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what spare parts to get for my nc750x?


Guest robson

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I'm planning longer trip and I'd rather have some spare parts like e.g. fuses,

are they same kind as in a car size wise? What set to get?

Other then that I remember somebody suggested to get spare clutch cable, bulbs.

Anything else?

 

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I don't think you would need any. Maybe just a spare bulb for the front light and ... your credit card.

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Depends on where your going Robert , I believe you need certain items to comply with their road laws . France ask for bulb kit , hi vis vest etc. as with most of Central Europe , probably best look on aa site or such like and then get your bike serviced before you go .

Most important for me , as at this point you check and change to remove/lower chances of mechanical issue

This method and an insurance recovery policy has seen me through . Other then known faults it's a lottery for random spares. A friend has lost a water pump, another a chain , completely ruined the engine . A metal stay from a lorry trailor removed all the bottom of a zzr1100, so it depends on your destination , if you can get a spurious mechanical event fixed, credit card. if not trip advisor the local hotels :0)

Or poss buy a gs as they are everywhere so must be able to get spares from here to timbuctoo

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Or poss buy a gs as they are everywhere so must be able to get spares from here to timbuctoo

 

you mean like bmw gs?  no thanks...this would be like asking for trouble.

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Guest bonekicker

Robert just go it's all part of the great adventure, when or if a problem happens then deal with it, what will break? what will fail? you will need to carry a spare bike over your shoulder if you want to cover every eventuality, just check insurance cover and breakdown service cover and enjoy your trip to Blackpool they aren't as uncivilized as most people make out and they do speak a similar language when sober.

 

If you must take anything with you to Blackpool take a KISS ME QUICK HAT so that you fit in a bit faster. :thumbsup:

 

Or were you thinking of going somewhere a bit less exodic? and less challenging?

Edited by bonekicker
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its quite easy.if anywhere in the EU just get breakdown and "bike home if can't be fixed "cover.if outside Eu they will fix for peanuts as its third world.

my best was a flooded carb on a Africa Twin 100 miles south of Istanbul in 42oC.Opening the visor was like sticking your head into a hot oven! I went into a garage and shouted (in best English fashion)" anyone speak English? My (now lifelong mate) replied and we went to a small fix anything from lawnmowers to trucks chap who reset the floats with me "helping" .We didn't speak a word of each others language but carbs are multi lingual! I think it cost me £20.

So take your basic tools, maybe a puncture plug kit if you are happy to use one, and womble off!

bazza

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Guest bonekicker

Sensible advice as always Mr Bazza,Istanbul is Due North of Blackpool but not quite as adventurous, basic toolkit = Big box of condoms, Kiss Me Quick Hat, Umbrella,Lots of Warm Cloths and a sense of humor. :angel:  

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Sensible advice as always Mr Bazza,Istanbul is Due North of Blackpool but not quite as adventurous, basic toolkit = Big box of condoms, Kiss Me Quick Hat, Umbrella,Lots of Warm Cloths and a sense of humor. :angel:  

Wouldn't be brave enough to go there- I'll stick to Afganistan!

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Back to the original post..........................

 

What to take depends on where you're going, Do you need to be able to limp 30km to a town to get it fixed, or are you in the middle of nowhere in one of the "Uz-kyrg-kazak-stans"

 

Fuses are mini-blade. I used that auction site to get a selection pack, there are sellers who let you select which values you want, ten or twenty fuses usually cost a couple of euros/pounds. Look in the fuse box or manual to see what your bike uses. Reality is that it's pretty unusual to blow fuses if the wiring is in good condition. If the wiring gets damaged then a new fuse will also blow, you'll need to fix the fault.

 

As for spares, I only tour in civilised parts of Europe, so haven't been to Blackpool. I carry a selection of a few cable ties (lightweight, cheap, simple, multi-useful), a length of electrical wire (I've used it on other people's bikes in the past), an M6 and M8 nut and bolt of "useful" length, a spare headlamp/tail-stop/indicator bulb, a few strategic tools which will get to the usual fasteners (deep recessed ones like chain cover need a socket etc), some pvc tape, and a "wiggly-worm" type puncture repair kit (easiest type to get to work in practice). I took the insides out of a cheap 12V tyre compressor, but CO2 capsules are a good alternative, remembering you probably need 3 to get a rear tyre up to usable pressure. Watch the youtube vids to learn how to use the puncture kit before you go!

 

Best approach is preventive maintenance. Check everything over before you go, renew anything looking at all suspect. Check the bike over every day before you set out.  A spare clutch cable can be a godsend, but I don't carry one on the Deauville (nor the Integra!). Think about a fix for a broken gear lever, there are temporary bolt-on pegs available to allow you to bodge a broken lever, at least gets you to somewhere to do a decent fix.

 

A paper map, even just a large scale route planner with main roads only. Satnavs can let you down or get lost/stolen.

 

If you're going far afield I'd suggest checking the charging system before you go. A simple voltmeter will do the job. Check the battery terminals are clean and tight, adn on teh NC I'd suggest check the main earthing point behind the left panel just near the front of the seat.

 

Asses the chain and tyres, renew if they're not going to get you through the trip.

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.... and a box of party poppers and some candy floss.

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On top of the various other bits people have mentioned I always carry a spare clutch lever, most other bits that break can be bodged or managed without to get a bike moving again, but try without a clutch lever.

Riggo

Edited by riggo37
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Dct ? , spare gearbox anyone. So last year with the clutch lever how quaint

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Btw the gs reference was my attemp at sarcasm , next I'll try a Harley reference :0)

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Dct ? , spare gearbox anyone. So last year with the clutch lever how quaint

Yes Ask the older codgers about those- i remember when the rider could out accelerate an auto by overreving in the gears - not any more,his rev limiter would stop that nonsense. Apart from some off road experts i haven't heard of any reason that would make me "go back" to primitive manual (or is it footual) gear changing.Then there was the Hand Lever ones from the 1920's but even Mr Honda ( blessed be his name) wasn't about then!

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Wouldn't be brave enough to go there- I'll stick to Afganistan!

 

 

in that case I would rather take this bike with me...

 

Combat-motorcycle.jpg

 

:drool:   I'm not looking that kind of adventure to be honest.

 

I'm just going to north Africa, the worse they can use there are spears I believe ;)

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When you bought your NC750X did you remember to register the purchase with HondaCare Assistance, the complimentary roadside assistance, (including home start), for the two year extendable manufacturer warranty period? Remember to keep your owners card with you when you ride the bike as it shows the full details of the bike and the Honda Assistance freephone number (0800 521 728).

 

I also joined the member's area: www.Honda.co.uk/cem/start.htm by entering the URN and KEY, printed on the letter that came with the Owners Card, to log in to the website.

 

I have also found Honda Customer Services excellent in promptly dealing with a small query they quickly sorted out for me.

 

I also find it useful to carry a small LED torch on the bike, available from Asda and other shops for about £5. I keep my owners handbook and service book inside the special department at the bottom of the not-the-tank, in which the toolkit is also kept clipped to the door to the battery department.

 

 

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fred_jb

Dct ? , spare gearbox anyone. So last year with the clutch lever how quaint

Well I have a DCT, but rather than buy a single after market brake lever, I bought a matched pair of adjustable brake and clutch levers for pretty much the same price.   However there is method in my madness, as although the fittings are different, the actual levers are identical and removable so the clutch lever can carried as a spare brake lever.

 

Fred

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I'd defiantly take matched pistons and possibly a balanced crank , those fuzzy wuzzies don't like it up em you know.

Remember to take your malaria tablets and stick to the gin Robeson , blackpools a tough place

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Derek_Mac

Well I have a DCT, but rather than buy a single after market brake lever, I bought a matched pair of adjustable brake and clutch levers for pretty much the same price.   However there is method in my madness, as although the fittings are different, the actual levers are identical and removable so the clutch lever can carried as a spare brake lever.

 

Fred

 Arr but, will your unneeded clutch lever actually work the front brake?

  I suspect that it won't because the brake lever has a 'bit' that pushes on the piston going into the master cylinder, which the clutch lever won't have!  :ermm:

Edited by Derek_Mac
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fred_jb

 Arr but, will your unneeded clutch lever actually work the front brake?

  I suspect that it won't because the brake lever has a 'bit' that pushes on the piston going into the master cylinder, which the clutch lever won't have!  :ermm:

You are right that the two sides are different, but the ones I bought are made in two pieces, as are most adjustable levers.  The levers and adjuster bits are identical as far as I can tell, and the levers even have the adjuster scale markings on both sides which makes them usable on either side (which makes sense from a production point of view).   All the differences seem to be in the pieces which actually mount to the bike.  The levers and adjusters bolt on via a hinge pin on the outboard side of the part that connects to the bike.

 

Fred

Edited by fred_jb
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Derek_Mac

You are right that the two sides are different, but the ones I bought are made in two pieces, as are most adjustable levers.  The levers and adjuster bits are identical as far as I can tell, and the levers even have the adjuster scale markings on both sides which makes them usable on either side (which makes sense from a production point of view).   All the differences seem to be in the pieces which actually mount to the bike.  The levers and adjusters bolt on via a hinge pin on the outboard side of the part that connects to the bike.

 

Fred

 You obviously bought a more expensive OEM lever than I did ! :)

  I just bought OEM adjustable (front) brake levers from Wemoto. ( for about £15 or £16 )

 

Edit: spelling :(

Edited by Derek_Mac
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