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Chain and Sprocket Advice Needed


Guest Murcuseo

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Guest Murcuseo

My current chain is almost dead, what with it being stretched and slowly accumulating tight spots.

 

I'm looking to extend the gearing so the bike sits more comfortably at 80, with lower revs.

 

I hear a lot of talk about 520 conversions and the like, but really have no idea what people are talking about.

 

Can anyone give me some advice/guidance on what ratio to use and which chains are the best to run, please.

 

I don't have a limit to my budget at the moment as I have no idea where to start.

 

Thanks in advance.

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Replace with a DID X-Ring chain for the longest life, or any other name brand X-Ring. The chain is a 520, so no "conversion" needed. The NC is already geared very high, and at 80 mine sits quite comfortably. I recommend you stick with stock gearing, but if you realy want to mess with it go up one tooth on the front sprocket or down a couple teeth on the rear. Don't do both.

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Mike5100

My thanks to Graeme for asking the question I was going to ask.  I think he is referring to posts on here about fitting a wider chain - and presumably wider front and rear sprockets.  It would be good to hear feedback from owners who have done this.

And Todd - Are you saying that the standard Honda replacement chain is an inherently lower quality one than the DID X-ring chain (I think my chain on the 700X was a DID).  If you fit an aftermarket X-chain do you stick with replacement Honda sprockets?

Mike

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My original chain was DID and it lasted about 9k, and I was seemingly having to adjust it about every 1k miles.  The front sprocket had hooked up as well. Replaced it with DID 520VX2, a JT rear sprocket and a Honda front because I couldn't get a JT front. I have done 10k miles since then and adjusted it about 3 times.  Honda front sprocket is not hooked either.

Edited by shiggsy
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Derek_Mac

And Todd - Are you saying that the standard Honda replacement chain is an inherently lower quality one than the DID X-ring chain (I think my chain on the 700X was a DID).

 

 The standard Honda (replacement) chain is an O-ring chain, probably specified by an accountant.

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I've fitted a DID VX2 520 (standard size) like shiggsy, and after about 5k miles can thoroughly recommend it. Silky smooth compared to the original spec item and virtually no adjustment needed yet. I do have a PD Oiler fitted.

 

I got the chain from Buster's "auction site" shop, they also have their own website but it happened to be a few ££ cheaper on the auction shop, around £60 delivered I think. Try Wemoto and M&P for comparison too. If you have a centre stand, consider getting an "endless" chain (i.e. factory rivetted). This will save the hassle of rivetting it yourself or arrranging rivetting with a workshop etc. No special tools required to drop the swingarm out (necessary to fit an endless chain) just sockets/spanners/allen keys. It will also allow you to grease all the linkage bearings. That's what I would do next time it needs a chain, having taken the swingarm out once anyway it's pretty easy (if you have a centre stand).

 

Chain sizes are 3 numbers, the first is the pitch (distance between pin centres) in eighths of an inch, the next two numbers are the thickness of the sprockets also in eighths but with a decimal point omitted, so 520 is 5/8" pitch and 2.0 eighths (=1/4") thickness, a 635 is 3/4" pitch (=6/8") and 3.5 eighths = 7/16" thickness. Chains like wheel sizes are usually based on an old imperial sizing method.

 

The conversion people talk of is a 525, so 1/16" thicker than the standard item (2.5 x 1/8" instead of 2.0 x 1/8"). I don't think it's necessary with the VX2 chain.

 

I'd also tend to agree with Todd about the standard gearing, but if you want to up it then I'd suggest go one tooth bigger on the front, this is what the 750 has (17T vs 16T). I think the steel chain guide fitted to the sprocket cover will allow this, but check first. This keeps the chain loads lower than if you reduce the rear sprocket.

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