Question for those of you who adjust your own chain

[tc3 1,095]

If I do NOT undo the axel nuts but undo the chain retaining and adjuster nuts will I mess up anything? I ask as I want to replace the silver end cap with a modified piece. Will the chain tension remain the same once I put the piece on and screw the adjusting and locking nuts back in place? Hope this makes sense....

Edited September 13, 2013 by tc3

[Guest PCBlock]

 Those 'silver end caps' you refer to may be much more complex parts than you are thinking - assuming I have read your intentions correctly they are complex steel inserts which the axle passes through, page 18-2 of the workshop manual if you have it....

[tc3 1,095]

 Those 'silver end caps' you refer to may be much more complex parts than you are thinking - assuming I have read your intentions correctly they are complex steel inserts which the axle passes through, page 18-2 of the workshop manual if you have it....

Hi Peter I did see that in the service manual but was under impression the rear plate separates from the rest of the unit that the axel passes through.

[tc3 1,095]

Hmm considering that the bolt moves through it as you adjust chain i imagine it is a separate part to the unit. Still need to know if loosening and removing the chain tension nuts affects the chain tension if I do not undo the axel nuts

[tc3 1,095]

Ok so I now have an answer so this thread is now dead

[steelhorseuk 1,704]

Hmm considering that the bolt moves through it as you adjust chain i imagine it is a separate part to the unit. Still need to know if loosening and removing the chain tension nuts affects the chain tension if I do not undo the axel nuts

 

Tony, I am not an expert on this but in my opinion removing the chain tensioner nuts without releasing the axle bolt will damage your setup mate and you would have to re-adjust again correctly. I intend to have a look at it tomorrow as I am adjusting my chain in the morning as I have just completed 500 miles on a replacement chain.

[tc3 1,095]

 

Hmm considering that the bolt moves through it as you adjust chain i imagine it is a separate part to the unit. Still need to know if loosening and removing the chain tension nuts affects the chain tension if I do not undo the axel nuts

 

Tony, I am not an expert on this but in my opinion removing the chain tensioner nuts without releasing the axle bolt will damage your setup mate and you would have to re-adjust again correctly. I intend to have a look at it tomorrow as I am adjusting my chain in the morning as I have just completed 500 miles on a replacement chain.

 

Hi Mark I talked with someone who knows about these things and as long as you dont touch axel nuts and tighten the adjuster to same strength all will be good and chain wont be affected

[steelhorseuk 1,704]

 

 

Hmm considering that the bolt moves through it as you adjust chain i imagine it is a separate part to the unit. Still need to know if loosening and removing the chain tension nuts affects the chain tension if I do not undo the axel nuts

 

Tony, I am not an expert on this but in my opinion removing the chain tensioner nuts without releasing the axle bolt will damage your setup mate and you would have to re-adjust again correctly. I intend to have a look at it tomorrow as I am adjusting my chain in the morning as I have just completed 500 miles on a replacement chain.

 

Hi Mark I talked with someone who knows about these things and as long as you dont touch axel nuts and tighten the adjuster to same strength all will be good and chain wont be affected

 

 

Okay mate.  

[Guest granite]

I think I've read all the posts about chains. None of you mentioned a torque wrench. Honda manual says the axel nuts should be at 72 pounds. Obviously a torque wrench could be used. However I'd hate to pack the beast on a long ride. Do any of you: 1.) mark the hex nuts 2.) keep track of how many rotations to loosen the axel 3.) return the nuts to their original position. ?? That should produce the original torque.

I'd really like to hear views on this

[Guest esullivan]

My on-the-bike toolkit includes the tools I would need to adjust the chain (proper socket wrench with 27mm attachment, etc.), but not a torque wrench. It's way too big to carry with me. But I've done the chain enough times now that I have a pretty good idea of how tight to the axle nut should be. Tight, but not standing on the socket wrench tight. I should be able to undo it without a breaker bar, for example. 

On a weekend trip, if I found the chain really needed adjusting, I'd do it and then check the torque when I got home. I'm confident I could tighten it "close enough." The wheel won't fall off.

[Guest granite]

Esullivan thanks so much for the reply, I really appreciate it. You have obviously, "developed a touch" with the wrench. I think I'll do pretty much the same as you; in conjunction with keeping track of the amount of rotation of the axel nuts.

[Rev Ken 6,347]

'Feel' comes with experience, but if you use a standard socket and tommy bar then unless you stand on it you won't over torque it. It isn't critical and there is a wide 'tolerance' between being so loose the wheel will try to move forward against the adjuster nuts, and stripping the axle bolt thread!

[Dave D 567]

When I adjust the chain tension I count the number of visible threads on both adjusters to ensure that they are the same, that way the wheel should always be true. If I remember correctly, half a revolution on the adjusters take up about 10mm of play out of the chain. 

Edited September 26, 2013 by Dave D

[Guest chickenflaps]

As I've said elsewhere on this forum, 72lbs is very tight, more than I could do with the standard tool kit.  With a torque wrench, I put at least a third of a turn more on tightening the axle nut than I could manage with the spanner...beware.

[Guest esullivan]

As I've said elsewhere on this forum, 72lbs is very tight, more than I could do with the standard tool kit.  With a torque wrench, I put at least a third of a turn more on tightening the axle nut than I could manage with the spanner...beware.

Yes, the torque is too tight for the standard toolkit (a piece of flimsy something-or-other). However, it's not too tight for a quality socket wrench with a decent handle. I use a torque wrench and I can undo the nut with the socket wrench. I couldn't loosen it at all with the included toolkit.

[Guest granite]

Hey, these latest posts have been a big help to me.  The NC 700 is my first chain drive since 1980 (so my first O ring chain).  I have not had to adjust the chain at 3,900 miles.  On Oct 17 I leave Greensboro,NC for Key West Fla.  I'll bring the tools to adjust the chain, this includes an alignment tool.... but no torque wrench.

Thanks again, you guys are great.