Front forks NCS

[Guest GADGET]

This is a question for somebody who has the workshop manual. I want to remove the front fork tubes so I can check out the rust that seems to be present underneath the bottom fork bridge and at the same time slip on a pair of slider protectors and give the fork seals some help. What I need to know is the torque values for the upper and lower fork bridge clamping bolts and if they should have any thread lock? All the other torque settings I need are in the handbook.

[tc3 1,095]

Bottom bridge bolts
TORQUE:39 N·m (4.0 kgf·m, 29 lbf·ft)

 

and the top

TORQUE:22 N·m (2.2 kgf·m, 16 lbf·ft)

 

also if the fork cap is loosened tighten to the same as top bridge torque setting

[Guest GADGET]

Cheers Tony

[embee 7,288]

I took the legs out of my Integra a few weeks ago. The top caps were not very tight at all. When you have slackened off the top yoke pinch bolt, check the top cap tightness.

 

Note that the fork stanchions are a loose slip fit through the yokes, once you slacken off both top and bottom pinch bolts they will literally drop out, so make sure you hold them firmly when slackening the bolts.

 

If going to the trouble of dropping the fork legs, it might well be worth considering checking the steering head bearing adjustment and grease. Mine had a reasonable amount of grease (not as much as I like however), but the adjustment was not correct, the top bearing nut did have some preload on the bearing so was OK, but once I undid the tab-washer, the top locknut could be turned over half a turn before it nipped the washer.

 

Based on my Deauville manual (the bearings look the same), I applied 10Nm preload to the bearing before fitting the tab-washer and locknut. I tried 15Nm but I though that made them a little stiff. The bearing feels about right at 10Nm. Maybe someone with an NC manual could check what the preload toque should be? (Tony?   )

[tc3 1,095]

Not sure which you want so here is 2

 

Steering stem nut 

TORQUE:103 N·m (10.5 kgf·m, 76 lbf·ft)

 

 

 

Steering stem socket 

TORQUE:23 N·m (2.3 kgf·m, 17 lbf·ft)

Edited October 12, 2013 by tc3

[embee 7,288]

The 103Nm for the dome nut on the top of the yoke is the same as the Deauville. The bearing preload torque they give as 25Nm, essentially the same as your info.

 

For the Integra, I applied 10-15Nm to the adjuster nut which is directly on top of the dust cap (they call it the "top thread"), Once preloaded, you fit the tab washer then the locknut. In the Deau manual it says tighten the locknut no more than 90deg until the tab washer slots align.

 

On my NC I found 10Nm bearing preload torque felt right, 15Nm made it a little stiff in my opinion (remembering that the locknut actually increases the preload in the bearing by pushing the adjuster nut to the other side of the thread clearance). Remember that the actual load applied to the bearing for a given torque will also depend on the thread friction, a well greased thread will need less torque.

 

After tightening the locknut the manual shows a diagram with a spring balance pulling on a fork leg to determine the torque required to turn the steering. If outside the limits it says reset the preload, so I conclude the 23Nm is not necessarily hard and fast..

 

The force applied to the stanchion at right angles to the yoke is given as 1.04 - 1.46kgf (2.3 - 3.2 lbf), is there a similar diagram/figure for the NC?

 

The second picture certainly looks like it is the "top thread" nut, rather than the locknut. It'd be worth experimenting a bit, I suspect 23Nm preload might feel tight, but if that's what it says.........Try it a bit at a time, starting around 10Nm then working up and see how it feels.

 

The most important thing is that the bearing is preloaded so it can't "knock". Tapered roller bearings you adjust very differently, usually only just removing the clearance rather than actually applying preload, the design is different in the angle of the contact through the bearings themselves. Cup and cone bearings are usually much easier to get more or less right and tend to be a bit less fussy than tapered rollers, and will last fine proviiding they are greased and adjusted properly..

[Guest GADGET]

Thanks again for the information, once I pick up the bike lift I have bought, will get it done. That steering stem socket looks like a special monster though!

[embee 7,288]

I made a socket from a section of scaffold pole which I had laying around (as you do.............)

 

A bit of info on my thread here

http://www.nc700.co.uk/index.php?/topic/5119-steering-head-bearings-and-fork-oil/

[michael 324]

Murray! The most comprehensive and concise note on steering head bearings I've seen.