Nc750x Valve Check

[Tiger800toNC750X 7]

Watched the youtube video's from 'Honda Africa Twin & NC750x Stuff' and, on the Valve adjustment at 80k one, noticed this critical comment from @mattyb 7736:  Remove the plugs next time. I've had people wheel bikes into the shop a month after doing a tappet check and not realising they had managed to loosen the crank bolt getting over compression. Riding along and the bolt walks out oif the crank and into the case. Oops. Use Hylomar blue on the gasket, never silicone as the Hylomar won't go solid and block oil galleries if you accidentally apply too much Looks like a well maintained and serviced engine, even accounting for the Richard cranium moments that I think we all suffer from occasionally. Spotlessly clean internally, well done

[Andy m 26,943]

How do you find TDC/Timing Mark's with the spark plugs in?

 

Andy 

[Tegraman 3,508]

This thread presents a world that I can't begin to imagine living in. I sympathise with those who are preveted from doing their own maintenence. One day I will work out how much I have saved over 50+ years of bike and car ownership, including cars of family members, by never having work done on them by others. 

To be honest, there have been occasions, I had some halfshaft bearings pressed onto a shaft on one occasion because my (then) press had been stolen along with other tools. Also, I do get wheels balanced after I change or repair tyres. I've also stopped changing cracked windscreens, due to now having arthritic thumbs. Bodywork and spraying I do myself, but I can't autoclave stuff so I manage without. Bike stuff is rare and trivial, mainly because this forum and others are great at flagging up bikes to avoid because of their insane complexity or ludicrous manufacturers repair-login malarky.

The saving I mentioned will be huge, I suspect that the figure will have lots of zeroes in it. Anyone prepared to have a guess?

[Slowboy 24,726]

2 hours ago, Tegraman said:

This thread presents a world that I can't begin to imagine living in. I sympathise with those who are preveted from doing their own maintenence. One day I will work out how much I have saved over 50+ years of bike and car ownership, including cars of family members, by never having work done on them by others. 

To be honest, there have been occasions, I had some halfshaft bearings pressed onto a shaft on one occasion because my (then) press had been stolen along with other tools. Also, I do get wheels balanced after I change or repair tyres. I've also stopped changing cracked windscreens, due to now having arthritic thumbs. Bodywork and spraying I do myself, but I can't autoclave stuff so I manage without. Bike stuff is rare and trivial, mainly because this forum and others are great at flagging up bikes to avoid because of their insane complexity or ludicrous manufacturers repair-login malarky.

The saving I mentioned will be huge, I suspect that the figure will have lots of zeroes in it. Anyone prepared to have a guess?

I’d never add it up, no point. Unless I’ve missed my guess, I’m like you, it’s not a chore it’s a pleasure to do the work. It’s not a competition with others or because it saves me money (never add the price of all the tools, the bike lift, the bits you tried that didn’t work etc of the time you spent doing the maintenance rather than something else) because that’s not why I do it.😂😂
 

I’m currently working my way through a number of upgrades to the new RE Inter. Moving the Reg Rect, removing the evap canister, cleaning the grease on the relays and adding high quality dielectric grease in a modest amount.

 

On a brand new bike with 3.7 miles that I won’t ride until March. Then there’s the luggage kit I’ve added, the satnav mount which is a cracking bit of engineering, the USB connection, the power split lead, a battery charging connection and my heated vest connector. 
 

It’s all modestly priced changes, some of which should have been done by the manufacturer, and have been on the Bear, some of which may never be a problem, but it’s better. When it’s finished, it’ll be my bike, not a bike and I’ll know my way around it. Once I’ve done the 300 mile service, I’ll really start to get to know it.

 

I’m currently debating the wisdom of buying a modern electronic analysis tool. I’ve used a friends occasionally and they’re invaluable on modern vehicles. Used well they’re a really useful diagnosis tool. None of this is rocket surgery, it’s just a different diagnostic approach. I already have a simple one for the Enfield which I know works, but a more sophisticated one would have its benefits.

Edited December 19, 2024 by Slowboy

[Steve Case 1,196]

This basically looks like buy new on pcp vs buy old and fix it... wasted argument in reality as exponents of either camp rarely change sides but will dabble either because its expedient or to prove they were right.

I have considered looking at pre injection bikes but the one worry i have is on cv carbs and ease of getting rebuild kits as a lot must be quite poor condition now.

[Andy m 26,943]

23 minutes ago, Steve Case said:

one worry i have is on cv carbs and ease of getting rebuild kits as a lot must be quite poor condition now.

Why? Carbs are much more complicated than your basic 1980's Bosch style FI. They also lack any form of inbuilt diagnostics. Not so bad when you can remove the Anal Monoflop from your 15HP 500 single with everything except the throttle cable in place, do plug chops etc. but a mess when the exhaust, airbox, fairing etc. has to come off to bend a bit of brass a gnats whatsit, rebuild and test ride, seeing if the disassembly has created more leaks and so forth.

 

Basic FI with the Bosch hand held tool or slightly more modern is way easier, just a different skill set. 

 

Parts availability is the same. An injector for a 1990's BMW Brick is going to be either NOS or good refurb from a decent distributor or knock-off just like a set of diaphragms for an 80's CB. The diaphragms are actually easier to pirate.

 

Don't fall for the old=simple BMWC/MGOC/REOC silliness. Putting a new battery in a Casio is far easier than fixing a spring in clockwork, plus the Casio was assembled by robots so far better quality.

 

Andy

[Andy131 1,786]

Long long ago, new technology was installed into cars and bikes to improve reliability / increase power / fuel economy benefit.

Who really wants to change capacitors and points every couple of months when CDI ignition gives a better spark and doesn't need looking at for years?

 

Lately this is not the case, new technology is being added because legislation says it has to be, this is actually reducing reliability in the name of climate change,

 

So you need to find the sweet spot, where reliability wasn't compromised by emmissions regulations.  Points No, electronic ignition yes.  Carbs on a multi-cylinder engine No, fuel injection Yes. Catalytic converter just No.  Modern tyres hell yes.  LED headlights No (looking at you Honda) Halogen bulb yes. Buying something that was only ever produced in low quantity (spares supply) No, produced in the millions yes.

 

If only I could take my own advice - currently the car has a VERY rare broken 4x4 system, knackered DPF / Adblue / EGR, and I would shove wasps up my own backs**e before getting rid.

[jeremyr62 3,407]

12 minutes ago, Andy131 said:

So you need to find the sweet spot, where reliability wasn't compromised by emmissions regulations.  Points No, electronic ignition yes.  Carbs on a multi-cylinder engine No, fuel injection Yes. Catalytic converter just No.  Modern tyres hell yes.  LED headlights No (looking at you Honda) Halogen bulb yes. Buying something that was only ever produced in low quantity (spares supply) No, produced in the millions yes.

Regarding bikes, that would be stuff from late nineties to mid noughties. Catalytic converters make me feel warm and fuzzy so I would disagree on that one. VTEC VFR800 from 2002 on fits the bill. Millions of em. Don't worry about checking the valve clearances either. If the engine blows up, just get another.

[Slowboy 24,726]

48 minutes ago, Andy m said:

Don't fall for the old=simple BMWC/MGOC/REOC silliness. Putting a new battery in a Casio is far easier than fixing a spring in clockwork, plus the Casio was assembled by robots so far better quality.

 

Andy

spot on Andy, and this from a mechanical watch owner……😉

[Slowboy 24,726]

Just to show I have a foot in both camps, a neighbour has recently left the area and while he was clearing out the garage he found an old seagull silver century outboard, the worlds simplest combustion engine. 😂
 

That’s a good little project for me for next year. 

[Trev 23,539]

1 hour ago, Slowboy said:

Just to show I have a foot in both camps, a neighbour has recently left the area and while he was clearing out the garage he found an old seagull silver century outboard, the worlds simplest combustion engine. 😂
 

That’s a good little project for me for next year. 

Don't tell me you're going to cobble it up to the Cub for an extra 1/4 hp on those uphill stints? 😉

[Slowboy 24,726]

1 hour ago, Trev said:

Don't tell me you're going to cobble it up to the Cub for an extra 1/4 hp on those uphill stints? 😉

It’s for my top secret sailing Cub project. I’ve already said too much…..😎

[Steve Case 1,196]

How about i've never owned an a/c 4 on carbs, early f/i was rubbish so would avoid.

So just fancy it.

I believe the late kwaks 1100 and fj12 were the best.

So hence the question cv carb rebuilds...

[baldric 2,735]

34 minutes ago, Steve Case said:

I believe the late kwaks 1100 and fj12 were the best.

Having owned both a ZRX1200 and two FJ12s, I have to agree.

[FurstyFerret 146]

On 19/12/2024 at 13:22, Tiger800toNC750X said:

Watched the youtube video's from 'Honda Africa Twin & NC750x Stuff' and, on the Valve adjustment at 80k one, noticed this critical comment from @mattyb 7736:  Remove the plugs next time. I've had people wheel bikes into the shop a month after doing a tappet check and not realising they had managed to loosen the crank bolt getting over compression. Riding along and the bolt walks out oif the crank and into the case. Oops. Use Hylomar blue on the gasket, never silicone as the Hylomar won't go solid and block oil galleries if you accidentally apply too much Looks like a well maintained and serviced engine, even accounting for the Richard cranium moments that I think we all suffer from occasionally. Spotlessly clean internally, well done

Can anyone elaborate on this? What's actually happening? 🤔 

[Johnnie Mototrans 3,287]

On 20/12/2024 at 10:19, Slowboy said:

Just to show I have a foot in both camps, a neighbour has recently left the area and while he was clearing out the garage he found an old seagull silver century outboard, the worlds simplest combustion engine. 😂
 

That’s a good little project for me for next year. 

 

How big is the seagull?

 

[Slowboy 24,726]

8 hours ago, Johnnie Mototrans said:

 

How big is the seagull?

 

It’s the small one, can’t remember the CC, but I think it’s about 100cc. The big cost will be getting the shaft cover rechromed, the rest is really simple, usually.

[ASB 25]

On 20/12/2024 at 10:11, jeremyr62 said:

Regarding bikes, that would be stuff from late nineties to mid noughties. Catalytic converters make me feel warm and fuzzy so I would disagree on that one. VTEC VFR800 from 2002 on fits the bill. Millions of em. Don't worry about checking the valve clearances either. If the engine blows up, just get another.

Oh dear, I remember doing the valve job.  Bike was off the road for 8 weeks and only a phone call to Green VFR (anyone remember?) got me going again.

[Harleyboy 62]

Late to the thread but have purchased a 25 model. I'm comsidering the service plans The £399 one includes the basics including a brake fluid change so 27 months of cover. But the coolant is schedule at 36 months/3 years. I recently did my CBx so will do this myself most probaly but buy product from a dealer so at least I can show it. Whether they or next owner would belief if was done who knows. 

 

I was then considering the "schedule plan" at £639 as it includes a valve check same 27 month period, great. Hang on there's a little bit which mentions the following: - 

 

If the service contains a valve clearance check, does this include adjustments?
The valve clearance check will be part of the service and covered by the Service Plan. However, any additional parts and labour
required to adjust the valve clearances (such as buckets and shims, etc), will incur an additional cost.

 

However I'm in discussion with dealer at the moment as I may not be at the 16k mark for the valve check say 12-14k in 27 months time. Therefore they would not check even if I asked them as it's included in the plan, hmmm. As I would probaly go for the schedule plan and hopeully pay £100-200 extra if shims/labour required to adjust or not. So long term possible £800-£900 for 3 years of servicing. If they agree then I'll make sure I get it in writing just in case.

[Slowboy 24,726]

55 minutes ago, Harleyboy said:

Late to the thread but have purchased a 25 model. I'm comsidering the service plans The £399 one includes the basics including a brake fluid change so 27 months of cover. But the coolant is schedule at 36 months/3 years. I recently did my CBx so will do this myself most probaly but buy product from a dealer so at least I can show it. Whether they or next owner would belief if was done who knows. 

 

I was then considering the "schedule plan" at £639 as it includes a valve check same 27 month period, great. Hang on there's a little bit which mentions the following: - 

 

If the service contains a valve clearance check, does this include adjustments?
The valve clearance check will be part of the service and covered by the Service Plan. However, any additional parts and labour
required to adjust the valve clearances (such as buckets and shims, etc), will incur an additional cost.

 

However I'm in discussion with dealer at the moment as I may not be at the 16k mark for the valve check say 12-14k in 27 months time. Therefore they would not check even if I asked them as it's included in the plan, hmmm. As I would probaly go for the schedule plan and hopeully pay £100-200 extra if shims/labour required to adjust or not. So long term possible £800-£900 for 3 years of servicing. If they agree then I'll make sure I get it in writing just in case.

No shims in an NC, screw and locknut valve adjustment only. Much simpler

[baldric 2,735]

In my view the service plans are way too expensive, and, as you have found, they only cover 27 months, not three years. Even if you have the servicing done by the dealer, it will probably work out cheaper for you to simply pay per service, that way you know what you are getting. If you feel that you need to be certain that you can cover the costs when they arise, then just stuff £30 or £40 a month into a savings account and forget about it until needed. And on the NC, oil and filter changes can be done by yourself anyway - just go to the dealer for something you don't feel comfortable doing yourself.

[Whysub 213]

The plan I purchased along with my NC (in Spain) is for 3 years/36,000 kms. It also extended the warranty period to 5 years

 

Took it in today for its 24,000 kms service (at 24,700 kms) and it will get a valve check. I can't pick the bike up until tomorrow, as they had to let it get cold to do the valve check. They have changed the air filter, the brake fluid and will d change the coolant too.

 

Had to have a new chain and sprokets fitted, as it was so loose, with no adjustment left. It did have a 9 inch tight spot too, completely shot. I put this down to my trip to the Sahara desert last year. Despite cleaning and lubing the chain every evening, sand still gets in past the O/X seals.

 

The dealer leant me a (1200kms old) Transalp to get around on. It seems to have a bit more power than my NC (ECU? Gearing?) and the supension seems better damped. It's nice, but I much prefer my NC, and am especially missing the dummy tank storage. I had to put things in my pockets!

[Whysub 213]

Been riding the TransAlp a bit today. A bit of research shows that it has around 90bhp, but as I just tootled it home on Friday, I wasn't aware. I thought it was an NC in different clothes, so more than ECU and gearing changes.

 

Its nice enough, but not a bike for me. I have a Himalayan 452 for going off on the gravel tracks (no mud here) and there are times when that feels too heavy.

 

Looking forward to getting my NC back tomorrow.

 

[FurstyFerret 146]

On 14/02/2025 at 16:20, Whysub said:

The plan I purchased along with my NC (in Spain) is for 3 years/36,000 kms. It also extended the warranty period to 5 years

 

Took it in today for its 24,000 kms service (at 24,700 kms) and it will get a valve check. I can't pick the bike up until tomorrow, as they had to let it get cold to do the valve check. They have changed the air filter, the brake fluid and will d change the coolant too.

 

Had to have a new chain and sprokets fitted, as it was so loose, with no adjustment left. It did have a 9 inch tight spot too, completely shot. I put this down to my trip to the Sahara desert last year. Despite cleaning and lubing the chain every evening, sand still gets in past the O/X seals.

 

The dealer leant me a (1200kms old) Transalp to get around on. It seems to have a bit more power than my NC (ECU? Gearing?) and the supension seems better damped. It's nice, but I much prefer my NC, and am especially missing the dummy tank storage. I had to put things in my pockets!

The trip to the Sahara sounds good, could you provide more details?

[Whysub 213]

3 hours ago, FurstyFerret said:

The trip to the Sahara sounds good, could you provide more details?

Cetainly.

 

I live in SE Spain, so I rode the 2½ hours to Almeria and got the  11.30 am ferry from there to Nador. Arrived in Nador just as it got dark, so stayed there. Watch out here, as loads of cars and motorbikes don't seem to have head or tail lights.

 

From Nador rode to Fez, none too taxing a ride as an introduction, and stayed overnight.

 

From Fez, set off south for the Sahara at Mergouza. Encountered rain, snow and Barbary apes over the Atlas mountains, before hitting a sand storm about 20kms from Mergouza. 

 

Mergouza has plenty of traditional Riads to stay in. Spent a couple of days there, doing all the desert-y things (quad bikes, walking the town and the dunes, etc, etc.). Also rode down to the Algerian border. At 9.3 million km², I still can't grasp how big the Sahara is.

 

From there to Ait Ben Haddou (many classic films have been made there), on to Tafraute, then Sidi Bibi, onto Ouzoud (highest waterfalls in North Africa), onto Meknes,  and then up to Chefchaouen (the blue city) on the north coast, then I rode backalong the coast road to Nador for the ferry.

 

A great round trip that avoids the bigger cities (seen one Moroccan market, seen them all in my eyes).

 

Morocco is a great place to ride around. Empty roads for miles, come into a small town  and its always hectic with cars, trikes and little red taxis until you get out on the other side of the town.

 

Petrol is easy to find, as are cheap hotels/apartments, and food, such as proper tagines which are very healthy. You can buy alcohol from some hotels and also in bigger towns from Carrefore supermarkets in their seperate alcohol sections.

 

The people are friedly, but in the tourist areas, where there are Berbers (if they are in fact Berbers) can hassel you to buy things from them. A firm "No", but not being rude to them worked ok for me. Be hesitant and they will keep on at you from what I saw.

 

I'm going back later this year, but using two wings, not two wheels. I really need a trip away from the bike in 2025.

 

 

Edited February 18 by Whysub