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Thread lock for greasy threads-Any recommendations?


djsb

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I have a few bolts/nuts/screws that the service manual says I should apply thread lock to. As I tend to apply grease to my threads, is there a thread lock fluid that will work well with a small amount of grease still on the threads? Thanks.

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Andy131

I understand the urge to apply grease / oil to threads but if they are not stainless steel I would avoid it. Applying lubricant means that any torque settings are wrong as they are given dry.  Thread lock etc. are designed to stop the thread from coming undone, lubrication has the opposite effect - can't imagine any thread lock manufacturer saying that it is OK with lubricant as they usually say MUST be applied to clean dry fittings.

 

I have worked a lot in the food industry, try undoing a series of un-lubricated M30 stainless steel nuts/bolts and you will understand the meaning of galling.

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Understood, Thanks.

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davebike

If yu going to use nut lock clean the thread with brake cleaner first the nnut lock will prevent corrosion locking

If you not using nutlock grease or copper slip is good espicily wher the thread are different materials as grease helps to prevent corrosion

Bigise issue is stainless steel into Alley always nutlock or alleyslip

 

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Final questions

1/Does it matter if I choose the 272 (RED) or 242 (BLUE) for the bolt that holds the side stand switch onto the side stand? 

2/ I have quite an old bottle of Loctite 242. It's still liquid, but does this stuff have a shelf life.

 

I suppose some (a small drop) locking fluid is better than non. And as long as I remove the grease, it should be OK. Sounds reasonable?

Or I might as well just install a new bolt as recommended in the service manual as it would already have the thread lock on it. I'm checking the cost now.

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Slowboy
2 hours ago, djsb said:

Final questions

1/Does it matter if I choose the 272 (RED) or 242 (BLUE) for the bolt that holds the side stand switch onto the side stand? 

2/ I have quite an old bottle of Loctite 242. It's still liquid, but does this stuff have a shelf life.

 

I suppose some (a small drop) locking fluid is better than non. And as long as I remove the grease, it should be OK. Sounds reasonable?

Or I might as well just install a new bolt as recommended in the service manual as it would already have the thread lock on it. I'm checking the cost now.

LOCTITE 272 is a high strength thread locker. It’s slightly oil resistant(tolerant). It has a relatively high breakaway torque on removal.

 

LOCTITE 242 is a medium strength thread locker. It’s not oil tolerant. 
 

While either would do the job, if it were me I’d use 242 because it’s easier to get apart again. It’s what I use when I use a thread locker.

 

I’d use 272 if it’s components subject to high vibration and I don’t need to get them apart often (or ever again).

 

Hope that helps.

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outrunner

To be honest I would doubt that threadlock is needed for the sidestand switch.

 

Andy.

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steeve139

In the service manual this bolt is described as "ALOC, replace with a new one".  The new bolt will have threadlock already applied to it.  A suitable alternative would be to wire brush the old threadlock off of the bolt and to re-use it with ne threadlock.

 

Usually the Loctite products are called "studlock" or "threadlock".  Studlock is stronger than threadlock.  So a stud that goes into a block should be held with studlock, and then the nut that is put onto that stud should be held with threadlock.  Then on disassembly, the threadlock gives way before the studlock.

 

In the case of the sidestand switch, clean the male and female threads and then apply threadlock the old bolt and use it again.  That is what I'd do..... 

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  • 2 months later...
john mackay

believe it or not I use nail varnish on most of my bolts.

never had a problem. in my 50 years of riding/driving.

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Xactly

Interesting: I use nail varnish remover (acetone) to remove traces of threadlock. Maybe Loctite is just another form of nail varnish…

  • Haha 1
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