Chain Lubrication - This May Be Controversial

[Guest Southerner]

Like me, you might bounce between various types of chain lube – dry lube, wax etc. I’m currently using a chain wax in an aerosol from a main brand and the chain is just a sticky black dirty mess. I don’t doubt that it’s lubed ok, but it just looks sh1te and all that gunk is probably slowing me down and affecting mpg. I use a paddock stand for the job and make sure it’s applied evenly whilst the rear wheel spins at tickover pace in first gear.

 

We all know how good a sparkly clean chain and sprocket make you feel? Oh, maybe it’s just me then….

 

Now, two and three bikes ago I ran a Mk2 650 Versys and a Z1000. From the Versys forum I latched onto a thread concerning cleaning AND lubricating the chain using ONLY bog standard WD-40, nothing else.

 

I looked into this and had a go, if only just to get the chain and sprocket looking like new again  - they really did end up looking showroom clean without a lot of effort.  Subsequently I went to the next step and used WD-40 as the only lube for the next 5000 miles or so without any issues whatsoever – no tight spots or signs or wear over the two year period and a smooth quiet operation. A quick clean and reapplication each week or two was all it needed. I would have continued in this manner had I not sold the bike.

 

So, that’s what I’m going to do now with my X. Of course some on the forum were horrified at the thought and argued against it but there were a fair few who used WD-40 only with complete success and put forward good counter arguments on its suitability.

 

I’ll let you know how it goes.

[Guest EasyTiger]

AFAIK, those guys on the Versys forum are still using that method without problems...

[DMB 1,341]

I just don't understand this.  Surely it should be possible, given modern scientific methods, for it to be proven beyond doubt which types of chain lube work and which don't.  It shouldn't be necessary for so many bike owners to have to do the research themselves, ending up in the process with a shed full of half used cans.  Or am I missing something?

[TheEnglishman 401]

I just don't understand this.  Surely it should be possible, given modern scientific methods, for it to be proven beyond doubt which types of chain lube work and which don't.  It shouldn't be necessary for so many bike owners to have to do the research themselves, ending up in the process with a shed full of half used cans.  Or am I missing something?

 

 

You don't work in sales/marketing do you

[roddy 845]

I am in the middle of an experiment regarding lubing the chain. Someone at a local bike meet swore by lubing the chain with the runny scottoil that is used in the automatic oilers on his chain. He says it does not encourage that stickiness that comes with various sprays and is much easier to clean and clean the excess off the wheel rims.

 

I have been using it for about a month now and must admit I am a convert and my chain is looking good at 6,000 miles and with my bright orange wheels the excess is easily wipes off in a matter of seconds.

[roddy 845]

Forgot to add , I don't have a scott oiler but just manually lube the chain once a week or once every two weeks

[Guest Kildareman]

Loobman AB with anything I have that even vagly looks like oil it it, EXCEPT WD40.  It's good for Water Dispersent and cleaning but not much good as a lubricant.

[ste7ios 469]

WD-40 is not a lubricant! It may look like one but it's not.

Stay with standard spray chain lubrcation (O-ring compatible) or use a 70W-80W gear oil (it's very close to chain lubrcation like Scottoil, PDOil, etc. ).

With first you've to clean more often (but see Kettenmax) and with the second you have to lube much more often but less cleaning...

The best is to use a chain oiler. It will lube perfectly the chain and wash it too!

[Guest robson]

WD-40 is not a lubricant! It may look like one but it's not.

 

 

 

actually it is, among the other properties:

 

 

The long-term active ingredient is a non-volatile, viscous oil which remains on the surface, providing lubrication and protection from moisture.^[5] This is diluted with a volatile hydrocarbon to give a low viscosity fluid which can be sprayed and thus penetrate crevices. The volatile hydrocarbon then evaporates, leaving the oil behind. A propellant (originally a low-molecular weight hydrocarbon, now carbon dioxide) provides gas pressure in the can to force the liquid through the spray nozzle, then evaporates away.

These properties make the product useful in both home and commercial fields; removing dirt and residue, and extricating stuck screws and bolts are common usages, and it also loosens stubborn zippers. It is also useful in displacing moisture.

Due to its lightness (i.e., low viscosity), WD-40 is not always the preferred oil for certain applications. Applications that require higher viscosity oils may use motor oils, while those requiring a mid-range oil could use honing oil.^[6]

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40

Edited September 12, 2014 by robson

[Guest EasyTiger]

There are 302 posts relating to the use of WD40 on that other forum.

A typical seven-page thread is called "WD40 As a Chain Cleaner and Lubricant" or "WD40 Fans".

I can't imagine why you you think anyone might find this controversial, Southerner.

Edited September 12, 2014 by EasyTiger

[ScaredyCat 1,659]

I use Wurth - "High Performance Dry Chain Lube" every night when I get in from work, once^* round the chain.

^*I found putting a line of nail varnish^** on the chain makes it easy to spot when you've been round once

^** Not mine, just to clear that up.

[ste7ios 469]

actually it is, among the other properties:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40

The key word here is "low viscosity". Compare it with the viscosity of a 80W gear oil. And also it's not only the proper viscosity but all the additives that changes the properties of an oil.

[DMB 1,341]

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/

 

Have a look at this, if you haven't already.  Seems like bug*er all scientific research out there.  Up to the likes of you and me.  But interesting stuff, none the less.

 

I think I'll have to continue using neatsfoot oil on my chain, as well as my leather bicycle seat.  Hope the World doesn't run out of neats in the next year or two.

[Guest machinman]

I am having success with chain saw oil, 19,000 miles . No tight spots, no adjustments.

Just spray in with oil can sparingly, at the end if my commute I wipe off spray with 79p baby wipes I keep in the frunk, my only alternative would be gear oil. Hoping for 30,000 miles on original chain and sprockets.

[Guest robson]

I am having success with chain saw oil, 19,000 miles .

 

are you using same file for sharpening bike chain as well?

[Guest chickenflaps]

My two penn'rth - WD40 isn't meant for chain lube.  Get a Tutoro, fill it with 20-50 oil and Robert's your mother's brother.

[steelhorseuk 1,694]

I am having success with chain saw oil, 19,000 miles . No tight spots, no adjustments.

Just spray in with oil can sparingly, at the end if my commute I wipe off spray with 79p baby wipes I keep in the frunk, my only alternative would be gear oil. Hoping for 30,000 miles on original chain and sprockets.

 

Hi Stuart, are you serious? 19K with no adjustments or tight spots?? That is amazing. Hard to believe but amazing.

I use the specialist range from WD40 which include chain cleaner and Chain lube on my X-Ring VX2 and I thought it was doing well needing adjustments every 800-1000 miles.

I must be doing something wrong. mind you, I do ride the NC to its capacity. Guess thats it.. 

 

--Mark--

[ste7ios 469]

~20 months with Scottoiler eSystem, 20 months with no cleaning at all! It's always clean!

[Scootabout 2,267]

My guess about all this is this: O-ring chains have grease sealed into them, and that's what keeps the links mobile and flexible, if the chain is clean and not rusty.  Anything we add serves to either reduce wear a bit in the contact area between the chain roller and the sprocket teeth, &/or cleans out the build-up of crud from the road that, left to itself, might degrade the ability of the grease to do its job. And I suspect the latter matters more than the former.  So WD40 probably does the job quite well. 

 

FWIW, having joined the oiler camp (Tutoro) I won't be looking for any other solutions. 

[Guest scrumpymike]

Getting back to basics, the functional lubrication of modern chains is taken care of by the lubricant sealed in to the individual chain links during manufacture. The application of additional lubricant to the chain's exposed metal surfaces keeps it free from corrosion (which is unsightly and would ultimately compromise the functionality of the chain) and reduces wear of chain and sprockets at the points where they come into contact. There are two concerns about using WD40: one is that it is thin enough to penetrate the o-ring seals of the chain and dilute the sealed-in lubricant; the other is that it is not robust enough to significantly reduce chain and sprocket wear. Both of these seem reasonable to me and I personally wouldn't take a chance with it. The only thing in favour of using a very thin lubricant like WD40 is that you don't get a horrible claggy mess building up on your chain that combines with road grit to form a very effective grinding paste!! I guess "you pays your money and you takes your choice" but the key to success must be 'little and often' with WD-40 and regular cleaning/re-lubing with gear oil and (especially) chain lube.

[Guest scrumpymike]

Scootabout, sorry for repeating what you have already said but your post came in while I was thinking about/writing mine!!

[Scootabout 2,267]

Great minds thinking alike!

[Guest machinman]

Hi Stuart, are you serious? 19K with no adjustments or tight spots?? That is amazing. Hard to believe but amazing.

I use the specialist range from WD40 which

include chain cleaner and Chain lube on my X-Ring VX2 and I thought it was doing well needing

adjustments every 800-1000 miles.

Firm believer in keeping the chain "wet", however there is a "fling" issue though I don't mind.

I must be doing something wrong. mind you, I do ride the NC to its capacity. Guess thats it..

--Mark--

[Guest machinman]

Firm believer in keeping the chain "wet", though there is a fling issue with this method. I just inspect and wipe any splatter at the end of most commutes.

[Guest chickenflaps]

Hi Stuart, are you serious? 19K with no adjustments or tight spots?? That is amazing. Hard to believe but amazing.

I use the specialist range from WD40 which include chain cleaner and Chain lube on my X-Ring VX2 and I thought it was doing well needing adjustments every 800-1000 miles.

I must be doing something wrong. mind you, I do ride the NC to its capacity. Guess thats it.. 

 

--Mark--

My chain has now done 16,500 miles without adjustment and looks clean and damp simply by keeping the Tutoro oiler topped up.