Jump to content

DCT error causing no start?


johnny_G

Recommended Posts

johnny_G

hi all, 

I have just bought an NC750X 2015, as a project, around 6000 miles.  I am just trying to get it running, the garage it came from are adamant it ran last week or so!

It's stolen recovered, and a bit broken in places..  no ignition lock, crow bar marks here and there..

 

anyway, so far I have stripped most of the bodywork off, and just playing around checking fuses and so on.  A good battery, and I have a key, the ignition collar is still present, and with the key dropped in there and the 2 ignition-lock wires together I get:

 

All the dash lights up, no gear shown, green neutral light on and various warning lights, EML etc.

No fuel pump activation, 

No starter

HISS goes from flashing to solid.

 

if I turn the kill switch off, A couple of warning lights extinguish, and a flashing dash appears in the gear selector area on the dash.

Rear wheel turns fine, all relays in fuse box click, erm..   

That's all I have achieved in my first hour with the bike..  no questions yet, they will come I am sure!

 

Cheers,

John, E. Sussex

Edited by johnny_G
Link to post
johnny_G
Posted (edited)

day 2 of my new NC750..  have researched, and am a little stuck.. I cant get much EML action, best I can get is a short flash when ignition turned on and diagnostic wires bridged.. otherwise the light is on all the time.

 

Gear selector dash symbol, same result, cant get anything meaningful from this with the bridge in place..  it just flashes on and off at the same intervals (maybe 1 second on, and 1 second off - for ever) - have followed correct procedure.

 

ABS light, this one is showing some faults!  11,12,13,52,53 - I don't think any of these could cut the engine but I may be wrong!

 

so, to summarise, still cant get fuel pump or starter activation, but I am not sure if an immobiliser function, or any of the other errors that may be stored in the ECU, or just bad connections..  

 

Is there a way to prove or disprove the immobilser is working?  all I have is a red HISS on permanently, with igntion..  same result if the key is 20 meters away from the butchered lock!  (Previous garage said they did have bike running last week, with this key near the lock)

 

Does anyone near me have an HDS we could try? :) wine/beer payments of course..

 

I am calm, it's only the third hour on the bike, but would like to start seeing something, even if negative!

 

John

 

edit : will try and diagnose HISS light next..  

Edited by johnny_G
  • Like 1
Link to post
poldark

Sorry I'm not that wonderful mechaning wise, but dash in gear indicator suggests failed DCT reset process or failed DCT sensor.

 

Critical to long term health to always switch to Neutral before switch off (not well publicised)

 

Have you disconnected battery for a period?

  • Like 1
Link to post
johnny_G

thanks Martyn.  Bike is brand new - to me!  yes battery never connected at the moment during testing..   I think my issue is, the bike maybe immobilised and all other issues are further down the line.. from what I (now) understand, HISS should come on with ignition and then go out, not stay on as mine is..  To diagnose the HISS I need a 100 Ohm resistor from somewhere..  Learning fast ;)

 

 

Link to post
poldark

No idea on Immobiliser, but in case that's not the cause I'd suggest wasting five minutes connecting the battery and with ignition on spin the rear wheel on centre stand.

 

We've had occasions when bike "lost" it's place gear-wise and needed to find itself again.

Edited by poldark
Link to post
johnny_G

have done that ;)  even span the starter bridging the relay.. all seems ok..  now more of bike is apart, and the immob collar is away from the remains of the lock, all looks ok..

 

I hate to think I need to buy a lockset, just to see if the bike might run! (I do need a lockset anyway but it's not cheap)

 

 

Link to post
Andy m

The ABS faults won't prevent it from starting. 

 

This is either the gearbox not thinking it can select neutral or the immobiliser IMHO.

 

Andy

  • Like 1
Link to post
johnny_G

agree Andy..   Have made a breakthrough, of sorts..  I am not the only one who has.....

 

Impressive really, assume the thieves have overridden the immobiliser, used and crashed the bike, and now the original key wont work anymore..  would explain my difficulties!

 

 

 NC750-ECU.jpg 

  • Sad 2
Link to post
Andy m

Neat job. They usually drill a finger sized hole with a battery drill or shove a gas soldering iron in. Wasn't it nice of Keihin to mark the spot to drill/poke with their label 😖🤯🤬

 

Andy

  • Like 2
Link to post
  • 3 weeks later...

an update.  I bought the only suitable ECU (and lockset) on that auction site, and the dealer who supplied the bike gave me something towards the cost :) .  All works fine now! been up and down the private lane I live on a few times.  The bike is surprisingly pokey, more than I thought it would be.  I needed Traction Control, and it doesn't have it!

 

Now I am buying parts to fix the damage caused... luggage box itself is a little hard to find but the one I have is ok for now. :)

  • Like 3
Link to post

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...