by engine power as surely slower is easier to apply the splurge?

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Andy m

I'm not risking not being able to do my favourite hand gestures just to get a bit of lube on quicker.

 

Andy

  • Haha 3
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If you ever do it on a BMW oilhead, you wouldn’t do it again…..

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Just to clarify, I use a Lubeman to drip the oil onto the chain rather than an oil can so as not to coat everything in a 6' radius with oil. When I had the Lubeman fitted to the bike, it kept getting all scrunged up with a mixture of road dirt and oil and stopped working after a while. Using it this way it is easier to get the required amount of oil where it is supposed to be, ie on the chain, not all over the wheel/tyre/me.

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listener
On 12/01/2023 at 15:19, Andy m said:

I'd Google "missing fingers lubing motorcycle chain" and then stop doing that.

 

 

I didn't realise Dave Allan was a biker ... :whistle:

 

Dave-Allen_Am-I-the-Irish.jpg

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