Guest esullivan Posted September 15, 2013 Share Posted September 15, 2013 My 'S' has 9,600 miles on it or so and I noticed that the slack in the chain was about 2 inches (50mm) so it was time to adjust. This was the third time I've adjusted this chain -- the first time was about 3,500 miles in, although the dealer may have adjusted it at the 600 mile service. This time, though, I overtightened it and needed to loosen it up again, but not matter how I turned the adjusting nuts, nothing moved. The chain stayed tight as a drum. I made sure the spindle was good and loose (practically off). Finally, in desperation I gave the rear tyre a good kick and the wheel moved forward and I was able to get the tension reasonable. Has anyone else had this experience? Do I need to lubricate the adjustment mechanism? The adjusting nuts are tight on the chain side and very loose on the other (not really touching the end-plate), but the hash marks line up and the bike isn't steering funny. Is that usual? Should I tighten up the very loose nut so that it's at least holding the end plate on? I can't imagine it's actually do anything... Link to post
Guest CBR45 Posted September 15, 2013 Share Posted September 15, 2013 The adjusters pull, they don't push, so having to shove the wheel in is quite normal. There isn't really an adjustment mechanism, it's just the nuts pulling the spindle against the end plates. If you were to take the wheel out you can pull the adjusters out and you will see why they didn't push the wheel back in. If the wheel is straight and properly aligned, take up the slack on the loose adjuster. It will prevent the remote chance of the alignment shifting as the spindle isn't tied down so to speak. Link to post
Guest esullivan Posted September 15, 2013 Share Posted September 15, 2013 Thanks Paul. With all the adjusting/kicking I had to check the alignment with the hashmarks either side and by eyeballing it from the rear, but the alignment seems OK. I'll take up the slack on the loose adjuster. I don't want the end plate rattling around or letting road grime get in there. Link to post
chris 357 Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 If you need to tension the chain for adjustment one trick is to put an old screwdriver handle (or a piece of dowel) on the chain and rotate the wheel so it is pulled between the chain and sprocket - that will pull the wheel forward against the adjusters. Whilst the manual says that the marks on the swinging arm are ok for measuring wheel alignment I'd get a decent chain alignment tool. They don't cost much and I'm afraid the marks in the swinging arm are too crude to get alignment spot on. Link to post
Guest CBR45 Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 If you need to tension the chain for adjustment one trick is to put an old screwdriver handle (or a piece of dowel) on the chain and rotate the wheel so it is pulled between the chain and sprocket - that will pull the wheel forward against the adjusters. Whilst the manual says that the marks on the swinging arm are ok for measuring wheel alignment I'd get a decent chain alignment tool. They don't cost much and I'm afraid the marks in the swinging arm are too crude to get alignment spot on. Yep, agree with comments about the alignment tool. But I did find that the marks on my X were surprisingly accurate. First time ever though! Link to post
embee 7,288 Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 I checked my Integra against my usual straight edge tools and the adjuster alignment marks are pretty much spot on too. I always do a secondary check after adjustment by spinning the rear wheel (on centre stand!) and checking the chain is not trying to run hard to one side of the sprocket. If it's happy to run central within the clearances or not prefer one side or the other then it's going to be pretty much right. Link to post
Guest granite Posted September 24, 2013 Share Posted September 24, 2013 I think I've read all the posts about chains. None of you mentioned a torque wrench. Honda manual says the axel nuts should be at 72 pounds. Obviously a torque wrench could be used. However I'd hate to pack the beast on a long ride. Do any of you: 1.) mark the hex nuts 2.) keep track of how many rotations to loosen the axel 3.) return the nuts to their original position. ?? That should produce the original torque. I'd really like to hear views on this Link to post
Guest esullivan Posted September 26, 2013 Share Posted September 26, 2013 Granite, I answered your question in the other chain thread. Chris, CBR45 and embee: I bought an alignment tool and checked it this passed weekend. Spot on -- so the hash marks are pretty good (unusually). Link to post
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