Valve clearance info

[Crofty 119]

Has anyone done the valve clearances using the service manual. The manual says line up the camshaft cyl marks with the

upper cyl index line  but now I have the bike stripped down ready to set the clearances it feels like the marks 1t and 2t on the camshaft sprocket should be in line with the lower cyl index line.

The manual I have is the members one from here but it looks like the official Honda one. Any advice appreciated. 

 

 

[dandemann8 776]

[Crofty 119]

Thanks Duncan, I have looked at this video  at 4.14 he shows the 1 cyl mark lined up to the cut out but it is unclear whether this is the top or the btm cut out.  Have you done it using this video ?

Edited December 3, 2014 by Crofty

[dandemann8 776]

Sorry no, had it emailed to me from a fellow nc owner for future reference.

[Guest bonekicker]

Steve when you turn the engine just watch for the tappet to come off camshaft, tun it forward and back and you will see the correct open position and then check the marks on engine to double check. keep trying don't give up, if in doubt just check with feller-gauge, the blade should glide with a little resistance, also put a drop of oil on blade and rub it all over (blade not body) let us know how you get on.      

[Guest duk2n]

The manual I have is the members one from here but it looks like the official Honda one. Any advice appreciated. 

The PDF manual from the members zone is wrong. You must line up with the BOTTOM index line, not with the upper one. The printed manual from the video is updated this way

Edited December 3, 2014 by duk2n

[Crofty 119]

Bonekicker thanks for the tip,I have been turning the engine over and noting the valve sequence and figured it out but it did,nt agree with the manual.

 

duk2n  that is what I suspected but before I went ahead I wanted to check. Thanks for confirming that. In the Bottom index line position all the valve clearances are slightly tight but I would have expected that.  most inlets are .13mm ish and exhausts are .18 to .20 so tomorrow I will adjust them to the recommended .17mm and .28mm.  Many thanks for the help guys.

[Guest bonekicker]

 See what we can do between us on this forum, sort out problems, throw ideas around,tell stories, remember the past but look to the future, together we are strong   Never ever give up  leaning the hard way is allways remembered 

[Tex 36,817]

How many miles have you done, Steve?

[Crofty 119]

Hi Simon  I have done 16,000 miles

[Guest bonekicker]

Steve good on ya for keep trying and sorting the problem out and not giving up,(never give up)

 

Could you for the sake of any other member on forum post the info you have learnt, (too teach it a privilege)  

 

To save someone money is generous and worth it's weight in gold 

[Crofty 119]

Hi Michael

 I have learn,t not to take whats written for gospel (again) anyway after the problem with the manual was sorted out I adjusted the tappets (quite a few of them were tight) and boxed up the bike. The American NC700 site  (at least I think it is) has quite good photos and I would direct anyone to that site to supplement the manual/video info.

 

I needed a 16k service which is a valve check, air/oil filter oil change etc and the dealer quoted me nearly 300 quid I also needed a new chain etc and for that the dealer wanted over 200 to fit the lowest spec chain. I have spent about 200 plus on parts and the highest spec X ring chain plus 25 quid to get it

professionally riveted so a saving of about 300 quid and when I had the rear wheel off I greased all the suspension linkage checked the bearings and brake pads. took off the front wheel and forks to do the valves and checked the front wheel bearings and brake pads and the steering head bearings and after the valve work I checked the plugs and gave the engine a good clean and next week will do the oil and filter change. in the process I have got to know a bit more about the bike. I would recommended anyone with a little bit of mech knowledge to do the same.    

[Joeyjoejnr 96]

Im going to attempt the Valve clearance on the weekend of the 20th as im off work on a long weekend.  Its something I have never attempted before so im quite nervous about it.  The youtube video is good but I will need to do more research before giving it a go.

[djsb 493]

The hardest part is getting the marks lined up on the alternator cover (I didn't remove the camshaft cover when I checked mine as it tricky to get back on). When the piston is at TDC both of the rockers are loose. However you have to take notes of which valves have JUST opened and closed before TDC. So you keep and eye on both of the inlet valves (the ones at the top), watch them open and then close and then you check at the timing cover to make sure one of the marks (1t or 2t) lines up. You can also feel the increased resistance to the engine turning (which you are doing by hand) when the you have reached the compression stroke. Also both rockers should have the same sound when you tap them with your finger meaning they are bothe loose but the exhaust valve should be a bit looser than the intake valve. I t took me a full day to adjust mine as I really took my time a measure the gaps several time to make sure. I'll be starting the engine this weekend so hopefully it wont sound like a bag of spanners and need doing all over again.

Edited August 9, 2016 by djsb

[embee 7,288]

One tip to remember, when turning the engine, move it ONLY in the normal direction of rotation (which is the same direction as the wheels turn).

 

If you turn it backwards there is a risk that you can damage the cam chain tensioner. It's not a definite, but there is a risk, so err on the safe side. If it goes past the position you were after, resist the temptation to turn it backwards, instead go round again.

 

Also don't be tempted to try to use an open ended spanner on the locknuts. This will almost certainly damage them. Use only a ring spanner.

[Guest Hati]

Take out the spark plugs. Makes turning the engine a piece of cake and the socket for the plugs is in the tool kit that comes with the bike. At the same time you can take a look at electrodes for ware and discolouration. Use a 1.2 mm drill (the shaft part, not the cutting part) bit as a gauge. If it can't roll through the gap you are good to go.

 

One thing I didn't expect (mostly cause I didn't think about the positioning too much) was that you do all 4 valves for the cylinder you line up at once. I bought a dedicated set of feeler gauges that have the required sizes with individual handles so you don't need to keep flicking through the fold in set.

Edited August 9, 2016 by Hati

[glencoeman 129]

One tip to remember, when turning the engine, move it ONLY in the normal direction of rotation (which is the same direction as the wheels turn).

 

If you turn it backwards there is a risk that you can damage the cam chain tensioner. It's not a definite, but there is a risk, so err on the safe side. If it goes past the position you were after, resist the temptation to turn it backwards, instead go round again.

 

Also don't be tempted to try to use an open ended spanner on the locknuts. This will almost certainly damage them. Use only a ring spanner.

Just use a socket with a ratchet on the crankshaft nut set up to only work anti-clockwise. Then you can't turn the engine backwards. I agree - don't use open ended spanners on the adjuster locknuts. Edited August 10, 2016 by glencoeman

[Guest sykospain]

And as Hati suggests in his excellent post, take out the spark plugs.  When I used to do the tappets-check on the Beemers, the large-capacity motor meant that it was really hard to finely adjust the position of the crankshaft without being tempted to turn it 'backwards' and risk cam-chain cover breakage,  'cos of the cylinder pressures.

Removing the plugs made it a doddle.  And also why not get the Würth individual feelers - 17 and 28.  I got two pairs 'cos I found that as Chris Harris the USA wrencher pointed out, as you adjust one valve with the feeler in the corresponding one, it falls out if it's a feeler-gauge set, but not if it's the diddy Würth one in the colour-coded size.

[Spindizzy 7,109]

Rather than use timing marks you can take out the plugs and use a rod placed in the cylinder (yes make sure its long enough not to fall in and get lost). Then you can turn the engine and watch the rod reach TDC. If all the rockers are loose thats TDC on compression stroke. Its how we do it on aircraft piston engines prior to doing cylinder compression checks.

 

You know if you are 365 deg out as the exhaust will be open as the rod rises.

 

Or follow the book, probably wise

[larryblag 14,236]

I must say, I'm rather happy that we aren't having to mess about with shims on the NC

[Joeyjoejnr 96]

Some great tips. But some comments have raised my anxiety levels. I'll remove the spark plug if it helps. When it comes closer to the time I'll ask again if there is any part of the job worrying me.

[embee 7,288]

Definitely take the plugs out.

[Guest ram5]

have any valves had to be adjusted at 16000 or like other honda,s not needed till later milage

[Guest Hati]

Yup, 7 out of 8,mostly tighter than spec, but then I ended up doing all anyway to get the same setting. Huge improvement in acceleration and fuel consumption. At the same time I changed the "Honda" oil to Castrol Power 1 Racing 4T, so some of the improvement would come from this. The motor also feels smoother after the service, even my pillion in a million commented on that.

[Crofty 119]

The tip about removing the spark plugs is helpful, also having a ratchet set up to only turn the engine anticlockwise. I have done mine twice now, and they were a bit under the spec. I suppose that's to be expected with valves wearing the seats and closing the gap. Last time I did them at 24k they weren't out by much but I set them with a light drag on the feelers as I intend to extend the interval to 12k. Off on a 6k trip on Friday so we will see how they are when I next look at them in October.